RURAL STYLE RULES THE WARDROBE

A recent report revealed that more people now live in cities in the UK than in the countryside.  Hardly a surprising statistic, as a steady drift to the towns has been taking place since the Industrial Revolution, accelerated by what has been perceived as a decidedly anti-rural attitude on the part of the present Labour government.

But though town life is where most modern Britons now live and work, for many the countryside remains the place where their heart is – and where the basis of our culture was formed.

In no area is this rural influence more pronounced than in clothing.  The young fashion level may prevail in London but in the world of grown-up clothing and in men’s clothing in particular, country classics rule the roost – not just in the UK but at a quality level around the world. So to illustrate how the country still leads the town, in this edition we look at the British countryside and the inspiration it continues to exert on our clothes and in our urban-dominated lives.

This classic hunting scene above, still to be seen in the countryside despite a ban on actually hunting foxes, shows where many male style traditions began. This particular illustration was a cover shot for the stable-mate magazine of savilerow-style, 'British Style', and features Austin Reed merchandise.

HUNTERS, HACKERS AND POACHERS - THE STYLE FIGURES

THIS immaculate hacking jacket, in a herring bone tweed, with velvet collar and three buttons, is a classic country style worn by horse riders and followers of the hounds. But it has long been taken up by young bloods who appreciate its style, maybe for wear with dark trousers and polo sweater for an evening out or for a trip to the pub.

It is by Bookster, a remarkable company that operates online. Started in 2003 to sell vintage bespoke items only, it has since gone on to establish its own made-to-measure service, concentrating upon such classic styles as this. All are 100per cent British made, in quality British cloths.

Peter King is the founder of the company, passionate about fine clothes and committed to the best traditions of English tailoring. He started off as a townie, operating at the very heart of the London fashion scene in the 1970s, then moved to the country, where he became an organic farmer and specialist in rare breeds. The calamitous effect of the foot-and-mouth disease in 2001 prompted him to start selling vintage bespoke clothes online to help get money to feed his animals. Such was the success of the operation, that he has scaled down his farming activities and now sees considerable expansion in the Bookster collection that he launched last year.

"It's difficult to find vintage tailored clothes in larger sizes," he explained, "so we decided what we ought to do is have some made ourselves - and it's gone like a rocket."

Only the best of Britishs cloths are used and he is cooperating with some Harris Tweed weavers to provide a wealth of interesting patterns. Jackets, trousers, vests, suits are available in standard sizes or with variations according to requirements. A standard hacking jacket may take six weeks to make, from around £200, tweeds suits, in specially woven Harris Tweed, will take longer and cost rather more.

Left, a half Norfolk with elbow patch.

"The response has been wonderful world-wide," said King. " and we are in the process of expanding what we can offer. But I'm committed to maintaining the quality at a reasonable price." To see the range go to www.tweed-jacket.com

The hacking jacket, incidentally, has also been called a ratcatcher, which indicates its wide adoption in the country hierarchy. Traditionally, it was made in cavalry twill, whipcord or melton as well as tweed. continued over Style p3

MENSWEAR TALENT LOOKS TO SAVILE ROW

NAME to watch for is Oliver Ruuger, who recently completed a BA (hons) at Kingston University, and who won a Brooks Bros competition for designing a cycling outfit last year, taking classic country garments for his inspiration.
These wonderfully expressive illustrations by him show some of the designs from that project. On the left a jacket influenced by the Barbour, an all-weather style. And right, a cycling coat, which features four vents at the back, inspired by the split tails of the hunting coat, with straps inside to secure the 'tails' over the cyclist's legs. He used waterproof material and sealed all the seams to ensure the garment would keep the wearer dry. He wants to concentrate upon tailoring and is keen to gain experience in Savile Row, so some house should snap him up.