ALL SEASONS IN A DAY'S WORK

It is an immutable law of the mainstream British clothing scene that just as shops go into Autumn mode, so a late season heatwave arrives to mock those warm garments on display. For tailors, seasonal dictates are even more confusing.

They may be stitching away busily on an Autumn suit or a Winter’s coat for a London customer but have to switch to a lightweight number for someone from down under or a silk jacket for tropical climes.

With customers from all over the globe, variety is the spice of the tailoring life.

Featherweight cloths for summer have lost some of their popularity, much to the tailors delight. Though they may be desirable in really hot climates, such delicate fabrics just don't have the guts for a tailored suit to keep its shape and of course crease more readily.

Blends of wool with silk or linen provide lightness with stability. And modern developments mean that there are plenty of pure wool cloths in reasonable weights that are comfortable for summer and spring.

Tweeds are forever popular but now with so much more variety in weights and finishes, so that they have year-round appeal. And luxury blends provide some wonderfully soft qualities.

Velvet is back in vogue, doubling up not only for seasons but for day or evening wear.

Unstructured or unlined jackets are more favoured now in the Row than in the past, taped seams ensuring firmness. And though winter styles keep to fully canvased and padded construction, a lot lighter and more supple finishes are being made.

The styles pictured here show some of the current variety.

Jacket at top is by Davies & Son, in a light silk fabric, and is unlined. An immaculate blazer style, with peaked lapels, this is being ordered for winter holiday wear. Those who like to plan ahead may remember it for next spring. It may be ordered with lining, and other colours are available, as well as patterns.

From light silk to a heavy double breasted winter overcoat, above, by Mark Powell, noted for making for gangster movie stars.

This is a suitably macho coat, made in a wool/alpaca mix with brown velvet top collar, with wide peaked lapels and deep cuffs. Its the sort of coat that the original gangster movie star, George Raft, would have liked - younger readers can find him in 1940s films.

Above, a jacket from Ede & Ravenscroft. This is in a 14oz wool/angora tweed, a blend that gives a soft handle. With a herringbone pattern, button-two, it remains the classic sports jacket style, a wardrobe staple for all seasons in the variable British climate, especially for the country, as here, with check shirt.

Right, a new field coat from Henry Poole. Designed for autumn/winter, it is clearly another design suitable for all seasons.

Style name Chepstow, it is to be available on the Poole website, and has a regular fit and adjustable back. There is a basic coat block but otherwise customers may specify cloth, lining, pockets, fastenings etc, as in the bespoke process.

Its stablemate is Bamford, with slim fit, action back and half belt.