MIRACLE CURES IN 700 YEAR OLD DRINK
Did you know that Armagnac, reputed to be France’s oldest spirit, makes gallstones disappear? It also lays claim to being a cure for gout, stops tears running, and eases headaches if rubbed on the head.
But perhaps its most arresting effect, detailed in a document that dates back 700 years, is that ‘frequent anointment of a paralysed member will render it to its normal state’. No wonder it is also said to ‘render men joyous above all’.
These attributes were revealed at a suitably joyous celebration of Armagnac’s 700th anniversary at the Connaught Hotel in London this Spring.
Some 12 companies producing the golden liquid from the Gascony region presented their finest during an afternoon-long tasting session, followed by a long and jolly reception with Armagnac cocktails, followed by a banquet at which only Armagnac was served throughout.
While the rest of us tottered off into the night, the sturdy representatives from Armagnac doubtless continued to enjoy their product deep into the small hours, safe in the knowledge that it ‘enlivens the spirit’ if ignoring the ‘partaken in moderation’.
Prior Vital Dufour is the clergyman, scientist and doctor of the town of Eauze in Gascony, who recorded Armagnac’s virtues, documenting 40 of them in 1310. He referred to it as Aygue Ardente, the local eau-de-vie, later named after its region of production, Armagnac, in the south west of France. A facsimile of his ancient text, an edition now kept in the Vatican’s library, is travelling with the Armagnac delegation on its promotional tour, lending pious authority to their own belief in its superior qualities.
Unlike those producing the major brandy names, Armagnac is mainly made by small, family concerns that are passionate about their product - and drink it not just for all its many qualities described by the good prior but because they like it.
It clearly helped one of their ancestors, the d'Artagnan of Musketeers fame. And the Musketeers live on in the present-day company of Armagnac Musketeers, which boasts many celebrated figures in its 3,400-strong body.
The latest to be admitted on the evening at the Connaught was our own Delia Smith (seen here wearing her Musketeers sash), chosen because she is a fan of the spirit and uses it in her recipes. Quite an acknowledgement for a British cook from the French.
At top, a bottle from the House of Delord, run by the Delord family, where all bottles are sealed by hand and where hand written labels may be personalised to order.
A tour of the Armagnac region, sampling the various brands, would be a nice way of appreciating its complexities but it is widely available in wine shops in the UK, including Waitrose. It sells from around £30 up to £6000 for special bottles. www.armagnac.fr
WORLD'S OLDEST WHISKY PIPED IN
A precious bottle of whisky was reverently piped into Edinburgh Castle this Spring, when the world’s oldest whisky was presented before a privileged gathering of whisky aficionados.
The Mortlach 70 year old Speyside single malt whisky from Gordon & MacPhail is a golden liquid indeed. It comes from a cask filled in 1938, emptied and bottled exactly 70 years later, and now launched as the first in a series of extremely rare malt whiskies to be released by Gordon & MacPhail under its ‘Generations’ brand.
Founded in 1895, this company is known to have some of the oldest and rarest malt whiskies in the world and is now run by the grandsons of the James Urquhart who laid down the Mortlach.
Matured in a Spanish oak, ex-bodega sherry hogshead cask, it comes in a tear-shaped hand-blown crystal decanter (above) with an elegant silver stopper. The cask yielded just 54 full sized decanter bottles (70cl) and 162 small versions (20cl), which are to sell from £10,000 and £2,500 each – but given the rarity value of this very special whisky, demand from world-wide collectors is likely to push those prices high.
“This is a very special day for us,” said David and Michael Urquhart, joint managing directors of Gordon & MacPhail at the Edinburgh Castle presentation, "and one we’ve literally been anticipating for generations.”
For more information go to www.gordonandmacphail.com.
SUITABLY WARMING FOR SUMMER
Such is the power of cocktails at present that all spirits are being promoted for their cocktail and punch mixing abilities, to compete with the dominant vodka.
This includes Courvoisier, the UK's top brandy choice, more associated with its warming qualities than as a summer refresher. Now it is being suggested as a base for a summer punch.
Take 3 parts Courvoisier Exclusif, 2 parts cranberry juice, 1.5 parts berry liquer and mix well. Pour over strawberries, orange slices and ice cubes in a punch bowl, top up with rose wine, then serve in small tumblers with an orange slice, strawberry and mint.
Alternatively, for a standard chilly English summer's day, stay indoors with a warming glass of undiluted Courvoisier XO Imperial, left. This is a blend of 40 cognacs, aged for up to 35 years, retail around £96. Courvoisier Exclusif around £29.
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