GOING BOLDLY INTO SPRING

March 20 - Spring Equinox

On the day that Spring is officially sprung, it seems that the icy fingers of Winter are determined to cling on, making it seem that we are never to emerge from the cacoon of cumbersome clothing that has encased us for so long. But the birds in the park are courting, and the buds struggling to open, so preparations are underway, as they must be too in Savile Row.

Depending upon the tailor, and how busy they are, it takes an average of a month to six weeks to make a suit or jacket, so it is surely not too much to hope that by then there is every reason to wish to be in England.

Nothing like putting on a new jacket or suit as the April showers give promise of the May flowers, even if it does have to be worn under a raincoat: Such is the capricious nature of the English climate that has fashioned our clothing.

Soft English flannel is a good choice for this year. Grey is usual for this cloth, and is also back in favour. Bold checks for jackets will brighten up the place, and in luxury cashmere or fine wool have inherent elegance. Lighter weight tweeds provide some interesting colour and texture. And the ubiquitous blazer, or rowing jacket as some prefer to call it, continues in its classic navy form but bold stripes and colours are younger, more joyful and perfectly acceptable for this style, indeed reflect how it started life way back in the 1800s.

The jacket at top is clearly not for the man who lacks confidence. This is indeed a bold check in a bold double breasted style. James Cottrell at Welsh & Jefferies has a number of customers who like to be somewhat extrovert, and this one, in a wool cloth, should certainly satisfy that desire.

At right, a classic grey flannel with a chalk stripe in a single button, single breasted suit jacket from Alan Bennett at Davies & Son. Demobilisation suits of the 1940s were offered in just such a cloth. The stripes emphasise its length and can have a slimming effect, as well as being a good choice for those lacking in stature.

The jacket. left, looks as though it might be flannel butis in fact in a tweed. Made by Richard Anderson, it comes from the latest collection of Scottish tweeds that he is offering, many exclusive to him, this one woven in Ardalanish in wool from native Hebridean sheep. In a 10oz weight, it comes in a range of patterns and colourways, some in the natural wool shades.

There are also richly coloured Shetland tweeds in 10oz weight, with a looser structure, and some from Elgin, in 170z. That may seem a trifle heavy to some but not for the British climate.

The bold check, right, is the sort of check that has traditionally been seen in the British countryside. Tailored by Benson & Clegg, it is in a hardy 150z tweed from the Dugdale White Rose Saxony collection. This includes other tweeds, and twills, first launched in 1911, so ripe for being reappreciated.

From their base in the heart of Yorkshire's top cloth region, in Huddersfield, Dugdale provides some of the very best in British suitings and jacketings and Benson & Clegg have worked with them to relaunch these old/new patterns. The jacket, here, in its checked rural colouring, is true to its country origins which are now just as acceptable for town.

And no Spring selection would be complete without a blazer - and a bold one at that. It comes from Crombie, not one of Savile Row's bespoke houses but a long established British brand.

Initially, it was a cloth house, founded in 1805, and became particularly famous for its wool overcoatings, and eventually coats. The Crombie overcoat became known as the 'British Warm' when worn by officers during WWll, and not only British troops but Americans appreciated it in the Second World War. Now, the company makes a wide range of clothes and accessories, including its trademark covert coat, and has a made-to-measure service.

This blazer, or rowing jacket as they more correctly call it, shows the company has moved with the times. In a navy, red and white striped wool and cotton fabric, its a blend of tradition and modern, with its lean shape, natural shoulder and single breasted fastening.