YOU NEED TO LOOK SMART IN A RECESSION

Expect to see a smartening up in appearances of the general hoi polloi as the recession deepens.  All very well looking tatty and down-at-heel while the good times roll but in a recession, and for those looking for a job, appearance matters once more: Or, as the late editor of The Tailor & Cutter, John Taylor, was fond of saying, noone needs a tailcoat so much as the man with a hole in his pants.

In Savile Row, the mood is surprisingly upbeat (see also below). Recent successful trips to the US and other markets have persuaded tailors that their customers seem determined to put on a stylish front to the world – even if some have reduced the amount of their orders.

And though the classic, dark, business suit remains the favourite choice, orders for tweedy versions and jackets and trousers show that Savile Row customers are taking a relaxed approach to Spring/Summer 09.

That most classic of Row houses, Anderson & Sheppard, has made this single breasted tweed sports jacket with matching vest in lovat green tweed with orange, green and brown overcheck.

At one time, this would have been seen as solely an outfit for the country, but now such tweed jackets, and sometimes waistcoats , are popular with young townies, who may wear them with a polo neck or casual shirt and jeans.

Another classicist house, Henry Poole,  produced the well shaped jacket, left, in what is quite a colourful cloth for Savile Row, another with a large overcheck.

Here again, there are country connotations, because brown at one time was thought incorrect for town. But it was the City and banking world's uniform of black and grey that eclipsed brown shades, when they were in fact always perfectly acceptable as town wear.

Showing a paler cloth, below, is this slim suit jacket from Huntsman, again with a light overcheck. This lean shape, so typical of Huntsman, prevails in the young fashion world for Spring/Summer 09, as seen at the top fashion collections on the international catwalks.

The slimmed-down silhouette is also having its effect upon accessories. Ties have gone skinnier (see Joss Hartman on the preceding page), shirt collars need to be smaller, and shoes favour a long, lean, pointed shape.

But these fashion details have limited effect upon the classical elegance of Savile Row. Lapels may be a shade narrower, waists a little more suppressed, trousers on the leaner side and sans pleats - but few customers want an eye-catching fashion outfit that will be out of favour in a short time.

Savile Row suits are made to last out a recession.

BEST DRESSED EVENT IN TOWN

Despite economic gloom, snowy weather and the street to the Merchant Taylors’ Hall in the City being closed off, a full house of tailors turned up for their annual Master Tailors’ Benevolent Association annual dinner at this impressive venue earlier this year.

Resplendent in the finest dinner suits that money can buy, the atmosphere was distinctly upbeat, with reports - in somewhat surprised tones - that business was really quite good.

Some put this down to the drop in value of the pound making the price of a Savile Row suit considerably more attractive to overseas buyers. Others recognise that the extent of the financial problems has yet to have its full effect, while others are just happy that customers are still arriving.

Poole’s might be expected to ride out the recession more smoothly than some of the smaller firms, with Simon Cundey optimistic about his coming trip to the US. Richard Anderson has just returned from a trip to New York and came back very pleased with results. Peter Harvey of Fallon & Harvey (see right)  and Alan Bennett of Davies & Son have also recently returned from a trip to the States that “was surprisingly good”. Ken Austen of Benson & Clegg attributed their wide range of stock as a factor in keeping sales up, tailoring orders augmented by interest in an extensive range of buttons, cuff links, insignia and ties, as well as shirts.

And new President of the MTBA, Cameron Buchanan,right, was jubilant that a record amount for the charity had been raised during the course of the evening

Relative newcomer to the Row, Peter Potkansky, attended his first MTBA evening, wearing this example of his tailoring style, above.