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Pictures: Rikesh Chauhan

Bespoke tailoring houses, accessories and cloth merchants from Savile Row and surrounding streets collaborated with Eco-Luxe to create an innovative luxury cloth made from textile waste. The new grey herringbone luxury cloth and the garments made from it were revealed at Holland & Sherry (31 Savile Row) and at Campaign for Wool pop up on yesterday in celebration of Wool Month in October.

The tailoring houses on Savile Row have always strived towards sustainable methods in their craft, with recycling, repurposing and amending as some of their core values. Eco-Luxe takes these efforts a step further by collaborating with Savile Row companies on producing bespoke garments, accessories and textiles from recycled wool cloth made entirely of wool off-cuts. Bespoke tailoring houses, accessories and cloth merchants from Savile Row and surrounding streets that have taken part in this ambitious and important project include Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Henry Poole & Co, Richard Anderson, Dege & Skinner, Kathryn Sargent, Holland & Sherry, Arthur Sleep and Pickett London.

Spending months collecting the tailors excess fabric cuttings, Eco-Luxe founder Su Thomas collated over 200 kg of textile waste to ‘kick start’ the bedding-in of the first ‘fibre opening’ machine in the UK at iinouiio. It was then sent to iinouiio Ltd to convert the waste pieces of cloth into a yarn, before being woven into cloth at Woven in The Bone, a micro mill in Scotland. The project has so far resulted in 36 metres of grey herringbone luxury cloth, the first of its kind used in Savile Row tailoring. It’s truly a step forward to a future with zero-waste tailoring and highlights the tailor’s recognition and importance of reducing textile waste that goes to landfill.

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Pictures: Rikesh Chauhan Bespoke tailoring houses, accessories and

Jack Barclay Bentley’s partnership with Huntsman has taken its next step forward with two new exclusive designs for 2023. Created with the Bentley Mulliner bespoke division, the limited edition Bentayga and GTC models are a union of two of Mayfair’s most prestigious heritage brands. The Bentley Bentayga and Continental GTC Huntsman Edition feature bespoke interiors inspired by the sartorial heritage of the renowned Savile Row tailoring house. Huntsman Head Cutter and Creative Director Campbell Carey worked closely with Jack Barclay Bentley and the design team at Mulliner to carefully translate Huntsman’s 174 years of bespoke heritage into the design.

Campbell Carey was delighted by the collaboration: “It is with great enthusiasm that we reignite our celebrated partnership with Jack Barclay with two new Huntsman models. As Huntsman’s Head Cutter and Creative Director, it’s always a pleasure to work alongside bespoke craftspeople within other industries. In collaborating with the design team at Bentley Mulliner we have created an exclusive collection of cars that reflect the iconic style of Bentley and Huntsman and bring a harmonious balance of sartorial flare and luxury with world-class engineering and innovation.”

These models have been tastefully furnished with Huntsman DNA. Signature cloth design features throughout both vehicles, with upholstery in the Huntsman charcoal four-point star design, contrasted with honeycomb cross stitching. The Huntsman logo and the signature ‘H motif can be found embroidered in the headrests, and embossed on the kick plates, with even the keybox receiving a custom treatment; inlaid with tweed and stamped with the Huntsman logo.

Jack Barclay Bentley – now operated by the HR Owen Group – was established in Mayfair in 1927 by famous ‘Bentley Boy’, Jack Barclay, just eight years after Huntsman arrived on Savile Row, a stone’s throw from the showroom. The two brands share mutual values of bespoke, exemplary customer service and a quest for perfection, and these two latest creations celebrate those values.

Ken Choo, H.R. Owen CEO said: Jack Barclay Bentley and Huntsman Savile Row are two Mayfair institutions, built on world-famous customer service and a bespoke product that defines luxury. The collaboration between our two names, with the help of Mulliner, is a natural fit and the latest evolution in our partnership. The Huntsman Edition cars are rare and beautiful, and only available to our customers.”

The new models debuted during the Concours on Savile Row in May, with both vehicles on display for the first. Every Huntsman Edition car – whether Bentayga or Continental GTC – comes with a bespoke Huntsman jacket for the owner, created in one of Huntsman’s exclusive house cloths. Customers will be invited to visit Huntsman’s premises on Savile Row to choose their cloth and undergo a measuring session to ensure their jacket is crafted to their requirements.

The Huntsman Edition cars are the next milestone in the ongoing partnership between Jack Barclay Bentley and Huntsman. In 2019, the brands launched a limited edition Bentayga, with buyers able to choose between ‘The Sportsman’ or ‘The Businessman’.  Both featured a distinctive Peck 62 tweed throughout the interior, which was exclusively created in celebration of Huntsman’s Centenary year and inspired by an original Gregory Peck coat from the Huntsman archives.

Jack Barclay Bentley’s partnership with Huntsman has

Picture special: The Concours of Elegance returned to Hampton Court Palace last weekend, once again showcasing the world’s rarest and most spectacular motorcars in a fabulous setting. Iconic racers from throughout Le Mans 24 Hour history were there, alongside other impressive concours cars in the immaculate Palace grounds. The centenary display included the most significant stars from Le Mans’ storied history.

 

 

Picture special: The Concours of Elegance returned

Lord William Gordon Lennox and Simon Cundey at Henry Poole & Co

Simon Cundey, MD at Henry Poole, is never a man to duck a challenge so he was delighted when The Duke of Richmond asked him if he could design three suits for himself and his two sons ahead of this year’s racing at The Qatar Goodwood Festival, one of the highlights of the summer season. Henry Poole’s team of master tailors joined forces with the Richmond family – The Duke of Richmond himself and sons, the Earl of March and Kinrara and Lord William Gordon Lennox – to tailor each linen suit to their individual styles and preferences. Every detail, from the choice of fabric, cut, fit, and finishes, was meticulously considered, creating traditional garments that reflect contemporary style.

Lord William Gordon Lennox outside Henry Poole & Co

And Simon was more than happy to get involved. “It was a pleasure to work on this project with the family,” he enthused. “Selecting the best Irish linen in a beautiful buttermilk hue and using the colours of Goodwood Racecourse for the interior lining and pocketing resulted in a beautiful pure bespoke Henry Poole suit, cut and made at our Savile Row premises, which we hope the family will enjoy for years to come. It is admirable to see the innovations that the Dukes of Richmond have brought to the Goodwood Estate over generations.”

Tom Pendry, left,  Cutter and Director of Henry Poole, added: “This was an intriguing project in many respects. As well as learning about some of the history and heritage that inspired the concept, it was a pleasure to work with the different members of the family and have their individual inputs. Despite the overall fabric colour being consistent, the different stylistic choices from each gentleman made it easier to see each garment as a personal take on the same theme.” 

Lord William Gordon Lennox, who looked splendid in his new suit, said: “The partnership between Goodwood and Henry Poole is a brilliant celebration of British heritage and craftsmanship. It will be a joy to wear such a beautiful piece of clothing inspired by Goodwood’s racing history, which not only showcases the quality of tailoring that this country, and Henry Poole in particular, is so well known for, but also continues the modern elegance for which Goodwood is known.”

The Goodwood Festival is known for being a relaxed yet elegant affair when it comes to style. King Edward VII, who came racing every year until his death, was responsible for changing the dress code from a formal top hat and tails to a more informal way of dressing and Goodwood later became known for its quintessentially English look of linen suits and Panama hats. It was a look that gave Goodwood a much more carefree, holiday feel than any other racecourse and led to the King calling it “a garden party, with racing tacked on.”

Established in 1806, Henry Poole regularly dressed King Edward VII, inextricably linking the two brands through this shared connection in their history. For, as well as dressing the King, Henry Poole also has records of both Henry Gordon Lennox and George Gordon Lennox as clients in 1857. George ordered a frock coat in 1860, the same year as the Prince of Wales.

Pictures: Jonathan James Wilson

henrypoole.com

 

Lord William Gordon Lennox and Simon Cundey

By Daniel Evans

Edward Sexton, the tailor who shook up Savile Row with his bright colours and daring styles, has died at the age of 80 following a short illness. Sexton, always immaculately dressed whenever he went out, was one of the key driving forces  of change on Savile Row and, so much did he love the trade, he never retired. Most famously, Sexton combined with Tommy Nutter to bring a touch of rebellion to the traditions of Savile Row. Nutter was the public face and Sexton the tailoring genius behind Nutters, the fashion house which ripped up the rules of Savile Row in the late 1960s.

When I caught up with Sexton a few years ago, it was his work at Nutters which brought a sparkle to his eye. “When I got together with Tommy, Savile Row was a really staid place,” he told me. “It was boring. There were curtains across the windows – all very intimidating. But we were two young guys who wanted to make a living and create our own look. When we put our garments in the window, it shocked Savile Row to the core. People said: ‘We’ll give them six months’.

“The turning point came when the clients of other tailors looked into our window and then went into their tailors and said: ‘Could you please make my lapel a little bit wider? Could you please make my trousers a little more flared?’ Gradually, Savile Row started to change. The curtains came down, the heavy oak doors were left open and you would start to see models appear in (other) windows as well. We were a breath of fresh air.”

Thanks to the financial backing of Beatles manager Peter Brown and Cilla Black among others, Nutter, 25, and Sexton, 26, opened the doors of their tailoring house at 35a Savile Row on Valentine’s Day 1969. From the moment their first suits were put on show that evening, the house became known for clothes with a cutting-edge style that were beautifully made – without the slightest compromise of the Row’s high standards. “All the tailors had to admit that, respect that,” recalled Sexton. The pair went on to make the iconic white suits Mick and Bianca Jagger wore, as well as those worn by Paul McCartney and John Lennon on the cover of the Beatles’ Abbey Road album. Sexton once explained: “I don’t make suits, I build them, stage by stage.”

Sexton’s never-ending enthusiasm for tailoring was reflected in an interview he did with Cindy Lawford for Savile Row Style Magazine last year when he said he had no interest in retiring. “I love what I do. I have this huge passion for it. I love being in the workroom. I love a challenge. Once Savile Row is in your blood, it’s in your blood.”

Click here to read Cindy Lawford’s 2022 interview with Edward Sexton

By Daniel Evans Edward Sexton, the tailor who