CUBA - GO NOW BEFORE IT CHANGES

Havana is an unlikely spot to have spawned an on-going descriptive phrase for a classic British style but nothing quite fits the bill like “Our Man in Havana” for a cream linen suit.

Immortalised by Alec Guinness in the film of Graham Green’s book of the same name, the linen  suit he wore as a representative of His Majesty’s government in pre-revolution Cuba was filmed against a backdrop of the Cuban capital. It illustrated a style favoured by other ‘Our Man’ civil servants around the tropical world, the sort of chaps who were kitted out by their Savile Row tailor before they set off for a spell of duty in hot climes.

Nowadays, such representatives may have lost their traditional style - and many, indeed, their tailor as well -  while post-revolution Havana had long since lost its glamourous reputation. But although we can’t say whether the former will recover an element of elegance, the latter is most definitely set to revive its former glory.

Havana and Cuba in general is on the cusp of change. Already relying upon tourism for much revenue, the numbers of visitors are increasing dramatically, topping  2,500,000 last year, with those from the UK in second place to Canada. Famous for Hemingway, Castro and Che Guevera, in just about that order, as well as Havana cigars and the Mojita cocktail, it packs a lot into its small island (half the size of Britain) just across the bay from Florida.

With Fidel Castro passing his 86th birthday this August, and some easing of US/Cuban relations already underway, old Cuban hands are saying go now, while the old Cuba still exists, before the demise of Castro sees the country undergo a swift and radical overhaul.

It is needed. The place has existed in something of a time warp,  a Communist outpost ostracised by its mighty American neighbour and largely cut off from Western developments. Havana, the once grand and beautiful city that attracted international film stars and society figures as well as gangsters and shady developers to its nightlife and casinos, has crumbled in many areas. Industry is limited, the people poor.

Yet set these disadvantages for the home crowd against the current attractions for visitors. Parts of the city are stunning, with wonderful old colonial buildings. There are fantastic beaches and little modern developments to spoil them. The people are friendly, the music great, and for car aficionados, the vintage models being driven around the streets display a rich benefit of being unable to import new ones.

Called ‘yank tanks’, these old Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Chevies and Fords date back to the 1950s, some lovingly maintained. If/when the U.S fully lifts sanctions, there should be a rapid export bonanza in these to American collectors.

British male visitors will want to take in a tour of one of the very many cigar-making plants, to see just how their favourite Havanas are handmade - though if they are expecting thighs to be on show they will be disappointed. See some fine ones though at Havana's Tropicana cabaret club, with a grand chorus line as part of its show. The heyday of this famous nightspot was in the 1950s, attracting the likes of Carmen Miranda, Josephine Baker, Nat King Cole and Yme Sumac – mega stars then, for younger readers. Rather more authentically Cuban now are the loads of local bars and salsa clubs where the music is great, the Mojitas not so expensive and the salsa irresistible.

It is probably sensible, at this stage, to go with a reputable travel agency, so that internal travel, excursions and hotels outside the capital may be organised by someone who knows the locale. With few hotels in the countryside, it is a question of staying at B & B places or hostels, so that prior knowledge of standards is worth having for those of us who like good facilities. The best months to go are January to April , while June to November are to be avoided in case of hurricanes.

Abercrombie & Kent is a reliably up-market travel arranger with experience in Cuba, which means they understand its vagaries. They are up-front with travellers, warning that “due to Cuba’s political and social history there is little emphasis on the supply of goods or the concept of service. Schedules change, reservations are not always honoured, petrol is scarce … a sense of humour and patience is an important prerequisite”.

All their trips are tailor-made. An example of an 11-day holiday that would take in Havana, Trinidad and the beach resort of Varadero, with tours and guides, would cost around £3,645 per person, based on  two adults sharing. www.abercrombiekent.co.uk/cuba/

Kuoni will also tailor a holiday to requirements. The Nacional de Cuba hotel in Havana, favoured by the famous over the years, is one possibility for a starting base. From there, they arrange tours of the country. These may take in lovely old colonial towns, a cigar factory, beaches, countryside and salsa music spots for a real flavour of the people. www.kuoni.co.uk

Photographs at the top from Abercrombie & Kent show the vintage cars in Havana, one of the unspoilt beaches and a central market. Immediately above, snapped on a Kuoni tour, this colourful lady, and above, a 'yank tank'.