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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

THERE'S NO SEWBIZ LIKE SHOWBIZ

Showbiz has long played an important part on Savile Row. Hollywood’s finest practically kept the place going in the 1940s, and successive generations of film stars, music legends and other celebrities of the show business world have continued to beat a path to the tailoring mecca once they hit the big time.

From Clark Gable and Gregory Peck (for younger readers, gable.jpgsee their inimitable style by Googling) through to Mick Jagger, David Beckham and a fresh crop of pop and thespian stars, an appreciation of Savile Row’s talent has developed along with the wherewithal to indulge in it.

But where womenswear designers and couturiers parade beckhamshowbiz.jpgcelebrity clients as evidence of their success, Savile Row has always maintained a discreet silence about its current famous customers. Until now…

The traditional confidentiality of the Row is being broken down because many of today’s celebrities want the publicity. They are happy to have photographs and accreditation of their tailor in the popular press. And some tailors are developing this potential for promotion.

It falls to one of the newer houses to lead the way. Stowers Bespoke, launched last year, was formed by three tailors with long winstone.jpgexperience at top houses on the Row. Ray Stowers heads up the triumvirate, an astute ball of energy, who in a short space of time has garnered more press attention than a Savile Row tailor has had for a long time.

Prior to forming this company, the threesome had a site within Libertys store, and he acknowledges that this presence has proved beneficial.

“People who wouldn’t walk along Savile Row saw us there,” he explains. “They may have been buying ready-two-wear Italian suits in Bond Street for £2,500 and seeing our prices realised they could have the real thing, a fully bespoke suit, for just a little more.”

This has resulted in showbiz folk seeking out Stowers Bespoke in Savile Row. And he is at pains to point out the he doesn’t go looking for celebrity customers. “We want proper customers,” he said, “on a commercial basis.”

His latest showbiz coup is to make clothes for the just-released film filmgroup.jpg“44inch Chest”, starring Ray Winstone, above. Stowers made clothes for  most of the cast, which had to be in character and period.

“We had to go out to the studio and it was really interesting to see how the actors turned into their characters once we were discussing the styling requirements. These are 1970s people and Ray Winstone knew what was required for his central role, a slightly out of fashion figure. John Hurt, who plays Old Man Peanut (above with Ian McShane), needed suits that looked old and a bit big for him. It was quite a challenge.”

A couple of other films are now on the agenda and other projects that will take Stowers onto a wider stage are in the pipeline – one of them aided by the company's presence at the recent press evening at the Mayfair Hotel, which savilerow-style helped stage.

Here, Ray Stowers attracted attention from young bakerplant.jpgjournalists unaware that some of their showbiz heroes came to ‘fuddy-duddy’ Savile Row for their clothes.

Another who is attracting showbiz figures who are only too happy for him to promote the fact is Tom Baker of Sir Tom Baker.

This tall, maverick figure, based in Soho, has established a reputation for creating properly tailored but unusual styles – the shiny suit for David Hasselhof that recently attracted press coverage one example.

His website gives a flavour of his own flair for entertainment, which is backed up by the rock-n-roll ambience of his shop. And by word of mouth he has built up a reputation among the showbiz fraternity for making classically tailored styles that yet provide some showbiz razzle dazzle.

rhysbaker.jpgAnt and Dec, Graham Norton and Craig Revel-Horwood, one of the judges on Strictly Come Dancing, are customers, as are Noel Fielding of the Mighty Boosh and Keith Flint of The Prodigy. In addition to bespoke outfits, they might pick up a suitably eyecatching hat, a bright slim tie or, the latest addition, 1960s-style boots from quality shoemaker Jeffrey West.

Above, Tom Baker with customer Robert Plant, lead singer of Led Zeppelin, and left another customer, Rhys Ifans, Welsh actor, in a typically Baker, lean, chalk stripe suit.

David Beckham, at top, has tried a number of Savile Row tailors, here wearing a Tom Ford bespoke

Mark Powell is another Soho-based tailor who has long had a loyal showbiz following. Singers George Michael, Billy Bragg and Bryan Ferry are just three that have appreciated his particular brand of sumptuous, vintage styling with impeccable tailoring.

He too has made clothes for a number of films, notably Absolute Beginners and Gangster No 1. A velvet coat worn by actor Daniel Radcliffe (of Harry Potter fame) drew much press attention and another actor, Martin Freeman, known from The Office) hannahmark.jpghas favoured some sharp Powell suits. Stars George Clooney and Harrison Ford have had Powell suits, as well as John Hannah, right.

Longer established houses are by no means out of the showbiz spotlight. Huntsman has probably made clothes for more famous film stars and actors than any other house on the Row, including the 30s heartthrob Rudolph Valentino, 40s hard man Humphrey Bogart and Ronald Reagan, film actor before he became President of the USA, as well as Clark Gable, top, known as the King of Hollywood in his heyday.

Showbiz stars continue to make for Huntsman to have Huntsman make for them, but this company remains true to the Row’s traditional confidentiality code where present customers are concerned. “We just prefer to be discreet about our customers,” said Poppy Smith, marketing factotum, with a smile, but pointed to their role call of famous past customers, including Clark Gable at top, whose intimate details remain in their records.

Given that some may have bow legs, others  rather more at the rear than at the front, it is understandable that showbiz icons might prefer their tailor to remain unknown. And it is a testament to the skill of bespoke tailoring that these defaults may never be evident to an adoring public.

 

 
 

Spring 2010 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Style 1 - No Sewbiz like Showbiz - Savile Row's starry customers
   
contact Style 2 - Male peacock returns - as men go for Bling
   
contact Style 3 - Have needle, will travel - travelling tailors
   
contact Style 4 - Anderson and Sheppard - grandee moves into the spotlight
   
contact Style 5 - Male Glamour - tailors dress up for their annual dinner
   
contact Style 6 - Stepping Cleverley - shoes that fit like a glove
   
contact Style 7 - Golden Summer - suits go shiney with luxury cloth
   
contact Style 8 - Model Choice - Beckham, Ronaldo and ...Worrall
   
contact Accessories - Leather Arrives - bespoke service in the Row
   
contact Grooming - For Wooing - help in how to succeed with women
   
contact Culture - Treasure House - South Bank centre of attraction
   
contact Drinks - Moon Goddess - the latest collectors' malt
   
contact Travel - Go to Cuba - before it changes
   
contact Compendium - Links to the really best brands and services
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     
 

:: BRITISH WIN AT FIFA ::

FOOTBALL ENTHUSIASTS with a discerning eye for style may head for St James’s Palace, at the bottom of St James’s Street in Mayfair, where next door is a new-ish shirt shop selling the only line of luxury shirts for the FIFA World Cup.

This is the latest outlet for Grosvenor, a company celebrating its 10th englandshirt.jpganniversary in business. And to mark this landmark, it has landed the contract to make luxury shirts for this year’s football event in South Africa. These are of a style and quality not normally associated with football gear and are likely to become collectors’ items.

“They have gone down a storm in Italy,” managing director Karl Dunkley told SR’s Spy. The prototype collection was shown for the first time at the top menswear show in Florence in January

Grosvenor is making a limited edition of 210 shirts for each of the countries participating. Made in a white, 2 fold royal twill, with a front strip reflective of the country’s national flag, each shirt is individually numbered through discreet embroidery on the under cuff of the right sleeve. They sell at £200.

Chances are that by the time you read this the batch for England may well be sold out. But there are non-limited editions of boxer shorts, pyjamas and socks, and there is a small limited edition of 50 shirts for ladies, all featuring the red and white England detail. A made to measure service is available.

If the World Cup shirts have gone, never mind. grosvenorstripe.jpgHere is an example of Grosvenor’s original styling.

They have plenty of classics as well, all in fine shirtings and meticulously made in Northern Ireland.

The site doesn’t really do justice to the original colourings available for the shirts, but the socks, the wonderful socks, give an indication of designer Juan Credidio’s creative use of colour. See them on www.grosvenorshirts.co