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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

MALE PEACOCK RETURNS AS MEN GO FOR BLING

Having mastered cosmetics, men have now moved on to jewellery. Just as sales of grooming aids (make up) and cosmetic chloboy.jpgsurgery treatments have soared for men in recent years, so male jewellery is now on the up, as younger men indulge in all sorts of bling.

According to consumer analysts Mintek, sales have jumped 12% between 2003 and 2007 to reach a staggering £275 million, gaining 11% of the jewellery market. A few short years ago, the majority of sober suited customers of Savile Row would have looked aghast at any man bedecked with trinkets, viewing such practice as a sure sign that he was suspect. But now that old inhibitions have been breached, we are seeing a new era of decoration emerging for men.

This revives the ages-old male desire to play the peacock. Throughout history, swashbuckling figures, mighty warriors, leaders and lesser folks who could afford it have indulged in fabulous necklaces, huge rings, armbands, brooches, ornate belts and any other forms of decoration that could be created, all adding to their prestige and attraction.

Quite why we went through such a long period of unadorned plainness, from around the mid 19th century to towards the end of the last, is a mystery. But expect to see more and more chaps, even Savile Row-suited ones, sporting neckchains, pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings and bejeweled pins in a rush to embrace glittering decorations.

Recognising this development, jewellery designer Chlobo has introduced a men’s collection, Chloboy.

“The majority of men are no longer afraid to go against traditional masculine ideals,” she announced. “Instead they are developing into savvy, fashion-forward thinking individuals. We think ChloBoy captures that rebellion perfectly.”

She has created a mix of bracelets, necklaces and rosary beads, made from a combination of either silver, antique black coral or black onyx. See them on www.chlo-bo.co.uk/store.

 

OUT IN THE COUNTRY WITH BAGS OF STYLE

Setting out across the heather with a bird in hand and prepared for two in the bush, this game fellow carries the right sort of bag in which to put his brace – a countrybag.jpgChapman bag. And like a bespoke suit, it has been hand cut and crafted.

The John Chapman company has been making bags for those who engage in British country sports for some 100 years.  Anyone can get up a bag to look as though it is fit for purpose but Chapman bags can be relied upon to do the job for which they are designed.

They offer game bags, fishing bags, cartridge bags and rambler bags; bags for salmon, bags for artists, bags for bass and bags for trout, indeed bags to cover all sorts of game and terrain, as well as others for travel, leisure and business.

“Customers sometimes send us their bags back after many years' hard use for us to renew or repair,” chief executive Daniel Chamier told SR, “because they have formed a personal bond with that bag.”

Which points up an interesting declension between the sexes: Women buy bags in much the same way and frequency as they buy shoes; men treasure old versions of both.  Vive la difference.

Made by craftsmen in the lovely Lake District of England, the material for each bag is hand cut and then constructed using traditional methods. And for those who can’t find quite the design they want within the extensive collection that Chapman offers, there is a bespoke service to cater for individual customer specifications, a service that is popular with Savile Row customers.

All materials used are natural, most in cotton canvas, some in Scottish tweed, with solid brass trims and  leather fittings. See the full collection on www.chapmanbags.com

 

HELLO SAILOR - THE BLAZER'S BACK

Its Sailor Ahoy in the womenswear shops, as they go overboard for a nautical theme. And where the ladies go the lads andersonblazer.jpgusually following.

Already, blazers are being featured in leading collections and other naval lines, such as the reefer, matelot sweaters and duffle jackets will be emerging for Spring/Summer.

The classic blazer may be navy and double breasted but Richard Anderson has come up with this green version with single brass button fastening. Traditionalists may baulk at the colour but in fact the original blazers were brightly coloured, worn by university boating crews. Only later did navy become the established shade.

Worn here with formal shirt and tie, this and others will undoubtedly be worn casually with jeans and open-necked shirt or sweater.

 

 

 

 
 

Spring 2010 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Style 1 - No Sewbiz like Showbiz - Savile Row's starry customers
   
contact Style 2 - Male peacock returns - as men go for Bling
   
contact Style 3 - Have needle, will travel - travelling tailors
   
contact Style 4 - Anderson and Sheppard - grandee moves into the spotlight
   
contact Style 5 - Male Glamour - tailors dress up for their annual dinner
   
contact Style 6 - Stepping Cleverley - shoes that fit like a glove
   
contact Style 7 - Golden Summer - suits go shiney with luxury cloth
   
contact Style 8 - Model Choice - Beckham, Ronaldo and ...Worrall
   
contact Accessories - Leather Arrives - bespoke service in the Row
   
contact Grooming - For Wooing - help in how to succeed with women
   
contact Culture - Treasure House - South Bank centre of attraction
   
contact Drinks - Moon Goddess - the latest collectors' malt
   
contact Travel - Go to Cuba - before it changes
   
contact Compendium - Links to the really best brands and services
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     
 

:: TOP HATTER SAVED ::

 


GOOD NEWS for men mad about hats. Bates, the top hatters in Jermyn Street, has been saved.

Threatened with eviction from its long-time premises tophat.jpgat number 21 Jermyn Street, this treasure has upped-sticks and crossed the road, now to be found within the premises of shirtmakers Hilditch & Key.

"The company will carry on exactly as before," managing director of H & K , Michael Booth told us."It will have its own shop entrance, with its old sign and keep the variety of hats that it has always sold."

This acquisition gives Hilditch & Key a full complement of men's items, knitwear, jackets, trousers and pyjamas sold alongside their shirts.

Proprietor of Bates, Tim Boucher will remain with the company for six months and then retire.

It is a marriage made in Heaven. Hilditch & Key is another longtime resident of this famous street, one of the few remaining shirt houses to be true to its bespoke beginnings. It still has a bespoke service and its ready-to-wear shirts are all made to the highest of standards in its own Scottish factory.

Edward Bates Ltd has been selling gentleman’s hats for over a 100 years and is planterhat.jpgstill a family run business. It now has a new lease of life, taken in by a firm similarly concentrated upon quality – and even longer established (Hilditch & Key dates back to 1899).

Top hat is priced at £330, the planter panama at £65. See full selection on www.bates-hats.co.uk