MEETING OF ART AND TAILORING

London was awash with art happenings in October, and one bespoke tailoring house showed off its own arty connections with an extensive exhibition to coincide with the internationally acclaimed Frieze event.

L.G. Wilkinson presented works by Michel Würthle of Berlin in its St George Street shop, just around the corner from Savile Row. A motley crowd of international art buffs descended upon the tailor's for a preview party, many of them friends of the artist and quite a few customers of Wilkinson, appreciating the Austrian wine as well as the Würthle sketches.

Though Würthle trained as an artist and has an extensive portfolio, he is now best known as the proprietor of the Paris Bar in Berlin, legendary haunt of artists and other suitably raffish creative characters. Since he launched it in the 1960s, it has become a Berlin institution, attracting celebrities and tourists alike, and providing a vestige of the excitement of old Berlin.

Würthle's sketches have a similar style to the UK's Ralph Steadman, of cartoon fame. Many are inspired by the artist's own passion for fine clothes, evident in the suit orders he placed with Dennis Wilkinson.

Wilkinson's is now run by David Wilkinson, the fifth generation of Wilkinson tailors. He took over the company when Dennis died last year and though his career up until then had largely been in the world of finance and deal making, he has shown his tailoring DNA by taking on all customer fittings.

“One of my earliest memories is of handling my grandfather's shears at the age of three,” he recalls. “I was immersed in the tailoring world from an early age and though I went on to study mechanical engineering, it remained part of my life. “

He aimed to be an automobile engineer but by the time his studies were over so too was most of the British car industry. So he ended up in Mergers and Acquisition, which took him all over the world. “One year, I spent 328 nights in hotels.” No wonder he finds the tailoring world more relaxing, if not so profitable. “I'm able to work in it now for the love of it.”

Over the past five years of his father's life, David accompanied him on fitting trips, rekindling an appreciation of tailoring. “And he taught me his method of measuring, so I was capable of taking over on his death.” He is backed by the long experience of Bob Bigg, his father's main cutter and also coatmaker.

An engaging, courteous Englishman, David acknowledges that the transfer from his former career in finance to that of tailoring has not been without its ups and downs, but having been engaged in many industries as a deal-maker, feels they all have similar variations.

“Yes, I'm happy with the change,” he says. “I'm relaxed and enjoy the work. And I'm carrying on the family tradition.”

That is an important aspect to him. Not only is he maintaining the Wilkinson tradition but he has successfully returned the premises at 11 St George Street to a hive of tailoring activity, with another 4 bespoke firms based here, each with separate facilities. Importantly, he is able to provide security of tenure, as he holds a very long lease on the building – an advantage that many in Savile Row must envy.

He is kept busy, visiting Berlin 8 times a year, and also with customers in Austria, Switzerland and France. “No, I don't touch America – there are plenty of others who go there.” 80 per cent of his trade is for export and of the 20 per cent in the UK, many come from the City.

“We used to have many customers in the music world and diplomatic services, but very few now,” he explains. “Both are much less formal. Its the finacial sector, both at home and abroad, that wants formal suits today.”

The Würthle exhibition was sparked partly by David's acquaintance with the Contemporary Fine Arts Gallery in Berlin, which was responsible for organising the event, and by his father's friendship with Würthle.

“Father became an honorary member of the art circle that convened in the Paris Bar,” he says with some pride. “Though he didn't drink or smoke so much as they did, he could stay the pace and last till 5 in the morning. Many of them became our customers – though I have to admit that not all of them paid!”

He sees the exhibition as an opening salvo in a number of celebrations that will mark his family firm's 90th anniversary next year, which also marks the 60th anniversary of his father's first trip to Berlin.

“It became our important market and very much because they liked him. There are, after all, lots of tailors but you need to have a rapport with your tailor. Würthle and my father had that.”

From the top; Würthle work; classic Wilkinson jacket; David Wilkinson; and the late Dennis Wilkinson.