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News, Watches

Rising Formula One star George Russell was the surprise guest when IWC Schaffhausen celebrated a decade of success on New Bond Street with an exclusive event at its boutique. Joining IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr, pictured above, to welcome guests and clients, Russell emphasised his connection to IWC’s legacy of precision and innovation through a short Q&A. The Mercedes driver added an exciting and dynamic element to the event, reinforcing the brand’s association with high performance and excellence.

The celebration underscored IWC Schaffhausen’s enduring presence in one of the world’s most prestigious retail locations and its commitment to creating extraordinary experiences for its clientele. The event was a blend of heritage, innovation, and a shared passion for precision and performance, as exemplified by both IWC’s craftsmanship and Russell’s success in Formula 1.

Located in the heart of London’s luxury shopping district, the boutique is a testament to IWC’s dedication to timeless craftsmanship and innovation. Over the years, it has hosted numerous exclusive events, like the presence of the F1 Car outside the boutique in 2017 to celebrate Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS win at the British Grand Prix. Plus, product launches like the Big Pilot’s Watch PPC, London Boutique Edition, launched in 2014 (IW502805) and the Big Pilot’s Watch, London Boutique Edition in 2018 (IW501008).

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Rising Formula One star George Russell was

Art

One of the world’s largest collections of graphics by David Hockney is currently on display at Halcyon at 148 New Bond Street. Spanning six decades of Hockney’s career, the works date from 1961 to 2018, and include his iconic pool images, self-portraits, portraits of friends, still lifes and landscapes. As an artist, Hockney has always embraced the latest technological innovations. In the 1980s he harnessed photocopy machines as part of his practice and, more recently, the iPad, which he uses to capture the world as he sees it – through the technicolour guise of the digital age. Visitors will discover various iPad drawings, providing a rich insight into his unique exploration of this new medium.

The exhibition, called Living in Colour, also provides a window into Hockney’s personal life: views of his studios, household objects, portraits of friends, family and his beloved dachshunds – these works document his life and travels from Yorkshire to California. Two figures Hockney has captured particularly frequently are Gregory Evans, his former lover and Celia Birtwell, a celebrated textile designer and lifelong friend. The exhibition features two exceptional portraits of these individuals. These large-scale, vibrant, idiosyncratic portraits are from the Moving Focus series (1984–1987). Visitors will discover works from the Moving Focus series, which is perhaps his most ambitious and experimental output of prints, consisting of portraits, landscapes, interiors, and still lifes. Through this body of work, the artist explored unconventional methods of articulating space, as if the subject is captured from multiple viewpoints, rendering his sitters with an electric feeling of dynamism. These works are notable as a demonstration of his masterful use of colour and as a pure expression of Pablo Picasso’s impact on his work. Hockney acknowledges this impact in two pieces that he created in 1973, which hang in the exhibition. In The Student, Homage to Picasso and Artist and Model, the artist represents himself confronting his idol, the pioneer of cubism.

Another major influence in Hockney’s career is Vincent van Gogh, whom he acknowledges throughout his oeuvre, particularly in Van Gogh Chair (1998). This piece was created in direct homage to the post-impressionist who painted the same subject exactly 100 years earlier. Van Gogh’s Chair with Pipe (1888) is currently on display at the National Gallery in London. Hockney’s pools are some of the most memorable images of the 20th century – visitors will find a number on display – with iridescent pools, complete with sharp geometry, that illicit an irresistible temptation to dive in. Created whilst living in LA, these works have come to symbolise the exuberance and sense of freedom associated with the city.

Paul Green, President and founder of Halcyon said: “It is a privilege to put on an exhibition dedicated to one of the most important British artists of the 20th Century – someone who made his mark in the 60s and is still just as relevant today. This is a unique opportunity to tell his story and make his work accessible to a wide audience.”

Kate Brown, Creative Director at Halcyon explained: “It has been incredible to work with such a comprehensive collection of Hockney’s work. His unique approach to printmaking and joyful spirit resonates through this exhibition, and I am delighted to be able to share this at our gallery at 148 New Bond Street.”

David Hockney: Living in Colour is open free to the public until the end of the year at Halcyon’s flagship space at 148 New Bond Street and at Harrods

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One of the world’s largest collections of

News, Suits

Angus Cundey, known affectionately as The Godfather of Savile Row and the driving force behind Henry Poole & Co for many years, has died after a short illness. He was 87. The company, now headed by his son Simon, made the following announcement earlier this week: “It is with a very heavy heart that we share this message. After a short battle with cancer, Angus H Cundey MBE, the sixth generation to lead our family business, passed away peacefully at his home on August 12.

“He lived and breathed Henry Poole, built special relationships with clients, and was fond of and proud of the skills of all the staff and of their achievements in making Henry Poole what it is today: one of the finest tailors in the world. He was called “the Godfather of Savile Row” as he fought continuously to achieve the Row’s global recognition, its protection and preservation. He was the chairman of trade-related organisations such as the FMT in Europe, the SRB and the BTBA. He was much loved by the trade and all the people involved in it, and was honoured with an MBE for his services to the industry. He leaves a legacy and will be greatly missed by all of us. Rest in peace.”

A few hours later, Savile Row Bespoke said: “Our deepest condolences go to the family, friends and team at Henry Poole. RIP The Godfather of Savile Row.”

It was back in 2018 that Angus Cundey was presented with an MBE by The Queen for his services to bespoke tailoring and trade charities. He acquired many accolades throughout his illustrious career and was a past president of the Federation of Merchant Tailors, Chairman World Congress of Master Tailors 1973, President Master Tailors Benevolent Association and a founder of Savile Row Bespoke.

Henry Poole’s finest: Simon Cundey, Philip Barker, Angus Cundey and Alan Alexander

In an interview with Savile Row Style Magazine back in 2016, he told one of his favourite stories – that, until his headmaster put him right a few weeks before he left school in 1954, he knew hardly anything about Henry Poole. “When I was about 17, my headmaster [at Framlingham College] summoned me to his study and said: ‘Now Cundey what are you going to do when you leave at the end of the term?’. I replied that I was going into the RAF as I wanted to learn how to fly, but he said, ‘Cundey have you not heard of your wonderful family business, the most famous tailors in the world?’”

Although Angus and his sister regularly came up to London in school holidays to see their father at work, Samuel Cundey never explained that Henry Poole was the family business and that Angus could be the sixth generation of the family to work there. Luckily for tailoring, the young Angus had time to mull over his future on the train heading back to London at the end of that final school term. “I sat there thinking: do I really want to be a pilot or a tailor? When I got out at Liverpool Street I asked my father, will there be a place for me at Henry Poole? A great big smile came across his face and he said, ‘of course’.”

Angus Cundey and friends celebrating his MBE at Henry Poole

And Angus was very supportive of Stewart Lee, publisher of Savile Row Style Magazine, when he wanted to launch his own gin brand – Savile Row Gin. “I had a heart stopping moment,” recalled Stewart. “The whole project depended on getting the whole-hearted support of Savile Row tailors. At lunch at Brown’s I told Angus Cundey about it, and for the longest ten seconds of my life, he took a deep pause…He cocked his head to one side and then said yes, he thought it was a wonderful idea.”

Naturally, Stewart was keen to pass on his words of sympathy to the family. “Angus was The Godfather but also the Gentleman of Savile Row,” he said. “It was an honour and a pleasure to have got to know him over many years. Sending my sincere condolences to all the family. The world of bespoke tailoring has lost one of its finest.”

Angus Cundey with Princess Anne

Click here to read Angus Cundey’s 2016 interview with Savile Row Style Magazine

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Angus Cundey, known affectionately as The Godfather

Magazine, News

Click here to read the magazine

The summer edition of Savile Row Style Magazine is now available online. It is full of interesting articles and stories of what has been happening on the Row in recent months. Cindy Lawford looks back on the life and times of Edward Sexton, the wizard with the scissors who died last year. The big interview is with Daisy Knatchbull, who runs The Deck on Savile Row and we listen in as Patrick Grant, the power behind Norton and Sons, tells his story. We also look back on Golden Shears 2023 and 2021 and recall the life of Robert Bright, the man who founded the competition back in 1974. Stewart Lee, CEO of Savile Row Gin, reveals his exciting plans for the company while Su Thomas explains how she is championing sustainability on The Row.

Click here to read the magazine

 

 

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Click here to read the magazine The summer

Books, News

Robin Dutt, author, journalist, bon viveur and expert on all things Savile Row, introduces us to his new book – DANDEMONIUM – and why the person of the Dandy should always be considered and remembered, and, indeed celebrated 

First, Robin, tell us about the concept of the book

DANDEMONIUM has been a project of some 16 (plus) years in the making – including interviews, research, travel, attending talks and symposiums and much besides. The actual writing was in this way, mapped out by rich experience. The main reason for writing the book is to address the erroneous concept of a Dandy being only a clothes-wearing man and instead, a figure who considers philosophy and history as important as a neat cravat or a pristine pair of gloves. Also, the rich trove of writing on the subject from Barbey d’Aurevilly to Ellen Moers, Oscar Wilde to Sebastian Horsley, Captain Jesse to Marc Bolan was impossible to ignore. I feasted daily on the universe of words written by others who were magnetised by the concept of what it was and is like to be a Dandy and what makes him so.

One is so lucky that even in these times of speedy clothes and quickly-won, quick-fix solutions to fashion, we still have genius craftsmen and women who understand the language of cloth and how important it is for the contemporary psyche of the man who wants his clothes to be allies in the wardrobe – not fly by night fashion friends – or is that, fiends?!? Dandyism and Fashion are not the same. Sartorial elegance is Dandyism’s distillation – in the main – when created with thought and knowledge. When Fashion is so voluble – not valuable, Savile Row reminds, for example of the visual intensity of a symphony to wear. The tailors of Rome and New York would surely agree…

Tell us more about the history of the Dandy and what it took to get into your book

Of course, it was the King of the Dandies, Beau Brummell who set the standard in the 18th century for a look that was, as T.S. Eliot has it…‘Rich and Modest’ at the same time. It is a triumph of tailoring if the man wearing a wonderful suit blends his being with the threads so that both elements are virtually indistinguishable. Inevitably, there were characters I met along the way – those tumbledown Palace ex-flunkies (a little like Backstairs Billy) who were well past their ‘sell by date’ and yet exuded an olde worlde Dandy charm. One gentlemen – camp as you like – springs to mind immediately, a towering six foot five (or so it seemed) private view guest in all the best Mayfair galleries, who had a ready smile and despite a shaky hand, always held the champagne glass with the determination of a Hussar with a sword! He always wore some kind of brooch or pin in his woven ties and once gave me a motif in the shape of a clump of glittering wheat. He had another anyway!

Quentin Crisp – so crumpled and distressed in second hand (nay, charity shop) velvets and dusty Fedora inspired wildly as we sat in the Chelsea Arts Club garden one summer with my guest, Lloyd Cole (of The Commotions fame) regaling with tales. Ram Gopal, photographed by Cecil Beaton by the sea in a sculptural Indian dance pose was unforgettable, for although he usually wore brightly coloured ethnic tunics in vibrant red or pink, with a fabric neck purse (full of fifty pound notes!) he exuded mischief and charm – typical of the most select Dandy.

And then…what of Conroy Maddox, England’s last Surrealist who never wavered from his ‘Colonel-style’ coats and pipe? yes, there was the archetypical tash too – stained with tobacco and Brandy! As a result of meeting so very many unusual and remarkable characters, I was duty bound to weave in the actuality of my having interviewed some of these into the text of DANDEMONIUM and as ‘end chapters’ the reader will find the likes of, Andy Warhol, Hardy Amies, Bunny Roger, AA Gill, Robert Fraser, Scott Crolla and David Sylvian spanning disciplines from couture to art, restaurant criticism to rock music. But everyone I have ever interviewed, although they may not be so stridently mentioned, have had a dynamic effect on my understanding of the concept of Dandyism – Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Vivienne Westwood, Tommy Roberts, John Pearse, Nicola Trussardi, Romeo Gigli, Elio Fiorucci, Jean Muir…There are more stars here than in the skies…Having met so many potential candidates for inclusion I was also compelled to write the whole first chapter with the title…’Who’s Not a Dandy’! Just to set the record straight! Fops, Pretty Gentlemen, Beaux, Macoronis and Incroyables, Dandies do not make!

Finally, Robin chooses his Four Top Dandies (though NOT in any particular order!)

BEAU BRUMMELL

Since the concept of Dandyism, whether historically or now, revolves around his very personage, it is impossible not to acknowledge his huge contribution to sartorial brilliance. It was he who codified the law when it came to the mystery of simplicity surrounding correct menswear. Even contemporary eyes can regard engravings, drawings and the like of England’s export to the world of male chic and see that he was more than on to something! Restraint, appropriateness, a sense of occasion and most importantly, to write your autobiography in the air which is as personal to you as your favourite lapel flower or boot maker.

PRINCE

Glam beyond belief, it is clear that Prince understood the vitality and force of clothes. Whether stripped back to basics or full-on rock chic in purple frock coat and shirt with attendant jabot, I appreciate Prince for his understanding of historical ‘givens’ which when whipped up into shiny cloth and shine, still reminds that it is the ‘cut’ that is all. In my book I examine the most important elements for me about any fine tailoring…CUT, COLOUR, CLOTH – Sartoria’s 3 ‘Rs’. Prince wore suits very well and almost always highly coloured – red, peach, of course, purple and naturally, had the diminutive figure so to do but whether in Versace or not, he understood the vital business of the conveyance of a thought, a feeling, an intent. I once saw him at a nightclub in London in the protective glass cube of a celebrity box. Unforgettable…I had the occasion to wear a newly bought pink-peach, embossed cotton Spenser from Yves Saint Laurent one time and people screamed at me on the Leicester Square escalator…‘Prince!!!’There was a resemblance. WAS!!!

HARDY AMIES

There are few who understood the ‘purpose’ of a suit more than Sir Hardy Amies. He totally felt that clothes should be ‘peaceful and quiet’ – i.e. garments which literally won’t scare the horses(!). And whilst expression might be sought in rich, vivid but tasteful ties or cheeky socks, the body of the suit had to be charmingly, achingly anonymous. I purchased from him once, a Ghillie collared evening coat which is so perfect as to make perfection blush! On another occasion, I persuaded myself to part with £!”) for an old ‘pig’ I believe (i.e. un uncollected item) which had cost thousands, in moss green mohair. His little menswear book – an almanac of style for the gentleman published in the 1960s is (or should be) required reading by all those professing to chic today. There is cheek and chic!

MARC BOLAN 

Marc Bolan, founder and frontman of the seminal glam rock group T. Rex wore sequins and spangles, lurex and cheesecloth and fitted in perfectly with the post-hippy feel in menswear. But his penchant for a good (nay, great) tailored blazer (to partner with leopard print or Denim) marks him out as a sartorial consumer and one who understood the concept of the Dandy. His last album before his untimely death was entitled, ‘Dandy in the Underworld.’ The first line runs...’Prince of Players – Pawn of None.’  Now, if that sentiment is not the sentiment of a Dandy’s egotistical stance…What is?!?

To order your copy of DANDEMONIUM click HERE

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Robin Dutt, author, journalist, bon viveur and