SAVILE ROW THE MOVIE STAR
Savile Row stars in the latest spy movie to hit the circuit, its street sign, ‘SAVILE ROW W1’, blazoned across the silver screen in ‘Kingsman – the Secret Service’, an enjoyable parody of the Bond genre in which the Row plays a central part.
Our hero, in the streamlined form of Colin Firth as Harry Hart, spyman extraordinaire within the secretive Kingsman organisation, is immaculately suited throughout in classic Savile Row style. His impeccable db remains unshaken by Harry’s violent exertions, his tie undisturbed.
His tailor’s, looking suspiciously like Huntsman under the banner of Kingsman, provides the entrance to his spy centre via the fitting room. And the young protégé he takes under his wing has to be inaugurated into the spy world by being kitted out in inimitable Savile Row style.
Colin Firth, aka Harry, above, outside Huntsman, where much of Kingsman was filmed.
Bond of course is also an example of lethal gent in sheep’s clothing (wool cloth being the choice for a Savile Row suit). The suits for Sean Connery in the original Bond movie were made by Anthony Sinclair, but with the development of ‘placement’ in the movie world, other makers prepared to pay for the privilege took over in subsequent films, many of them foreign. Ian Fleming would not have approved.
So it is to be welcomed that this movie’s makers recognised that any spyman hoping to cut the mustard and appear as an English gentleman must have his suits made in the Row. What better front for his entrance to the Kingsman centre than the fitting room, the inner sanctum that tailors treat as confidentially as the confessional.
And while Anthony Sinclair saw limited return for clothing the fine figure of Connery, a Kingsman collection is already available online through that thrusting online giant, Mr Porter. Similar suits to those worn in the film, as well as the accessories, may be ordered, allowing movie goers to instantly take inspiration from Harry and co.
This is the result of a partnership between the film’s director, Matthew Vaughn, and Mr Porter, bringing a new dimension to ‘placement’. Instead of charging other brands to include their merchandise on set, this arrangement means spin-off rewards remain with the Kingsman partnership
A classic striped business suit above, from the Kingsman collection on Mr Porter. The accessories are also available, this umbrella presumably not so lethal as the one in the film, nor the shoes with daggers - though such might come in handy on the Tube. Below, velvet dinner jacket with shawl collar, worn with tartan trews.
Vaughn saw the potential to create a commercial collection from the designs for the film’s costumes by award-winning costume designer Arianne Philips, and with Mr Porter believes he has chosen the right partner “to launch a new brand on a global level”.
Up until this move, Mr Porter has provided a highly successful retail site for a range of top brands and designers. This is their first own-brand collection.
“This is a hugely significant development for Mr Porter,” says Toby Bateman, buying director at Mr Porter. “Men’s style has always been inspired by the look of leading men in film but this is the first time that the costumes for a movie have been conceived with the idea of selling those clothes to the film’s audience.
“You could literally be sitting in the cinema watching this film and shopping the looks from your mobile device or tablet as you watch.”
Quite apart from missing some of the action, this is hardly in keeping with the time-honoured ritual involved in ordering a Savile Row suit. But if it gets more men interested in wearing something from Savile Row, albeit initially a readymade, that must be good for the Row and its own future.
With more tailors offering ready-to-wear collections online – Richard Anderson, Charlie Allen, Edward Sexton, Gieves & Hawkes to name a few – the Row is aware that it can reach a wider audience on the world wide web. It may have been late in getting on, but promotion such as this film provides, can only help to extend its reach.
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