A ROSÉ BY THE NAME OF GOSSET
A wine buff will know his malolactic fermentation from his elbow but for those many who simply know what they like and recognise quality when they taste it, Gosset's newly released prestige cuvée will be a Christmas treat.
This 2002 Celebris Extra Brut is a blend of 52/48 per cent Chardonnay/Pinot Noir and, like Gosset's other champagnes, has not been through the malolactic fermentation. That process makes a wine less acidic but Gosset say “We carefully avoid malolactic fermentation so that the wines keep all their natural fruitiness.”
As the company has been making wines since 1584, it is safe to assume that it knows what it is doing. Because its wines are well aged, they are able to achieve the softness and roundness that the malolactic process can give to younger wines.
But enough of such technicalities. The 2002 Celebris is a fine vintage, the result of a cold but dry and sunny winter, followed by a rise in temperatures and rain until mid-March. It was appreciated at a tasting in London hosted by Philippe Manfredini, international director at Gosset, along with other fine samples from their cellars, at the newly opened Chotto Matte restaurant in Soho.
Included was the Celebris Rosé 2003, which can be expected to be a popular choice this festive season, as the rosé bandwagon gathers momentum. Manfredini recommends that it is served at between 8 to 10 C temperature. For that extra special occasion, there's the Grand Millesime 2004, a premier creamy example of top champagne, and to round off this abundance of delight from the Champagne region, the choice was the smooth liquid gold of Frapin Cognac, a grande champagne cognac, in this distinctive bottle, left.
Christmas seemed to have commenced a little early.
ARGENTINA'S RED FOR ALL REASONS
Argentina's Malbec wines have been stacking up quite a reputation in the UK, and a privileged few were given the opportunity to sample some at one of Argentina's outpost in London, the Gaucho restaurant in Piccadilly. Here, leading producer, Pascual Toso of the Mendoza region, offered a variety of white and red wines, all fine examples of the winemakers art, but it was the Malbecs that really stood out.
They were introduced by Paul Hobbs, international wine expert and consultant. Described by Forbes magazine as 'the Steve Jobs of wine', he has twice been named 'Wine Personality of the Year', honing his skills at Robert Mondavi in California and at Mouton Rothschild.He was instrumental in recognising the potential of the Malbec grape, and in nurturing its growth in what might have looked like unfriendly terroir but which he found was particularly rewarding.
“We saw huge potential in this largely overlooked Argentinian grape,” he explained, “and invested a great deal of time and knowledge in developing and growing it. It has been wonderful to see the UK introduced to and embracing Malbec.”
These rich, warm wines, so suitable to go with British beef and winter dishes, or just for sipping slowly by the fire, are also very reasonably priced for their quality, at around £10/£12 a bottle. Significantly, Marks & Spencer have sold out of their supply but there are others online and at independents.
A RUM DO FOR CHRISTMAS
Rum, once a drink associated with jolly jack tars, has benefited from the cult of cocktails, of which it is often the base, which in turn has lead to wider appreciation, and to demand for finer qualities.
Catering to that demand is the latest premier rum to arrive here this month, from top brand Ron Zacapa. This is the Reserva Limitada 2012, a rich blend of rums aged between 6 and 24 years.
Supplies are limited to a very few bars and to certain stockists, including Gerry's Wines & Spirits, The Whisky Exchange and Selfridges, where a bottle will sell at around £85.
Another new collection has just been launched by the House of Angostura. Angostura has long been known and appreciated for the medicinal effect of its bitter drink by those suffering a hang-over. Now, as the only rum-making distillery left in Trinidad, it has released Angostura No 1 rum for the higher end of the market. Just 20 cases have been allocated to the UK, so rum enthusiasts will need to move fast.
“We are already seeing huge interest from consumers," reports Alison Gibb, Angostura International Brand Manager, "and undoubtedly the popularity of quality approved rum is on the increase." From specialist stockists at £38.99.
AMBER LIQUID WINNER
THE Macallan Amber single malt has been chosen as Whisky of the Year by The Whisky Shop. Selected from over 300 whiskies carried by the shop, based upon a combination of customer choice, sales and recommendations from store managers, it was only launched earlier this year. With 22 stores, including a flagship store in Piccadilly, and online sales, The Whisky Shop is a leading world specialist in whisky, so this award carries some weight. Price of The Macallan Amber is £59.99. www.whiskyshop.com
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