MENSWEAR PASSION OF QUEEN'S DRESSMAKER

Famed as dressmaker to the Queen, Hardy Amies was actually passionate about menswear, and when he start his long career, he made suits for such iconic male stars as Edward G Robinson and Cary Grant.

But a series of connections lead him into women’s wear and to making for the Royal family and finally to receiving a Royal Warrant from the Queen. And despite forays into menswear, it was for a particular style of dressy classics, as worn by HM, that he became established over the years.

Now, the Hardy Amies name is undergoing a revival and, in a move that its late founder would undoubtedly have approved, is to concentrate upon men’s bespoke clothing.

Austin Mutti-Mewse is the man responsible for guiding the transition from women’s couture house to bespoke tailoring establishment, not an easy task. But with the backing of the global group, Li & Fung, which now owns the brand, he is confident that it can be re-positioned to sit with aplomb alongside its neighbouring Savile Row tailors.

The Amies women’s collection always had a strong section of immaculately tailored designs and responsible for these over many years was bespoke tailor, Pino Pugliese, who will continue to oversee the new men’s tailoring.

It is off to a good start, being responsible for the wedding attire of Freddie Windsor, son of Prince Michael of Kent,  whose wedding takes place later this year. A Hardy Amies suit was included in the summer-long promotion of linen in Savile Row, using a  dark brown herringbone pattern in contrast to the light colours usually associated with this fibre. And to highlight the talent and experience behind the brand,  two rooms of archives are to be opened to the public (by prior appointment) from this September , featuring an extensive collection of Hardy Amies designs and reflecting his inspirations.

“Men can come in and buy our off-the-peg models, which may be adjusted as required, and these also provide inspiration for customers coming in for a fully bespoke fitting,” Austin explained. “We want to remain true to the Hardy Amies style, fairly slim, conservative – and he had a preference for a one-button jacket, the button exactly at navel level.”

He also believes the double breasted style is due for revival with a new younger generation that has not experienced it before.

Product manager, Nancy Hughes, is coordinating a collection of English-made accessories to carry the Hardy Amies label. Like Austin, she had previously worked for Hardy Amies and is delighted to be back, working with design consultant Jon Moore, who was design director under Amies for many years.

So the new Hardy Amies has much of the old about it but with its aim now switched firmly to its namesake's original focus – men’s tailoring.

The double breasted suit at top has the Amies slim styling with well defined waist and should attract a new generation that has not had much experience of db's.

As couturier to the Queen, Amies had to contend not only with the special style requirements of her 'job' - non-fussy lines, colours that would stand out in a crowd, hats off the face, etc - but also competition from spectactular jewellery and insignia, as here.

The young Amies, seen above, left fashion during WWll to become an Intelligence Officer in the SOE but retained his elegant style by having his army uniform made for him in Savile Row.