LCM - TAILORING STARS

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No such reticence evident in the storming catwalk show put on by Tom Baker. Following hard upon the heels of the decorous English Gentleman affair at Apsley House, and in another of London’s iconic places, the 100 Club in Oxford Street, it sent a steady stream of  dark-eyed, long haired models down the catwalk to thunderous heavy rock’n roll/punk interspersed with sublime opera.

Baker is one of the few tailors now whose bespoke tailoring style reflects his own – long, lean, a touch of rock’n roll funereal. Lean jackets and frock coats, many with leather trims, lean pants, black on black with the occasional grey, gave an unequivocal style statement.

Lapped up by an audience strong on musicians and inveterate hipsters, it hardly reflected the classic Savile Row image, yet vouchsafed the Row’s ability to make whatever the customer may want. The clothes showed off Baker’s bespoke credentials, especially in a jacket with sleek leather wholeback, and a long grey overcoat with fur collar.

The 100 Club was a fitting setting for this show.  Such legends as Muddy Waters,  Louis Armstrong, The Who, Kinks, Rolling Stones, Sex Pistols , Oasis and Chuck Berry, to name but a few, have played here since its doors opened in 1942 as the Feldman Jazz Club.  Such was the outcry and the support it received when threatened with closure a few years back, that a saviour came forward in the shape of a Nike subsidiary to ensure it continues. 

Earlier on the same day, another Savile Row denizen, Chester Barrie, opted for a static showcase at what was once a hive of industry making sets for the London theatre world, now a lofty art gallery just off Tin Pan Alley.

Chester Barrie has long been recognised as the premier British ready-to-wear and made-to-measure brand and this year is celebrating its 80th  anniversary.  Accordingly, some designs reflected details from the '30s period and music from that era accompanied the clink of glasses.

The '30s is often referred to as the Edwardian era, though strictly speaking that ended in 1910 when Edward Vll died. The fashions went on, encompassing substantial, often db suits with wide lapels, matching vests with lapels, full trousers and some sleeve cuffs - and such were featured in the Chester Barrie collection. A brown striped suit is a somewhat daring inclusion, and grey flannel, usually included here, has extra appeal for 2015.

Another to reflect an Edwardian influence was Ede & Ravenscroft, granddaddy of the tailors in dating back to 1689. Designer Michael McGrath was able to look back at the company's extensive archives for inspiration and came up with a classic British look, double breasteds favoured, wide peaked lapels and slightly fuller trousers. And straight from the archives came an assertivee great overcoat in a herringbone Donegal tweed, its quilted burgundy lining promising to keep the wearer warm in the chilliest conditions. Such statement overcoats will be needed for later this year, whatever the weather.

Of the rest: today’s enfant terrible of the Row, Alexander McQueen, came up with trousers cropped at the calf, quite loose;  Paul Smith’s show was noteworthy for acrobatics and rap that showed classic tailoring isn’t just for the sedentary; Casely-Hayford had a good mix of well made jackets and coats with distinctive details and colours; outsize coats, big lapels, and loose 1930s/40s trousers by Tautz;  Belstaff has moved on from its classic biking casuals to a full range of stylish leather and sheepskin; and a good solid Ulster overcoat was shown by Gieves & Hawkes in a heavy herringbone tweed, hopefully Donegal.

From the top, two lean styles from Tom Baker; suits with wide lapels by Chester Barrie; right, db grey flannel suit from Ede & Ravenscroft.

For snapshot videos from the shows, click on the links on the preceding page.