WIDER AUDIENCE FOR HUNTSMAN

Many of Savile Row's houses have made clothes for the famous but few have become famous themselves. Of those few who have entered the pantheon of public recognition, Huntsman is the one that stands out as the glamour puss, the one that blends the best of bespoke credentials with a certain star quality.

It has not been without its ups and downs, recent years seeing changes in ownership and management that made the star shine less brightly. But with the arrival of Roubi L'Roubi as creative director earlier this year, the grand old house has perked up no end, and as his months of reorganisation come to fruition, it is set to regain its old lustre – and then some.

First and foremost, bespoke tailoring remains its core business, under the able stewardship of Patrick Murphy as head cutter. As a young trainee at Davies, he remembers how he would watch the cars rolls up to Huntsman across the road, delivering a steady stream of celebrities. His father, who also worked at Huntsman, would be a proud man today.

The classic Huntsman style remains as a touchstone, the lean, single breasted, button-one style perfected by the legendary Colin Hammick a timeless favourite. But customers are of course at liberty to dictate whatever style they want, and though some sound advice may be offered, long experience means Huntsman's tailors are unfazed by any personal idiosyncrasies or wilder flights of fancy.

Bespoke, then, remains the beating heart of the company but Roubi is bent upon taking the Huntsman brand to a much wider audience than those happy few who can afford such luxury. A full ready-to-wear collection and accessories are just coming available online, as well as in shop, with the facility to customise any outfit.

Everything starts with the cloth, so the ready-to-wear customer may choose from a range that covers classic business qualities through checks and country tweeds. The jacket style and details may be chosen, size, sleeve length and lining specified. Price for a three-piece suit will be under £3,000.

An extensive range of shirtings and shirt styles is on offer, plus ties, braces, scarves and shooting socks , with more to come. In time, perhaps this Savile Row brand will be among the global fraternity so long dominated by American, French and Italian conglomerates.

Top, the classic sb with peaked lapels; above, a version in one of Huntsman's own checks; a db style below.

This is an interesting time for Savile Row. Three other established names, Kilgour, Hardy Amies and Gieves & Hawkes are now part of the major Chinese concern, Fung Capital, which has plans to extend their scope and create separate accessory shops. Anderson & Sheppard opened its accessories outlet just around the corner from its bespoke house last year, which is proving very successful, and Davies & Son also opened a small accessories boutique last year.

This may, at last, be the beginning of Savile Row starting to cash in on its reputation. Limited in output for bespoke, and with limited space and time for diversification into ready-to-wear and accessories, the tailors have remained small, personal businesses. Those that have been taken over, with the benefit of financial backing to fund branching out, have perhaps seen their bespoke credentials diluted with Suits at the top rather than Craftsmen.

Roubi is the newcomer who may lead the way to emulating the Paris women's couture houses without weakening the Row's bespoke base. He is fully committed to seeing that bespoke remains the main focus of Huntsman and as a craftsman himself appreciates its intrinsic as well as marketing value.

The success and prestige of the French couture names is based upon their couture work but financial success and international recognition have come via their many spin-offs. Perfume, accessories, jewellery, watches... one grand ball gown may cost a fortune but these are the items that sell in their thousands and make the profits.

Roubi has the experience and the clout to take Huntsman into global heights. As a designer and craftsman, he has made for women and men, spent some years as manager of the Joseph empire of shops, and honed his business and creative skills with his own atelier and consultancy.

With his partner, Pierre Lagrange, one of the UK's top hedge fund managers, he is able to invest in Huntsman's future. He's the man to bring that starry lustre back to this Savile Row house and in the process boost the Row's image in general.