STARS OUTSIDE THE 'CLUB' continued

“We will of course make whatever a customer wants, within reason,” says Coulthard, “and lots of customers do come in with their own ideas these days. But most want the classic Savile Row fitted style.”

By catching them young, pupils at the college often remain customers for life – and then bring the next generation along when they in turn go to Eton.

“Yes,we have successive generations” Coulthard reports cheerfully, “at the London shop as well as in Eton. They may leave us for a time after they leave the college, but when they reach a certain age, when they appreciate quality, they want a bespoke suit - and they return to us.”

A three-button Tom Brown jacket in a checked tweed is pictured left.

Mayfair home-from-home continues

Douglas Hayward became a modern-day equivalent of the founder of Poole’s when he not only made for London’s social and showbiz elite in the 1960s, but mixed with them on the circuit. As Poole held court in the mid-1800s, so Hayward entertained in his Mount Street showroom and in his flat above, creating a club-like atmosphere that later international designers have sought to emulate in their own outlets.

The cluttered, colourful, comfortable front room reeks of style.  Wonderful cashmere knits piled on tables, a rainbow of linen shirts, scarves and caps hanging on the wall, piles of books and magazines – it is the antithesis of the stiff formality associated with Savile Row establishments, carefully arranged to provide a welcoming, at-home feel for customers.

Here, Hayward in happier times with long-time customer and friend, Sir Michael Caine.

Hayward no longer holds sway in his armchair alas, due to ill health, but the firm continues to operate along the well oiled lines that he established, very much a ‘family’ business, everyone involved in running it.  Audie Charles is the welcoming and creative figure, Lesley Haines the Savile Row-trained tailor who carries the mantle of Hayward’s tailoring talent. 

“I had always wanted to work for Douglas Hayward,” he explains, “and when I heard on the grapevine that he was looking for someone, I was in like a shot.” That was 26 years ago.

“The Hayward style is essentially classic but with a slightly higher waist and slightly closer chest, so that the skirt seems slightly more emphasised. Customers don’t want anything that is going to date easily – but the younger ones in recent years are interested in style and know more what they want.”

Modern-day travelling tailor

The dynamic trio of David Cook, Peter Day and Frank Buyars acquired the respected old firm of Denman & Goddard some dozen years ago.  All Master Tailors with long experience in the Row, they are now based in New Burlington Street, just around the corner from Savile Row.

The firm started in 1853, incorporating an older company, Hicks & Son that began trading in 1797.  “But while I appreciate our history and that of Savile Row’s collectively, I don’t want to be looking backwards all the time,” says Cook. “We believe in going forward.”

A big, good-humoured man with a penchant for enjoying life, he travels to the US, the Gulf States and Russia as well as throughout Europe and is well suited, both literally and in his personality, to establishing new contacts and keeping old ones.

As a former President of the Master Tailors’ Benevolent Association (which recently held its annual dinner, see Style p5) , he is well known on the Row.  He was m.d. at Dege & Skinner before moving to Denman & Goddard and is now putting his considerable energies into founding the new Savile Row Alliance.

The classic Savile Row suit, as above, may be the mainstay of the company's business but they also make military and ceremonial dress for customers all over the world, as well as sports styles and corporate clothing.

“I taught a lot of those now on the Row,” says Cook. “I’ve spent my life in the business. Now, with the Alliance, I want to see a revival of how the trade used to be and a greater spirit of cooperation between us all.”