BRIGHT FOOT FORWARD

How long can Savile Row diehards resist the lure of the new footwear? While classic black Oxfords, traditional brogues and the occasional monk strap or Chelsea boot may fall within established Row standards, the joyous variety of shoe designs now on the market provides a much more colourful and original foundation for those with style pretensions.

In the 1970s, designer and tailor, Tom Gilbey, had models wearing white plimsolls - as they were then called - walk the catwalk in his Savile Row suits. Since then, trainers and other casual footwear have become ubiquitous among the young, but formal shoes have remained resolutely restrained.

The designs shown here illustrate that formal doesn't have to mean dark, plain, ordinary. And as shoeshine artist at the Hilton, Steven Skippen, has commented (see feature), spending a lot on a suit, and then opting for mediocre footwear is a crying shame. Formal footwear is ripe to come in from the cold.

Bespoke shoes range from the high hundreds to thousands of pounds and take weeks, months to be ready. Though not fully bespoke, the shoes here are all from makers dedicated to combining innovative styling with a high quality of make, and with much hand craftwork involved.

A ship's bell rings each time a pair of handmade shoes are completed at the shoe firm of Govan, on the banks of the Clyde in Scotland. Hard by where so many great ships were built, including the Cutty Sark and the QE2, this is a nod to the craftsmanship of the region, and their own links that go back over 80 years to shoemaking here.

This new company caused quite a stir at the men's fashion fair in Milan earlier this year with some of its bright colourways and distinctive designs. But they also make completely classic numbers. What they all have in common is meticulous make, with up to 50 parts and over 100 operation going into these handmade shoes.

Above, right, Govan's brilliant scarlet and blue lace-up in leather and suede. Beneath it correspondent style Lyle Oxford, and above left, sleek and elegant blend of tweed and leather in style Arkwright. Prices from around £350.

Another British name attracting attention in Italy was Harrys of London, showing a new shoe collection that not only had colour on tops but on soles too. These designs may look quite classic above, but have bright bottoms (as seen at top).

Harrys combines the traditional Goodyear Welted make with their own technology that provides a cushion of thin rubber in the handmade sole, for lightness and flexibility.

The rich colours used in the collection have been developed exclusively for them at tanneries throughout Europe. And at the top end is a range of designs in alligator, retailing from £2,000 up to £3,500 for an ankle boot.

For a really soft driving style, Harrys hand-sewn mocassin shoes, left, are made in kudu suede, with specially designed soles for grip. Price £295.

Oliver Sweeney created his own special last when he launched his company in 1989, based upon considerable research into what the foot needs. This provides the basis for his extensive collection.

For an extra personal touch, the latest idea from him is tattooing. The tattooist can apply any message or design on a pair of shoes, as in the Union flag shown on this pair of brogues, right. See the online site for details.

For Summer, the airy pair, left, are from the Matthew Miller collection at Sweeney, in white calfskin leather, with side cut-outs and grosgrain laces, price £350

The classic correspondent shoe is given a new look in a variety of colourways, featuring a light sole with Goodyear welted construction that ensures long lasting comfort. This one, below left, is style Abrahams, in navy and burgundy, and sells at £225.

And for the modern cycling brigade, Sweeney has added a casual collection in fine of leathers, lots of colourways, and with meticulous attention to cycling needs. This pair, right, is smart enough to stride straight into the boardroom.