STYLES FOR A BLAZING SUMMER

Taking inspiration from colonial classics - blazers, seersucker suits, linen versions and pukka shorts are the styles for men this Summer in Savile Row bespoke and Jermyn Street

Mad dogs and Englishmen might go out in the midday sun but they did so properly dressed - the Englishmen, that is -  according to the standards of those colonialists upon whom Noel Coward based his song.

Nowaday, a pith helmet, long-sleeved safari jacket, and ‘shorts’ reaching below the knee to meet high and thick socks might seem pretty comical. Yet compare this wardrobe with today’s popular casual summer garb of baseball cap, hooded sweatshirt, tight jeans, even tighter lycra shorts and  footwear somewhat ironically (given most of the wearers’ physiques) described as ‘trainers’ and perhaps those colonialists weren’t so mad after all.

This summer, whether for England or more tropical climes, the colonialist style influence shows its elegant appeal and practicality.

The eyecatching blazer, right, lives up to its name. The term 'blazer' comes from the early boating jackets worn by students at Lady Margaret's College in Cambridge, so brightly coloured that they were called 'blazers'. It was strengthened further when sailors on HMS Blazer wore blue and white striped jackets.

By Charles Tyrwhitt, this dazzler is guaranteed to stand out in the crowd at this season's events. The cloth is woven exclusively for the company in Yorkshire and is available in rather more restrained colourways. Price £150. A new generation are also liking the panama. www.ctshirts.co.uk

Seersucker, that crinkly cotton material, was taken up by British colonialists in hot climes as a cool, practical option, and brought back to the UK to become a staple in the Englishman's summer wardrobe, for summer jackets and later suits.

The crinkle means that it doesn't stick to the flesh, and that it retains air, and doesn't need ironing. However, that does not mean that a beautifully tailored seersucker jacket won't benefit from a light press. Some unlined versions may be washed - not this one.

By Huntsman, it is seen here is in quintessentially English mode against a cricket score board. In classic blue and white stripe, worn with white trousers, it will grace the Long Room at Lords. Contact poppy.charles@h-huntsman.co.uk.

A more formal dark blazer teamed with grey flannel trousers was once upon a time de riguer summer wear for English men. The current revival of this classic is best not worn with such trousers by anyone not wishing to look like an old duffer. Jeans, chinos, needlecords, tapered smart pants, even shorts will be fine. Flannels may be acceptable for more formal wear, as pictured.

This blazer with classic brass buttons and worn with bow tie and formal shirt shows how it may be formalised for more dressy evening wear. By Gieves & Hawkes. Contact Natalie Sykes on nsykes@gievesandhawkes.com for details.

A more fitted version is shown below, with formal shirt and tie, and teamed with jeans for a more relaxed image.

It comes from Timothy Everest's latest collection, photographed by Alistair Macpherson. The shape here is more emphasised, with wider peak lapels and waist suppression. Lee Rekert on bespoke@timothyeverest.co.uk for more information.

The blazer's affinity with the naval reefer is clear to see in these double breasted styles. Originally, the reefer was double breasted to fasten on the side, so that buttons would not be caught in the rigging on sailing ships. It went on to have eight buttons, fastening four, while the traditional blazer had six, fastening two. Now, you pays your money and takes your choice.

Not all colonialists stuck with classic styles. Some appreciated and took up local garments, much to the disapproval of their peers.

The Nehru jacket is one such, with its own well tailored line but with a stand collar that allows it to be worn on its own, without a shirt.

In cool, unlined cotton, this version comes from A.J.Hewitt. Hewitt took in Airey & Wheeler, famous old tailoring firm that kitted out many of Britain's representatives sent to hot countries around the globe, and continues to provide a specialised service in lightweights. Ravi Tailor will give details at ravi@aj-hewitt.co.uk

The classic linen suit has benefited from the use of new, less creasable linens, and from linen mixed with cotton or silk. Though some still prefer the crumpled look of pure linen, it needs to be a 'fresh' crumpling, not simply the result of repeated wearings without a press, or the wearer ends up just looking like a slob.

The crisp example, below, mixes linen with cotton to provide a material that holds its shape. From Ede & Ravenscroft, it shows a relaxed one-button jacket, teamed here with matching slim trousers. It would look just as good with jeans or other casual trousers. Go to www.edeandravenscroft.co.uk

The safari remains out of favour in the men's field but can be expected to return soon, as it is included in women's fashion ranges for this summer.

Crisp shorts, as favoured by District Commissioners throughout the days of the Raj, may be ordered in Savile Row. One tailor has recently made a bespoke pair for a Middle Eastern customer, which shows that bespoke standards don't end at the classic suit. See our new SR Specials section.