LORD MAYOR OF SAVILE ROW

“One of the most pleasurable occasions of my year was my visit to Savile Row,” said a lady who has a particularly full diary of engagements, the Right Worshipful the Lord Mayor of Westminster, Judith Warner.

As Lord Mayor, she is the first citizen of an area that encompasses the seat of government, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and many other important sites, as well as the whole of Mayfair, including Savile Row.

Her role, not to be confused with that of the City of London’s Lord Mayor, is essentially that of a meeter and greeter to the great and the good, as well as to represent neighbourhood communities within the Council’s boundaries. It is a ceremonial role without executive power, above politics and constituency matters, but no less important for that.

Behind the scenes, the Lord Mayor exercises considerable clout, liaising with organisations and individuals on behalf of the council, and with the aim of promoting its work and the UK in general, and Westminster in particular.

The Lord Mayor, Judith Warner, beneath the Westminster coat of arms.

Judith Warner is coming to the end of her year in office. She has had an action-packed schedule which culminated in the Royal Wedding early in May, and though she has some regrets at leaving her lofty office on the 18th floor of City Hall, with magnificent views across London, she has many other strings to her bow that will keep her occupied.

“My background is in art and design,” she explains.”When I was at art college, they still taught drawing, and you learnt to look at the structure and colour of things. I understand how things are made, what goes into design. That’s why I appreciate Savile Row craftsmanship so much.”

On her visit to the Row, she toured the workrooms of Henry Poole and Dege & Skinner, seeing the craftsmanship and hand skills that go into making a bespoke suit.

The Palace of Westminster and Westminster Abbey are flanked by the Thames at the southern border of Westminster.

“We are lucky to have Savile Row, our equivalent of Champagne. I am very keen that we should keep tailoring and think we need to re-establish our manufacturing skills.”

This is a passionate theme of hers. Meeting as she does diplomatic and trade delegates from around the world, she is all too aware of the major changes underway that will have a profound effect upon the UK and other European countries.  She sees China and India dominating the textile field and increasingly moving up-market, eager to make quality clothes. She points to South America as the important area for European exporters.

“China and India have established textile industries but they don’t yet have design capabilities. So they are buying them. China has a tie town, the centre of their tie-making industry, and they have bought up 600,000 tie designs world-wide so that they own the copyrights. They have bought up tie silks in Italy’s Como region. They have bought vineyards in Bordeaux. They want the best. That is the kind of determination they have. They won’t need to buy from Europe.  But South America hasn’t a tradition of making textiles or clothing. And it has wealthy, well educated consumers eager to buy.  That’s where the tailors should be looking to do business.”

Above, the Lord Mayor visiting Dege & Skinner, seen here with William and Michael Skinner.

In the UK market, she points out that people can afford luxury holidays, good cars, extensions to their houses, and that many spend a fortune on clothes – “so they can afford to go to a tailor”.

“We all need clothes. But we don’t all need to go to China for them. There is plenty of room in the market for different tastes – and a well tailored suit will last a lot longer than cheaper versions. We have got to rediscover our manufacturing skills and re-appreciate bespoke, things we excel in. Most of the luxury yachts in Monte Carlo, for example, are made in Britain.

“And we need areas that are charming, that have attractive, original shops, as Savile Row. We must protect these centres of craft excellence as much as we can.”

Her own taste in clothes is dictated rather by the job. “Those in public life have to  dress according to who they are going to meet. I need clothes that will be acceptable for a long day, from morning to night, in dark colours, no patterns.”

Now, as she leaves the mayoralty, her background in textiles and art will ensure she remains concerned with what is happening to the British clothing industry in general and Savile Row in particular. And in her role as a Councillor on Westminster Council, she is a well placed ally for the Row and the whole of the Mayfair area.

See Savile Row Style Magazine for details on new book on Westminster.