ROW EXPANSION DESPITE GLOOMY OUTLOOK

Flying in the face of economic gloom, new bespoke tailors continue to join the ranks of Savile Row firms.
That they are not exactly new -  indeed are highly experienced - does not detract from their bravery in choosing now to opt to launch new establishments and promotions.

Ray Stowers has been working in the Row for many years, 25 of them at Gieves & Hawkes, where he became head of tailoring.  He left there recently to set up on his own, then joined with tailors Brian Pusey and Brian Jeffrey, both with long years at Gieves & Hawkes as well as periods at Huntsman and Nortons. And they have acquired the business and premises of James Levett, at Number 13 Savile Row, who has now retired.

“I had been working partly from home and partly from Liberty’s,” Ray Stowers explained, “but was watching for suitable premises to become available on the Row. We were delighted to acquire these.”

They are, by Savile Row standards, spacious and offer plenty of scope for refurbishment.

“We are busy – I’ve just got back from the Middle East. But I have plenty of plans for here and also for developing the business. We’ve established a new website and appointed a PR and I plan to go to the States next year.

“We are genuine bespoke tailors. We will make whatever customers want, and I don’t really see us having a house style. We’ve got a new lease here and we’re getting plenty of customers, mainly by word-of-mouth.”

At top, Ray Stowers with a blazer he made with outsize badge to show their embroidery skills - which has attracted attention. Above, country tweed and right, classic morning coat.

MASTER POLISH TAILOR MOVES IN

Peter Potkansky brings not only tailoring skills from his native Poland but a sharp business brain and an appreciation of the need for promotion.

He arrived in London just 4 years ago and from an initial sitting within Holland & Sherry began building up a clientele, as usual in Savile Row by word-of-mouth.
Earlier this year he acquired the 2nd and 3rd floor premises in the same building as Richard Anderson and  embarked upon a promotional campaign, with advertisements in many publications.

“You have to advertise,” he said. “I learnt that when I worked at Armani. We have also appointed a PR and we have other promotions planned.”

His budget would make most tailors’ eyes water but he is clearly committed to establishing his company’s name, Potkansky Couture, and attracting customers up to his attractive showroom. He has been helped by meeting designers Zandra Rhodes and Andrew Logan, who liked his work, and he has taken part in the seasonal shows they stage, resulting in plenty of attention. 

“I am responsible for the cutting and fitting. We have 5 tailors working here and I use a further 9 outworkers. We make women’s clothes also – you learn something different when you make for women, new ways with collars, details. But menswear accounts for about 60 per cent of our business.”

In Poland, where he acquired his Master Tailor degree,  he made suits for the country’s top politicians. Here, he has a varied customer base, including many celebrities and showbiz  people, but also plenty still coming from the City.

 “I’ve tried taking on some trainees, and given them sewing to do, to practice before they start on garments – but they give up. You can’t learn if you don’t like this job. You have to be passionate about it.” He clearly is.

Above, classic button-two stripe with a notched lapel and left grey suit with peaked lapel.