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Reopening the Row – but the service will be tailored for safety

With stores expected to begin reopening next week, the country’s top tailors have been preparing for life on what be a very different Savile Row, writes Richard Burton and William Field.

Given the almost unique challenges they face in a world governed by social distancing, many have had to rethink how they will do business. Some have already been adapting to post-Lockdown life by turning to virtual consultations and considering extended opening hours – including Sundays – to allow a safer flow of customers. Home visiting services may become another reality.

Virtual fittings have been taking place successfully at Huntsman for the past few weeks, particularly for overseas customers, according to Taj Phull, brand development manager, who points out that “the keen eye of our cutters will be more valued than ever”.

Kilgour and Lee Marsh have managed to diversify their business with the help of Zoom calls. Smaller shops such as Norton and Sons are planning to maintain their strict “one customer at a time” rule with staff in PPE and many will be offering fittings by appointment to manage footfall, offering hand-washing stations and providing staff and clients with masks. Huntsman is even advertising masks online in their exclusive house tweeds.

While conducting fittings online can be tricky, I am able to fulfill repeat orders, make garments – and educate students

Lee Marsh (pictured above) admits it’s been a challenge. “You need to feel the cloth during the fitting for it to be properly bespoke,” he says. “It’s not easy seeing colour on a phone or tablet.”

But he adds: “While conducting fittings online can be tricky, I am able to fulfil repeat orders, make garments – and educate students. That’s because we both work from the same jacket and cut from the same pattern. That way they can follow exactly what I’m sewing in the same places.”

Tools to the trade now stretch beyond shears, thimble and thread. Camera extensions for laptops or phones are essential for Marsh, enabling him to guide them through each stitch.

There’s another advantage. Not only can the students easily recall this information as all sessions are recorded, but such digital tutoring also trims-down the unnecessary travel time – and cost, something some students have found problematic in the past.

“I can also mitigate any unnecessary teaching time,” he said. “For example, comparatively traditional apprenticeships have the student doing pad stitching [a labour-intensive hand-stitching technique] for over five months before they move you on to the next stage.

“Whilst this is important for several reasons, technically, the student doesn’t need to be there if I’m supervising from the other side of the screen.”

Alex Lamb of Kilgour, which had been forced to close its flagship store shortly before the pandemic, said: “Online consultations are a great way to conduct multiple meetings, especially with existing customers based overseas. Customers have been happy to receive cloth samples by post following the online consultation.

“We’ve had great support from British mills who have been operating skeleton services so that they can continue posting out samples to customers on our behalf.”

Whilst conducting fittings in the middle of the shop isn’t ideal, we will encourage it if the customer feels comfortable in doing so

As for those first-fittings, Lamb adds: “We’ve bought a lot of PPE equipment, which is due to be delivered shortly, to enable us to get back in front of customers safely.

They have even crafted their own tailored overalls that will need to be changed between customer fittings, in addition to protective visors and masks.

“It’s been reassuring that customers have been purchasing vouchers online. They can put digital deposits down for bespoke suits which gets cash into the business – a bit like a bond. This helps the workshop keep moving too.”

William Skinner of Dege & Skinner, one of the last remaining family-owned independent shops on the Row, said: “From the word go we relocated coat makers to home and provided sewing machines and steam irons.

“Cutting is more challenging, as the table needs to be longer and taller. Our cutter has been coming into the Row occasionally to keep things moving by mitigating as much risk as possible, but trying to maintain a modicum of normality.”

This essential part of the process is then distributed between the coat makers working from home.

“Looking forward, we will be opening – as such, by pre-booked appointments only meeting one customer at a time. We will be actively adhering to all government guidelines, including our staff wearing PPE during fittings.”

Skinner adds that they will also be operating a skeleton service of team members in support of maintaining a safe distance.

“Whilst conducting fittings in the middle of the shop isn’t ideal, we will encourage it if the customer feels comfortable in doing so. As a family-owned business, we pride ourself on looking after our staff and customers. These are challenging times, but we will come out of it.” Others have been using the Lockdown as a time for reflection. Richard Anderson has been looking at new Autumn designs and Henry Poole is working on releasing an “entirely new concept” that will diversify its collection. Simon Cundey tells visitors to his website: “I will be back in touch very shortly with exciting details and news of superb offers on our new range of lightweight summer fabrics and our online swatch service.”

Cad & The Dandy are operating a strict diary system to control the flow and plan to take advantage of their dual entrances and have even repositioned their cutters’ and sales staff’s desks to ensure distancing. They will be sharing parking locations ahead of bookings as they expect many customers will be travelling by car.

Both tailors have been aiding the Covid-19 effort by having their cutters produce PPE equipment following requests from hospices, ICU nurses and GP’s general practitioners.

Others have been using the Lockdown as a time for reflection. Richard Anderson has been looking at new Autumn designs and Henry Poole is working on releasing an “entirely new concept” that will diversify its collection. Simon Cundey tells visitors to his website: “I will be back in touch very shortly with exciting details and news of superb offers on our new range of lightweight summer fabrics and our online swatch service.”

Shaun Brennan, a local tailor, adds the final word, echoing a sentiment shared by so many of his colleagues: “If there’s one fortunate thing to come out of this global pandemic, it’s the shift in spending habits”, he adds. “There’s a renewed focus on long-standing value, local buying, and sustainability”

27th May 2020

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With stores expected to begin reopening next

Accessories

Kilgour closes iconic showroom

Kilgour has closed its flagship showroom on Savile Row. Passers-by were surprised to see equipment, including sewing machines, on the steps of the flagship store as it was being emptied at the end of last month.

This week, the doors remained locked with a sign telling visitors to contact the law firm Critchleys for further information.

The company blamed “challenging trading conditions in the bespoke clothing market” and cited, specifically, “supply-chain issues affecting the delivery of garments to and from markets in the Far and Middle East that seem unlikely

But it insists it will continue to operate and is contacting customers to make arrangements to fit and deliver clothing orders currently in hand and to take orders for new garments.

It is known as a heritage brand with strong values and not one scared to take on a modern approach, writes William Field.

A streamlined ready-to-wear aesthetic made the old school way using proper materials, including British wool (supporting British textile industry and campaign for wool), they have also been great supporters of the BTBA (British Tailors Benevolent Association) and have coached numerous apprentices through their careers, including the current cutter of Huntsman “Campbel Carey”

The company’s roots can be traced back to the 1800s although in more recent times its reputation has been shaped by its links to Hollywood’s best-dressed.

Recent modern patrons include: Benedict Cumberbatch, Jason Stratham, Luke Evans and Daniel Craig. It has been Hollywood go-to outfitter since the golden days.

Originally known as Kilgour & French when tailors AH Kilgour and TF French united in 1923, its biggest claim to fame was providing the tailcoat for Fred Astaire in Top Hat in 1935. The likes of Louis B Mayer, Rex Harrison and Cary Grant followed.

4th March 2020

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Kilgour has closed its flagship showroom on

Lifestyle, Travel, Wine

A long weekend in…The Rhône Valley

Rhône Valley reds are easy to love. In the north, spiritual homeland of the Syrah grape, wines are brooding and silky with characteristic notes of violets, herbs, plums and grilled meat. In the ‘blender’s paradise’ of the south, Syrah is just one of a trio of grape superstars, sitting majestically alongside Grenache and Mourvedre as the three kings of most blends, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape (the most famous wine appellation in the southern Rhône). Follow Helena Nicklin as she sets out a 4-day itinerary starting from Lyon for enthusiasts to savour the best of food and wine in the Rhone Valley

Rhône is one of the three most revered French wine regions and yet when you travel there, it doesn’t feel like ‘wine Disneyland’ in any way. It’s super easy to drive around and there’s no need to find highfalutin food establishments to drink the best wines. In fact, the Rhône is where you can put together a picnic from the most incredible fresh food markets you’ve ever seen then head to the hills with a great bottle. Do this at least once with some good friends and have the most memorable food and wine experience ever. Having said that, there are some fine dining establishments that alone are worth the plane ticket. My suggestion would be to go for a long weekend and do a bit of both. I know this, because I just came back from doing precisely this with another foodie couple. There are many ways you can do a long epicurean weekend in the Rhône Valley, but here’s one itinerary that’s tried and tested…

Helena with Patrick Henriroux

Thursday: Fly into Lyon from London, to arrive late morning. Pick up a hire car (nice and simple here) and drive for 30 minutes to La Pyramide: a 4-star Relais & Chateaux hotel with impeccable service, a bistro for easy-going meals and the unmissable icing on the cake: Patrick Henriroux’s 2-star restaurant. Leave the car here, unpack and get a cab five minutes down the road to Bistro de Serine for light-ish lunch. This is a cosy bistro with a great outdoor space and a view of the vineyards in Ampuis. It also has pretty good, affordable food and an epic wine list. Do with this last bit of information what you will. It is around Ampuis that some of the greatest Rhône wine producers are located (think Guigal, Ogier, Rostaing, Gerin). Tastings at these places are often by appointment only but the prices for their wines in Serine’s enoteca are sensible enough to buy some to try at your leisure. Take a little walk, get a cab back to La Pyramide where you can freshen up, have a stroll and be back in time for a cheeky little Viognier in the garden before your 2 Michelin star meal.

Friday: You won’t really be hungry but the breakfast at La Pyramide is photogenic and completely delicious. There are lots of little quirky homemade bits of this and that, from tiny cakes to mini cheese plates, bread, omelettes and edible flowers. After breakfast, jump in the car and take a slow drive (1hr ish) down south to Valence in the Drome, perhaps stopping off to take some photos of the iconic vineyards of Condrieu, which produce world famous Viognier-based whites. Carry on down to Valence, a delightful town with authentic, French shopping, stunning views of the gorges and an old town where you can get lost in the rickety, narrow streets looking for pretty little churches, art galleries or a cosy spot for a cool beer. In Valence, there are plenty of charming, low key eateries serving tagine, pizzas, fish… whatever takes your fancy. There are also plenty of decent, basic hotels that over deliver for the price, such as the Hotel de France, where we stayed. This place was central, with its own car park and we could walk to the old town in five minutes. You’ll probably want to reign it in a little bit during the day because in the evening, you could find yourself at the 3-star restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic at Maison Pic, just down the road. Now, this was an experience. Anne-Sophie Pic’s dishes are so delicate and beautiful, with Japanese influences. This restaurant has been awarded 3 Michelin stars since 1933 and remains a fabulous gastronomical experience that’s best not rushed. You can stay here too in the beautiful hotel rooms if you’re feeling flush.

Saturday: Chances are, you will be feeling the need to eat simply today and Valence is the best place to do that. After breakfast, head out for a stroll to take in the sights. Every Saturday morning in the centre of the old town, there is the most gorgeous food market. Full of locals buying their weekly fare rather than tourists, you’ll see the plumpest red strawberries, tomatoes bigger than your head, fresh bread, crazy cheeses, dried fruits, charcuterie and more. This is where you can stock up for a picnic. Check out and take your goodies to the car to drive back up north towards Lyon. On the way, there is an unassuming, pretty little town called Tain, that red wine lovers will get very excited about. When there, look up to the hills full of vines. You might just be able to make out the tiniest of chapels. This teeny building is ‘La Chapelle’ of Hermitage wine fame and the vines surrounding it make some of the best red wines on the planet (look for producers Jaboulet, Chapoutier and Chave). You can drive the zig zag routes through the vines to get relatively close to La Chapelle for your picnic. From here, you can see the whole of the Rhone Valley with vines and the river in the foreground. There is no better place to feast on the simple delights you brought up with you from Valence.

Make your way slowly back and hop into the car to head back up to your hotel in Lyon. An evening stroll pre-dinner through Lyon’s old town is an absolute must before a typically French bistrot meal such as Daniel et Denise at the top end or the simpler Café Comptoir Abel.

Sunday: Lyon is a great place to explore briefly or all day. If you have some time before your flight, the Roman Theatre of Fourviére is an interesting stop as is the famous 17th century Musée Des Beaux-Arts, but even just walking around is an absolute delight.

The Rhône Valley is the wine and food tourism road less travelled and it’s so easy to do. I’m going back for more in the Autumn and suggest you do the same.

Helena Nicklin is an award-winning drinks writer and presenter of The Three Drinkers TV show on Amazon Prime. Tweet her @thewinebird or @the3drinkers of find her on instagram @winebird @thethreedrinkers

3rd February 2020

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Rhône Valley reds are easy to love.

Dining, Events, Launches, News

How Savile Row gained its own gin brand – an interview with founder Stewart Lee

Gin is the quintessential London drink and Savile Row Gin embodies the classic style of the capital, so to combine the two creates a product that just oozes elegance and crafted excellence. But the exquisite union nearly didn’t happen. Tim Newark meets Savile Row Gin founder and CEO, Stewart Lee

I had a heart stopping moment,” says Savile Row Gin founder Stewart Lee. “The whole project depended on getting the whole-hearted support of Savile Row tailors. At lunch at Brown’s I told Angus Cundey MBE about it, and for the longest ten seconds of my life, he took a deep pause…”

Affectionately known as the “Godfather of the Row,” Mr Cundey is Chairman of one of Savile Row’s most prestigious and original tailors, Henry Poole & Co. “He cocked his head to one side and then said yes, he thought it was a wonderful idea.”

It was only fitting then that I should interview Stewart Lee at Henry Poole to get the inside story of the exclusive coupling, surrounded by portraits of historic clients, including Sir Winston Churchill, and a framed facsimile of a cheque signed by author Charles Dickens for £15 of tailoring. A bronze imperial French eagle happens to hang behind the counter, a gift from Emperor Napoleon III, who was their first royal client when they opened their shop in the vicinity in 1828.

Founder Stewart Lee: brand enjoys a unique personality

“As publisher of Savile Row Style magazine, I’ve worked with the Row for many years,” says Stewart. “It was important I got the support of several prominent members of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, including key figures like Angus Cundey. I was determined to uphold their values of quality, their appeal to the public, and, of course, promote bespoke men’s tailoring. I think my magazine work enabled me to gain their trust for this new venture.”

Distilled in traditional copper pots under the expert eye of award-winning distiller Rob Dorsett, Savile Row Gin is a blend of 12 botanicals, with traditional juniper matched with the freshness of coriander and a unique citrus hint of kumquat. A key part of its distinct character is its witty glass design.

“You look at the bottle and you can see the broad shoulders narrowing down like a suit. You might think it would be easy choosing a bottle but we saw it as vital way of establishing the unique personality of the brand.” Next came the label.

“We used a Goudy Old Style serif font which is very much going back into the heritage of Savile Row. Then we thought about what does every Savile Row tailor possess as the distinctive tool of their trade? We thought scissors but then, of course, crossed needles and thread came to us and we’ve picked them out in gold foil on the label. We worked with top designer Micha Weidmann Studio to ensure the bottle epitomises Savile Row, not too loud, very stylish and elegant. We are very proud of that branding.”
The association will be further enhanced when bottles are wrapped in a gift bag packaging made of Winston Churchill pinstripe cloth cut and designed on Savile Row. On that detail alone, I can see it becoming the perfect present for any admirer of the great man.

Already, Savile Row Gin has attracted several key partners including Jack Barclay Bentley, Bonhams, and London Fashion Week Men’s, operated by the British Fashion Council. “Savile Row is an iconic brand and we want to work with other iconic brands in the area,” says Stewart.

Indeed, the gin’s first exposure to the public was at LAPADA, the high profile art fair in Berkeley Square in Mayfair. “I couldn’t believe my luck,” he recalls. “At first they said no way, they knew me but they didn’t know the gin. I’ve been the publisher to LAPADA for 15 years, producing their official catalogue before they were even in Berkeley Square. I gave them a nudge and nothing happened, then about four weeks before the fair they phoned me up and said though they’d not tasted it yet, I’d produced good publications for them and they trusted me to produce a damn good gin too!”

Stewart had the gin sponsorship for the fair and it turned out to be a gamble well worth taking.

“The immediate response to the drink and brand was fantastic. You’re always worried that you’ll see half-full glasses lying around, but everyone loved it and wanted more. We were delighted and deeply privileged to be launched there in the heartland of Mayfair in Berkeley Square, one of the most iconic squares in London and very fitting for Savile Row Gin”

Since then it has been served at leading events, including a drinks reception at Kensington Palace. “For our gin brand to be served at a royal residence was a real honour.”

David Gandy: the brand’s ambassador

As a publisher, he produced the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee official programme in 2012.

For Stewart, it is the realisation of a personal dream. “I was out with some friends and must admit it first came to me one evening over a few gin and tonics,” he laughs. “I’ve always loved gin and there are some amazing gins out there. It was just that eureka moment.

“My whole career has been in magazine publishing and I’ve felt for some time that I was looking for a new challenge. With my business experience and contacts, I felt I wanted this to be something social, something fun. Something I could grow and work with friends and business partners and they have already contributed valuable advice.”

Top male model David Gandy is a partner in the business and is lending his elegant good looks to promoting the drink, while fashion guru and style consultant Robin Dutt immediately appreciated the special combination. “Savile Row Gin has been specially crafted as a suit of quality must always be,” he notes. “A Savile Row suit is unique and Savile Row Gin has a distinct hallmark when it comes to an individual taste.”

Part of its genius is that it feels as though it has already been around forever.

“Savile Row as a moniker of sartorial elegance goes back over 200 years and is respected the world over,” says Robin. “Every tailor is unique and all are part of the Savile Row family.”

Stewart agrees. “A Savile Row suit will last a lifetime. I was once talking to Michael Skinner, Chairman of Dege & Skinner and he opened up his suit jacket and proudly showed me the label dating back to 1975. It looked as good as if it had been made yesterday.”

Dege & Skinner recently celebrated its 150th anniversary, tracing its history back to Jacob Dege, a German immigrant who came to London in 1855, quickly building a fine tailoring business in nearby Conduit Street. His son then met a young Englishman called William Skinner, whose family was trading in Jermyn Street and a tailoring legend was established. Just as Savile Row can trace its history back over centuries, so can gin. Originally distilled in Dutch cities in the 16th century, it became a quick favourite with English soldiers who liked a sip of it before battle, hence the phrase “Dutch courage”.

When Dutch King William became a British sovereign, gin became a fashionable drink in London. So much so that 7,000 gin shops rapidly opened across the capital in the 18th century. When a gin tax was imposed, there was rioting in the streets and the duty was later reduced.

Gin is still a vital part of Brand UK, just like Savile Row. “So highly regarded is this street around the world, that in Japan a suit is apparently referred to as ‘Sebiro’,” reveals Robin Dutt, “a delightful accolade.” Henry Poole and other tailors have already opened branches in China and the growing Asian market. Stewart must be hoping his gin literally follows suit.

He added: “The idea is to start in the heartland in Mayfair but then appeal to people across the country and then hopefully around the world—why not?”
The British Empire originally helped spread the classic pairing of gin and tonic. In tropical colonies, the anti-malarial quinine was dissolved in carbonated water to make tonic water.

For the perfect gin and tonic, Stewart recommends combining 50ml of Savile Row Gin with 150ml classic Indian tonic water, finished off with a slice of pink grapefruit and a mint leaf. “You could almost call it tailored perfection,” he quips. “Our gin is very smooth and I believe it’s a very good sipping gin as well.”

3rd February 2020

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Gin is the quintessential London drink and