SUMMER AND THE LONDON SEASON

Ascot, Wimbledon, Henley, Goodwood, Lords – a summer litany of glorious occasions that are known around the world and which conjure up the essence of the London Season.

But to these long-standing events has been added a host of new ones that will test the stamina of the most determined season-goer. For the programme is no longer confined to the London environs, but has become wider and longer and is certainly no longer confined to a privileged coterie.

Nothing, absolutely nothing, like messing about in boats at the Henley Royal Regatta, when wearing striped blazer, boater or boating cap. Below, formal attire for Royal Ascot, by Benson & Clegg.

Hoi polloi may start off with Derby Day in April, a traditional outing for Londoners, rather than the more exclusive Cheltenham Gold Cup in March. The Boat Race is another early runner, in April, but things really get going in May.

The Chelsea Flower Show and Lord's first Test are two established occasions that bring them in from the shires, but there is now mention of the White Nights Festival in St Petersburg, a fest of music and theatre for those prepared to travel farther afield.

The Cannes Film Festival, the Monaco Grand Prix and the French Open are other attractions in May that have become part of the jet-setting gent’s season, while the gentler Hay-on-Wye Festival brings international culture seekers here.

The Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy (June 7 - August 15) first took place in 1769, and, like  Glorious Goodwood (1801) Ascot (1807), Cowes (1826), Henley (1839) and Wimbledon (1877), is an old mainstay of the season.

Royal Ascot this year is from June 14 - 18, Wimbledon June 20 - July 3, Henley Regatta June 29 - July 3, Goodwood July 26 - 30,and Cowes Week August 6 - 13. Around these through May, June and July have grown up the Glydebourne Opera,  Polo at Hurlingham and Windsor, Tennis at Queens, the Isle of Wight festival, Glastonbury, and a host of others on the periphery.

Some may also partake in Art 40 in Basel, Polo in New York, and the Edinburgh Festival, but traditionally the London Season ended on the Glorious 12th of August, when all the landed gentry who had been living it up in London went back to their estates for the start of shooting.

Bright colours for those who dare. These two suits were made by Timothy Everest for a wedding party and would make an entrance at Henley, Wimbledon or Goodwood.

But the very success of some events has lead to problems.  The Queen complained about standards of dress at Royal Ascot, where many young ladies new to the scene have seemed more attired for a downtown disco than the races. On packed trains to Ascot and other occasions, young enthusiasts with ‘crates’ of champagne in tow, jostle the decorum of others. And this year’s Cartier International Polo Tournament at Windsor is to be the last such, the calibre of guests in recent years seen as making the event too 'chavvy'.

However, this fresh intake of season-goers is eager to participate and to dress up - if not yet quite getting the hang of the rules of the game. Tailors are happy to advise on the niceties, and many young men who have never before had experience of Fred Astaire’s top hat and tails are now getting their first taste of what fun such style can be.

Despite economic gloom, the season provides wonderful excuses for wardrobe additions. As well as Ascot's top hat and tails, Henley prompts sober-suits into blazing blazers and boaters, Goodwood and Wimbledon call for pale linen suits and panamas, and Lords demands the decorum of plain blazer and flannels.

The occasions may have lost some of their elegance and decorum but have gained youthful high spirits and flamboyance. And that means they will go on - much to the benefit of Savile Row.

Left, as above, this sky blue jacket shows Savile Row is not all sombre shades. By Richard Anderson, it would be good for Goodward and Henley.