The rise and rise of the warrior style figure was to be expected, we suppose, given the prevailing conditions. With civilians under threat from terrorism, it was inevitable that the urban warrior look should gain credence - as shown in these figures from the Florence menswear exhibition.

	Civilising influence - the classic business suit, made for Harry Potter (Daniel Radcliffe) in a suit by Mark Powell.

The trend has been underway for some time, of course. The spread of casual wear, outdoor lifestyle lines and practical sporty gear has brought together rugged, protective and overtly masculine influences that make for a macho, aggressive figure.

The Hoodie is one aspect of this movement that has attracted attention and censure. But many young men are now dressed as if ready for the next battle - which indeed they may well be - in clothes that take their inspiration from the military and the bandidos.

The civilised alternative of a Savile Row suit seems to stand little chance against the warrior class.But it is worth remembering that history's leading warriors largely dressed to kill - think Genghis Khan and Henry Vlll. And there is nothing like wearing a £3,000 suit to persuade a man that it is best to rise above the ruck and opt for the peaceful pleasure of a pint.

Savile Row's influence is an important one in the fight (if that is the word we want) against aggression.

Styles at top are from the latest collection by Marlborough, one of many to concentrate upon such rugged styles at Pitti Uomo.

Elegant shoes, not bovver boots, by Edward Green, shoemaker par excellence since 1890. They are clearly not made for gallumphing through any mire - though the style on the right is based upon a traditional ghillie country shoe. On the left, a sophisticated black crocodile number, a 3 tie Derby.
An option for those who wish to have their own designs made is the Top Drawer service, where Edward Green's craftsmen will adapt a shoe last accordingly. For for information go to www.edwardgreen.com

THERE is knitwear and there is knitwear. And quite some of the best of it comes out of Scotland, very much appreciated at Pitti by trade buyers from around the world.

This cardigan comes from Johnstons, a company established in Elgin for over 200 hundred years, who take in the finest raw materials and turn them out as the finest of cloths, knitwear, clothing and accessories.

It is in luxury cashmere , from next winter's collection, with a herringbone overchecked front.