BUBBLES OF CHRISTMAS CONSOLATION

Global champagne sales may be down for the first time this century but at a luxury level there is plenty of indication that bubbly will be one of the consolations for this Christmas period.

Laurent Perrier has teamed up with top crystal name Baccarat again to launch this sophisticated gift pack of a Grand Siecle magnum and six crystal flutes. The glasses reflected the sleek lines of the bottle, which is a replica of a 17th century design. It is available exclusively through Harrods, priced at £1,600.

Moet & Chandon will personalise gift bottles by adding a recipient's name in glittering Swarovski Elements. This service is available at the shop that they are opening just for the Christmas period, Atelier Moet, at 70 New Bond Street in London, from December 3rd. Customers may purchase a bottle and arrange for home delivery the next day, or watch the crystals being applied by hand and take the bottle away with them . Larger bottles are also be available, up to the Nebuchadnezzar size (1500cl). Prices from £50. www.ateliermoet.com

Just released by Piper Hiedsick is a collection of rare vintages, covering the years 1999, 1988 and 1979, in 75cl bottles, and a 1998 in 150cl only. These are exceptional wines, produced during unpredictable seasons, and in limited quantities. Available through Berry Bros of St James's, they retail at £102 for the 1999, £204 - 1988, £244 - 1998 and £714 the 1979.

A neat gift line provides a bottle of Bollinger in a leather carry case. The Special Cuvee, priced at £49.95 is available from the online gift service, www.champagneexpress.co.uk, along with a variety of other champagnes teamed with Teddy Bears, chocolates, cigars and flutes.

REAL MEN DRINK CHARDONNAY

Chardonay may have suffered from too close an association with WAGS and their ilk, and a surfeit of cheap and tasteless versions, but a fight back on its behalf is underway.

Up-market producers and wine buffs are singing the praises of the grape and wine that features it. Penfolds, one of the leading Australian wine makers, maintains that it is the Queen of Grapes, the key ingredient in Champagne, Chablis and Meursalt. Its versatility, they maintain, means there is a Chardonay to suit every taste – so just keep trying until you find the one for you: There’s a pleasant task for the winter months.

Look for Chardonnays, advise Penfolds, from the cooler regions for investment, as these are best suited to long term cellaring. Those from the new world regions tend to a creamier style, making them an excellent choice to accompany many foods. And this wine is increasingly shucking off its womens-drink image, as more and more men appreciate it – recent research found that Chardonnay is the wine of choice by 65% of British male wine-lovers, ahead of other wines, beer and spirits.

Three of Penfolds Australian versions should slip down nicely - the Bin 311 2006, retailing at £17.99, their Yattarna Chardonnay 2005, at £30, and the Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2007, just £9.99.

NEW NAME FROM CALIFORNIA

At another recent tasting, wine buff Joe Wadstock sung the praises of Californian Chardonnay from Beringer, one of the oldest of California’s wine producers.

Launching their new Stone Cellars range, Beringer introduced a trio of Chardonnay, Chardonnay Rose and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Wadstock emphasised how this Chardonnay has enough body to accompany a wide variety of foods, as well as being a highly acceptable drinking wine for men just as much as for women.

And to prove the point, a Beringer's Stone Cellars Chardonnay, 2007, was served with a spicey sea bass and rosti dish prepared by TV chef Simon Rimmer. Manfully, we quaffed the wine, and agreed that it was indeed just as acceptable for men as women. To go with another Rimmer dish, a strong venison stew, the choice was their Cabernet Savignon red, from 2005. And the rosé was also pretty nice, for a rosé.

Beringer has been operating in the Napa Valley of California since 1876 and is the top domestic wine brand in the US. The Stone Cellars brand is now being rolled out here, through major supermarkets, at the reasonable price of £6.99.