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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

The classic appeal of a Blazer

AT one time, a navy blazer and flannels was an ensemble that marked out an Englishman at leisure.  Whether for watching cricket, a pint at the local, a spin in the car or strolling along the Promenade des Anglais at Nice, his idea of casual dress was a tailored blazer, neat shirt and tie, with well pressed flannels, maybe a boater or a panama worn firmly upon his head.  In such, he would defy the heat of the midday sun.

Today, as semi-naked young and not-so-young men stroll along Piccadilly and other town thoroughfares, the blazer and flannels brigade may seem hopelessly outmoded – yet for certain of the Season’s events and inner sanctums, and indeed for many other elegant casual occasions, the blazer is still a man’s best friend.

This navy jacket, usually double breasted, often with brass buttons and traditionally sporting a crest upon the breast pocket, never really goes out of favour  There are various claims for its origins but it does not, as often stated, derive from the HMS Blazer of the mid 1800s, although it does indeed reeferjckt.jpgfollow the style lines of a jacket long worn by sailors, the Reefer (as shown left).

In fact, its name refers to the ‘blaze’ of colour observed in the bright red flannel jackets worn by members of the Lady Margaret Boat Club, Cambridge, in the 1880s. Other under-graduates referred to these garments as ‘a real blazer’, and the term blazer then went on to encompass other boating jackets which might be even more colourfully striped, and with boating crests on their breast pockets.

Today’s blazers happily mix the double breasted, navy appearance of the traditional sailor’s reefer with the more colourful designs of the boating clubs; they may be plain, they may be striped; they may be double breasted, they may be single; they may be button-two, three, four, six, even button-eight; brass, plain or leather buttoned – but the end result is a jacket that is undoubtedly a Blazer.

At top, a classic striped blazer, with cream flannels, cravat and panama hat - the perfect outfit for Henley, Lords, Wimbledon and any number of other casual-but-elegant Summer occasions. This one was featured in an earlier collection of Crombie.

 

The Lord's Rule Book on Dress

The Long Room at Lord’s is the hallowed inner sanctum of the home of cricket (see also Sport page) and has a dress code that is rigorously enforced here, as in the rest of the Pavilion building.  We reprint part of the Rule Book below:

"Whilst in the Pavilion, gentlemen shall wear ties and tailored coats and
acceptable trousers with appropriate shoes. Zip-up golf-style jackets are not
permitted. Gentlemen will not be admitted to the Pavilion, including the Pavilion concourse, unless, on entrance, their dress conforms to this Regulation. However, coats and ties may be removed on the Pavilion concourse, and outside balconies, but must be replaced for entry to the Pavilion building. Ladies shall wear dresses; or skirts or trousers worn with blouses, and appropriate shoes. Dresses and blouses may be sleeveless.

Religious, traditional  or national dress, or service uniform, is permitted.
However, the following items of clothing are prohibited; jeans and their close relations, leggings, jodhpur-style trousers; t-shirts; track suits; training shoes; plimsolls; flip-flop shoes; denim clothing; and overalls."

Rules for areas outside the  Pavilion are slightly more relaxed but the Book maintains sternly:
Admittance to the Members' Friends' Enclosures will also be refused to
anyone wearing dilapidated or offensive garments of any kind. Bare feet, bare torsos or bare midriffs are not permitted under any circumstances."
        
Quite right too.  We take particular delight in those "close relations" of jeans being barred.  Would-be visitors addicted to dishabille are, of course, allowed into the hoi polloi ranks of the general stadium.

Many members stick to the classic blazer, white flannels, shirt and the MCC tie – given a choice of the flamboyant orange and lemon striped tie or the formal ‘town tie’ in dark blue  pattern with a small MCC motif in red and gold.

 


  Spring 07 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 

This edition focuses attention upon the London Season, with all its fixtures and the social whirl that goes with them. And the forthcoming ban on smoking in public places also prompts a look at the prospects for smokers here.

contact Home - New Non-Smoking Jacket
   
contact Style 1 - Dressing for the Season
   
contact Style 2 – Morning Dress
   
contact Style 3 – Dinner Jackets
   
contact Style 4 – Blazers
   
contact Grooming – Oil the Wrinkles
   
contact Cars Brooklands revived
   
contact Drink – The Season goes Pop
   
contact Bars - Smoke Signals
   
contact Sports - Racing First
   
  Yachts - Cowes Week
   
contact Travel – Gastronomic Trend
   
contact Culture – Culture in the Country
   
contact Contact
   
contact Companions of Savile Row – listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archives
 
     
 

::AUGUST HIGHLIGHTS ::

 

4- 11 August The end of Glorious Goodwood races overlaps with the start of Cowes Week. This is anothe rioutous mixture of boats and parties, the nautical and the landlubbers rubbing shoulders for this annual event on the Isle of Wight.
Just off the South Coast of England, near the historic port of Portsmouth, it was first held in 1812 and has grown to become one of the most important sailing occasions in the world.

9 - 13 England v India Test Match, at the Oval. The Oval ground is on the South Bank of the Thames, home to the Surrey County Cricket team, and the ground where the memorable 2005 Test Match ended with England winning the Ashes.

In 1868, it hosted the first international cricket game, for the visiting Aboriginal Cricket Team.

BLAZERS AND BAMBOO

WITH their strong connections to the military, Dege & Skinner are one of the top houses for blazers.

They make plenty of classic navy versions and will also make in the traditional regimental stripes - but given the minimum cloth length that the mill will supply, the customer is encouraged to take on the extra cloth. He may then inspire others to also invest in a fine bespoke blazer in the regimental colours!

For the Goodwood races, where linen jackets are traditionally favoured, an alternative cloth being offered this year by Dege & Skinner is a new quality Bamboo.

Made from the long fibres of the bamboo plant, this has similar properties to linen but does not crease so much and has a wonderful lustre. Available in some attractive summer shades, 8oz weight, with a soft handle, Bamboo is going to prove a popular choice. The shirting version has already been well received by Dege & Skinner's bespoke shirt customers.