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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

SUITS FOR WALKING OUT

“Not everyone wants to have a bespoke suit made,” admits Patrick Grant of top Savile Row bespoke house, Norton & Sons. “Some want the immediacy of being able to walk into a shop, trying something on and walking out with it. Our new ready-to-wear collection caters for them.”

In the four years since he took over at the helm of Norton’s, Patrick has re-invigorated this old company. Established in 1821 and previously noted particularly tautzstripeflannel.jpgfor its tweedy, sporty classics and clothing suitable for the tropics, it has a peerless pedigree of making for explorers, as well as royalty and international style figures.

“I looked around at what was on offer in ready-to-wear suits and found that, really, there were no good quality styles being made in Britain to compare with Brioni, for example.

“And so that is what we set out to create with the new Tautz collection.”

Tautz is another famous old Savile Row name, now being re-invented. It started life as a breeches maker in 1867 and went on to provide full sporting wardrobes for the cream of British society, including Edward Vll and a young Winston Churchill, before being acquired by Norton & Sons in the 1970s.
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The young Churchill was something of a dandy evidently, and Patrick's research shows some wonderful Tautz outfits.

Testament to the fact that the Tautz ready-to-wear suits are dedicated to quality is the fact that they are to retail at only slightly less than the starting price for Norton’s bespoke versions, at around £3,000.  Made for them by Britain’s one remaining high class suit manufacturer, (see right), they form the basis for a small, coordinating collection, much of it continuing the sporting tradition, tautzsuitscarf.jpgcovering shirts, ties, knitwear and leather goods, all hand crafted in Britain from top quality materials.

It is very much Patrick Grant’s baby, his take on style, but with input from all the Norton bespoke team.

“I took inspiration from the traditional British sporting look, with the Duke of Windsor as a style figure. He would put together really colourful and original outfits, and make them look great.”

He clearly loves his role as head of a bespoke tailoring house in Savile Row. Now, the Tautz collection provides scope for elegant originality and quality for those who want an immediate style fix. That it seems to have hit the right note is evident in an enthusiastic reception, being taken up by three key London retailers, including Harrods, and others are soon to be announced in the U.S. and Japan.

“We won’t be doing great volume – we can’t,” he said. “But I am pleased with what we have achieved so far."

At top, a Duke of Windsor-inspired chalk striped flannel suit and, above, a classic grey flannel single breasted.

 

 
 

Summer 09 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Style 1 - The Prince of Wales - an ongoing debate
   
contact Style 2 - Top guns in country fields of style
   
contact Style 3 - The Golden Shears Awards and winners
   
contact Style 4 - Interviews with the Gold and Silver tailors
   
contact Style 5 - The London Season is underway in full dress
   
contact Style 6 - Savile Row offers immediate clothing fix
   
contact Style 7 - Fast fashion costs the earth - bespoke tailoring better
   
contact Style 8 - Savile Row Selection
   
contact Style 9 - Accessories from top to toe
   
contact Grooming and Health - The natural beauty trail
   
contact Top Textiles - How Scottish Estate Tweeds inspired camouflage
   
contact Drinks /Dining -Climate conditions good for fine vintages
   
contact Culture - Divas and Shakespeare and evening dress
   
contact Travel - Short safaris and luxury in Scotland
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     
 

:: READYMADE SAVIOUR ::

 

THE WHITE KNIGHT who has ridden to the rescue of British ready-to-wear suits is Tony Lutwyche.lutwychepic.jpg

He launched his own bespoke tailoring house in 2000. Having got this off to a good start, he then managed to acquire the one remaining British high-end suit making operation in Cheshire in 2006.

He has retained skilled workers and the end result of their hand-cut, fully canvassed and hand-finished efforts may be seen in the collection that he has just launched in Saks U.S. under his own label, Lutwyche.

Now, he is in the happy position of having other tailors coming to him for high quality ready-to-wear garments - the only suits that can carry the "Made in England" label. (See left for one of the tailors.)

The Lutwyche collection will be launched in the UK later this year and other overseas launches are to follow.