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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

SILK CAPTIVES PRODUCE TOP LUXURY

Mulberry silk is a key ingredient in Holland & Sherry’s latest luxury cloth, Cashique, blended with cashmere and super fine wool. And mulberry silk is a very special silk indeed, created by silkworms that only eat mulberry leaves.

Raised in captivity, according to the Silk webhollandstextiles.jpgsite, albeit in pampered conditions, with an unlimited supply of mulberry leaves and no loud noises or nasty odours from fish or human allowed, the tiny worm builds up strength over a month of gorging to spin its cocoon of silk. Over three to eight days, it will spin a silk filament that can be up to 1,600 yards long. And that’s it  – kaput for the silk worm, as it isn’t allowed to hatch into a moth, as that would damage the cocoon’s silk filament.

One can’t help wondering if any try to escape their captivity or whether there may be a case for a mulberry silkworm protection society.

But there is no doubt that silk from this worm turns to gold once applied to good use in the textile field.

Holland & Sherry’s Cashique shows just how special is its contribution, with a range of jacketing and suiting cloths that have a luxurious handle and fluid drape. hollandtwo.jpgMulberry silk is rounder, finer and smoother than other silks and combined with quality cashmere and super fine wool, the end result is cloth that has a lustrous appearance and good insulation properties, making it suitable for all climates.

Mohair has been gaining in popularity over a number of seasons, and this is another feature of the Holland & Sherry selection for spring/summer. Their cloths use a summer kid mohair, which represents the first clip from a mohair goat, making it the softest, finest quality. Blended with a merino wool, it gives cloth that is lustrous and durable as well as being crease and soil resistant, and suitable for hot and cold climates.

Other inclusions in the latest Holland & Sherry collection include some Super 150s lightweight worsted wool cavalry twills and some Super 130s luxury worsted jacketings, in the Crystal Springs range.  See at your tailor’s.

 

GANGSTER STYLE THIS SUMMER

Summer has a grey tinge in the Scabal cloth collection but it is a nice light grey in combination with white, light blue and beige, and maybe offset by a sunny yellow. With an extra lift to these lightweight cloths by use of iridescent yarns, in discreet patterns, they provide a crisp, cool look scabaljckt.jpgfor what is to be hoped will be a warm English summer.

Their own collection of suits and jackets shows them off in styling that brings a touch of old style glamour to bear on contemporary casual.

Forties films stars such as George Raft and James Cagney wore such suits as this one in the gangster roles that were their forté. Gangsters then knew the benefit of presenting a well tailored and respectable image to the world.

And it revives the chalk stripe formality of the 1940s demob suit,but with a more relaxed shoulderline and gentle waist suppression. Hats and two-tone shoes would be period accessories.

 

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Spring 09 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Style 1 - The English Gentleman - send your vote
   
contact Style 2 - Refurbishment for Savile Row favourites
   
contact Style 3 - Smartness needed to beat recession
   
contact Style 4 - Cut a dash in a long overcoat
   
contact Style 5 - 50th anniversary at the palace
   
contact Style 6 - List of recommended lines by SR
   
contact Grooming and Health - Massage for twosomes
   
contact Top Textiles - fabulous cloths in luxury fibres
   
contact Drinks /Dining - British top wine importers
   
contact Culture - Slum Dog prompts investment interest
   
contact Gifts - Retrieve old treasures and revamp
   
contact Travel - Polo the latest hotel attraction
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     

:: LOOKING TO 2010 ::

 

 

 

CHOOSING the cloths that will be suiting men around the world next Spring/Summer were international buyers attending the Premiere Vision textile event in Paris in February.

This textile-fest attracts exhibitors and visitors from all markets, with the British contingent of just 24 mills representing the cream of what remains of our  textile industry.

They benefited from a preoccupation with quality and authenticity and British tradition, as seen on the fashion catwalks of Milan and Florence earlier this year, and also from the value of the pound.

Taylor & Lodge, who recently starred in the Quantum of Solace film, as seen in the suit made for Bond, presented a new cashmere/silk/linen quality, and a mohair/silk/linen for blazers.  At Reid & Taylor, a Super 210s suiting is aimed at those looking for top luxury. Abraham Moon blended wool with silk and linen in re-worked traditional patterns.

Bulmer & Lumb points to more colour in menswear cloths, even in classic suitings. Lighter tones are featured by Hield, in greys, blues and beige, with a new high twist suiting introduced. Lighter shades too from Moxon, in conventional weights, as seen in their fancy patterns.  And plenty of colour in the textured tweeds of the Neill Johnstone range from the Scottish Borders.