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Robin Dutt, author, journalist, bon viveur and expert on all things Savile Row, introduces us to his new book – DANDEMONIUM – and why the person of the Dandy should always be considered and remembered, and, indeed celebrated 

First, Robin, tell us about the concept of the book

DANDEMONIUM has been a project of some 16 (plus) years in the making – including interviews, research, travel, attending talks and symposiums and much besides. The actual writing was in this way, mapped out by rich experience. The main reason for writing the book is to address the erroneous concept of a Dandy being only a clothes-wearing man and instead, a figure who considers philosophy and history as important as a neat cravat or a pristine pair of gloves. Also, the rich trove of writing on the subject from Barbey d’Aurevilly to Ellen Moers, Oscar Wilde to Sebastian Horsley, Captain Jesse to Marc Bolan was impossible to ignore. I feasted daily on the universe of words written by others who were magnetised by the concept of what it was and is like to be a Dandy and what makes him so.

One is so lucky that even in these times of speedy clothes and quickly-won, quick-fix solutions to fashion, we still have genius craftsmen and women who understand the language of cloth and how important it is for the contemporary psyche of the man who wants his clothes to be allies in the wardrobe – not fly by night fashion friends – or is that, fiends?!? Dandyism and Fashion are not the same. Sartorial elegance is Dandyism’s distillation – in the main – when created with thought and knowledge. When Fashion is so voluble – not valuable, Savile Row reminds, for example of the visual intensity of a symphony to wear. The tailors of Rome and New York would surely agree…

Tell us more about the history of the Dandy and what it took to get into your book

Of course, it was the King of the Dandies, Beau Brummell who set the standard in the 18th century for a look that was, as T.S. Eliot has it…‘Rich and Modest’ at the same time. It is a triumph of tailoring if the man wearing a wonderful suit blends his being with the threads so that both elements are virtually indistinguishable. Inevitably, there were characters I met along the way – those tumbledown Palace ex-flunkies (a little like Backstairs Billy) who were well past their ‘sell by date’ and yet exuded an olde worlde Dandy charm. One gentlemen – camp as you like – springs to mind immediately, a towering six foot five (or so it seemed) private view guest in all the best Mayfair galleries, who had a ready smile and despite a shaky hand, always held the champagne glass with the determination of a Hussar with a sword! He always wore some kind of brooch or pin in his woven ties and once gave me a motif in the shape of a clump of glittering wheat. He had another anyway!

Quentin Crisp – so crumpled and distressed in second hand (nay, charity shop) velvets and dusty Fedora inspired wildly as we sat in the Chelsea Arts Club garden one summer with my guest, Lloyd Cole (of The Commotions fame) regaling with tales. Ram Gopal, photographed by Cecil Beaton by the sea in a sculptural Indian dance pose was unforgettable, for although he usually wore brightly coloured ethnic tunics in vibrant red or pink, with a fabric neck purse (full of fifty pound notes!) he exuded mischief and charm – typical of the most select Dandy.

And then…what of Conroy Maddox, England’s last Surrealist who never wavered from his ‘Colonel-style’ coats and pipe? yes, there was the archetypical tash too – stained with tobacco and Brandy! As a result of meeting so very many unusual and remarkable characters, I was duty bound to weave in the actuality of my having interviewed some of these into the text of DANDEMONIUM and as ‘end chapters’ the reader will find the likes of, Andy Warhol, Hardy Amies, Bunny Roger, AA Gill, Robert Fraser, Scott Crolla and David Sylvian spanning disciplines from couture to art, restaurant criticism to rock music. But everyone I have ever interviewed, although they may not be so stridently mentioned, have had a dynamic effect on my understanding of the concept of Dandyism – Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Vivienne Westwood, Tommy Roberts, John Pearse, Nicola Trussardi, Romeo Gigli, Elio Fiorucci, Jean Muir…There are more stars here than in the skies…Having met so many potential candidates for inclusion I was also compelled to write the whole first chapter with the title…’Who’s Not a Dandy’! Just to set the record straight! Fops, Pretty Gentlemen, Beaux, Macoronis and Incroyables, Dandies do not make!

Finally, Robin chooses his Four Top Dandies (though NOT in any particular order!)

BEAU BRUMMELL

Since the concept of Dandyism, whether historically or now, revolves around his very personage, it is impossible not to acknowledge his huge contribution to sartorial brilliance. It was he who codified the law when it came to the mystery of simplicity surrounding correct menswear. Even contemporary eyes can regard engravings, drawings and the like of England’s export to the world of male chic and see that he was more than on to something! Restraint, appropriateness, a sense of occasion and most importantly, to write your autobiography in the air which is as personal to you as your favourite lapel flower or boot maker.

PRINCE

Glam beyond belief, it is clear that Prince understood the vitality and force of clothes. Whether stripped back to basics or full-on rock chic in purple frock coat and shirt with attendant jabot, I appreciate Prince for his understanding of historical ‘givens’ which when whipped up into shiny cloth and shine, still reminds that it is the ‘cut’ that is all. In my book I examine the most important elements for me about any fine tailoring…CUT, COLOUR, CLOTH – Sartoria’s 3 ‘Rs’. Prince wore suits very well and almost always highly coloured – red, peach, of course, purple and naturally, had the diminutive figure so to do but whether in Versace or not, he understood the vital business of the conveyance of a thought, a feeling, an intent. I once saw him at a nightclub in London in the protective glass cube of a celebrity box. Unforgettable…I had the occasion to wear a newly bought pink-peach, embossed cotton Spenser from Yves Saint Laurent one time and people screamed at me on the Leicester Square escalator…‘Prince!!!’There was a resemblance. WAS!!!

HARDY AMIES

There are few who understood the ‘purpose’ of a suit more than Sir Hardy Amies. He totally felt that clothes should be ‘peaceful and quiet’ – i.e. garments which literally won’t scare the horses(!). And whilst expression might be sought in rich, vivid but tasteful ties or cheeky socks, the body of the suit had to be charmingly, achingly anonymous. I purchased from him once, a Ghillie collared evening coat which is so perfect as to make perfection blush! On another occasion, I persuaded myself to part with £!”) for an old ‘pig’ I believe (i.e. un uncollected item) which had cost thousands, in moss green mohair. His little menswear book – an almanac of style for the gentleman published in the 1960s is (or should be) required reading by all those professing to chic today. There is cheek and chic!

MARC BOLAN 

Marc Bolan, founder and frontman of the seminal glam rock group T. Rex wore sequins and spangles, lurex and cheesecloth and fitted in perfectly with the post-hippy feel in menswear. But his penchant for a good (nay, great) tailored blazer (to partner with leopard print or Denim) marks him out as a sartorial consumer and one who understood the concept of the Dandy. His last album before his untimely death was entitled, ‘Dandy in the Underworld.’ The first line runs...’Prince of Players – Pawn of None.’  Now, if that sentiment is not the sentiment of a Dandy’s egotistical stance…What is?!?

To order your copy of DANDEMONIUM click HERE

Robin Dutt, author, journalist, bon viveur and

David Gandy talking at the Concours on Savile Row last month

David Gandy, the entrepreneur known to many as Mr Savile Row, revealed a little secret to the crowds teeming up and down during the recent Concours event there. He was asked: So David, if you had to pick just one suit, what would be your favourite?

For a man known for his elegance and style, this is no easy question, especially as he has worked with so many up and down the Row over the years.

But, after a sharp intake of breath, David made his decision. “If I had to choose one – and I do just love the suit – it’s the Henry Poole evening suit,” he said. “They invented it and I have one. It’s midnight blue. This history behind that and to tell people when they ask me about it is quite remarkable. I absolutely love that. That’s probably the one that stands out. I don’t get to wear it very often but when I do it’s very special.”

On Savile Row itself, David revealed: “It’s my favourite street in London. I will mix high street with Savile Row and that’s the beauty of it. You’re buying for longevity. People talk about sustainability these days and some of my suits from Savile Row I’ve had for 15 years and I still wear them. That’s the pinnacle of sustainability. Yes, you may have to have your suits adjusted but this clothing is lasting between 15 to 20 years and they can be passed down (to the next generation) as well.”

David Gandy talking at the Concours on

The third edition of the Concours on Savile Row returned to Mayfair this month. Not even the opening day’s poor weather could dampen the spirits of Londoners and visitors from around the world, as they made their way along the event’s special red carpet display. The Concours featured more than 50 collector cars and motorcycles. Jenny Casebourne, head of portfolio at The Pollen Estate, said: “Savile Row is London’s iconic destination renowned for tailoring, craftsmanship and style. We are excited to see the new collaborations and the synergies with the car manufacturers come to life. Concours on Savile Row is a great addition to London’s events calendar, and showcases the very best of British tailoring to a global audience.”

And after all that, of course, we had a party….

The third edition of the Concours on

The chief executive of the trade lobby group for Britain’s luxury brands had told MPs that Savile Row suits should have the same protected status as Melton Mowbray pork pies and Cornish clotted cream. Helen Brocklebank, chief executive at Walpole’s, said: “If we don’t put protections around these incredible regional clusters of highly skilled craftsmen that are unique to our country, then we could risk losing those skills over the next 10 or 15 years. This is a massive opportunity. Why are we making ourselves less competitive?”

Ms Brocklebank made the comments as Walpole published a report into the economic value of the UK’s luxury sector, which found the industry was now contributing £81bn a year, a 69 per cent increase over the past five years.

Essentially, MPs are being urged to widen the Protected Geographical Indication regime to include Savile Row. At the moment, the regime grants certain products from a specific place legal protection from misuse and imitation and Walpole is urging the government to expand the category to cover hand-made crafts.

Ms Brocklebank added that it was a “really easy” change to make that would move the dial for these “unique national assets”. She said: “If the scheme was extended to include non-produce-based craft products – like Savile Row tailoring – this would help protect the skills these industries rely on and, in turn, the communities they support.”

There are fears that British craftspeople are being put at a disadvantage compared with those in the EU, which has granted protected status to certain non-food and drink products. This includes Limoges porcelain in France, which was given the status in 2017.

 

The chief executive of the trade lobby

Richard James has opened a new bespoke £2 million store on Clifford Street, just off Savile Row, the third outlet in the company’s fashion armoury and its co-founder and managing director Sean Dixon couldn’t be more excited. “We started the business back in 1992 with what was the smallest store on the street, and now we have got some 2,500 sq ft here, so we have grown,” says Sean. “A lot of our customers have been with us since we opened that first store and many of them have gradually moved from ready-to-wear tailoring to made-to-measure and bespoke, so there is a certain symmetry to the way we are set up here.”

The new store – “a cathedral to tailoring,” is how the company describes it – is spread over three storeys with Sean adding: “There’s a lot of rich colour and that’s testimony to Richard himself, who I co-founded the business with in 1992. We really wouldn’t be where we are now without him. He retired from the business a few years ago, but he remains with us in spirit and style as well as name. The walls are in rich burgundy, orange, blue and yellow, and the patterns on the curtains and carpets neatly reference our in-house print design, which is something else that we have a reputation for.”

The work was led by international interior designer David Thomas who said: “I felt strongly about respecting the building’s exterior architecture – the only all-white building on Clifford Street – and bringing back the interior to its former glory. Restoring the original details, whilst adding elements of modernity.”

Head up to the first floor and you’ll find a stylish cocktail bar, complete with comfortable seats and classy artwork. Sean explains: “We wanted to create a space that our customers could use and feel at home in, so a bar seemed like a good idea. Our shops have always been convivial, sociable places that have forged friendships. I remember when Oasis, Elton John and Lord Brown all came in at the same time, and they all got on famously. An unlikely gathering, perhaps, but the thing is that we have always appealed to people with a certain attitude, rather than any particular demographic. I think our customers are the most adventurous on Savile Row.”

And, according to Sean, the novelty of loungewear which took off during the Covid-19 lockdowns has worn off, with more people now choosing to dress more formally. “The world of tailoring, and the suit, is actually having a bit of a resurgence,” he said. “But the most important thing is that people feel welcome when they enter the store. Buying a suit can feel intimidating, so we wanted to create a place where people can spend time and be helped through the process, whether they are buying ready to wear or having a suit made. It should be a very pleasant experience.”

Richard James has opened a new bespoke