Hackers, Hunters and Poachers continued

The formal tailcoat reveals its riding ancestory in its tails, designed to fall over the haunches of a horse  - and with two buttons still retained at the back waist, where the tails might be buttoned up to avoid mud splashes.

The influence of this early example, right, of riding wear is evident in the outfit worn by Beau Brummell, left, in the early 19th century - not a very flattering painting of him by Robert Dighton. Perhaps he had just had a good lunch.

And the modern formal tailcoat, below, continues the cut-away front and tails, though here, in a morning outfit from Ede & Ravenscroft, shows a softly cutaway line.

Ede & Ravenscroft, especially known for their legal and regalia clothes, and who have an extensive hire service in formal wear, report increased orders for bespoke outfits, many for those attending the top race meetings. This reveals an interesting return of the modern formal attire to its horsey roots.

The Barbour jacket, beloved by successive waves of  Sloanes and other young fashionistas, is representative of many similarly capacious, protective garments worn by gamekeepers, poachers, anglers, farmers and other rural figures.

Initially, the most hard wearing and dense of materials were used to give maximum protection and lasting wear - hence hard tweeds and melton, a heavy, dense coating.

But modern developments have brought lighter, more supple cloths that give greater protection against the rain, as well as warmth and breathability, as to be found in the Barbour collection and others.

The jacket below is the latest manifestation of the classic heavy waxed Barbour, this one in a featherweight waxed material that is waterproof and breathable, price approx £189.

These and others stem from the classic working garments worn by generations of rural folk, from the squire down.  The British weather is a great leveller – in the mud and the rain, there is little scope for clothing distinction, other than practicality. And it is the practical design of country garments that has ensured their enduring appeal.

To these must be added the tweed hats, brogues, breeches, breeks and riding coats that have all been taken up by many whose nearest approximation of a gritty country pursuit is enjoying a pint at the village pub. So the townies come to the country, bringing with them the latest versions of the old country styles.