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www.savilerow-style.com |
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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST |
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• Urban Warrior Look Takes Centre Stage
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| The rise and rise of the warrior style figure was to be expected, we suppose, given the prevailing conditions. With civilians under threat from terrorism, it was inevitable that the urban warrior look should gain credence - as shown in these figures from the Florence menswear exhibition.
The trend has been underway for some time, of course. The spread of casual wear, outdoor lifestyle lines and practical sporty gear has brought together rugged, protective and overtly masculine influences that make for a macho, aggressive figure.
The Hoodie is one aspect of this movement that has attracted attention and censure. But many young men are now dressed as if ready for the next battle - which indeed they may well be - in clothes that take their inspiration from the military and the bandidos.
The civilised alternative of a Savile Row suit seems to stand little chance against the warrior class.But it is worth remembering that history's leading warriors largely dressed to kill - think Genghis Khan and Henry Vlll. And there is nothing like wearing a £3,000 suit to persuade a man that it is best to rise above the ruck and opt for the peaceful pleasure of a pint.
Savile Row's influence is an important one in the fight (if that is the word we want) against aggression.
Styles at top are from the latest collection by Marlborough, one of many to concentrate upon such rugged styles at Pitti Uomo.
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• Pick of the latest patterns
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These cloths are from Smith & Co (Woollens) and show patterns and cloth types that are very much style-right. From the left, a diaganol design in a twist marled wool worsted whipcord, 15/16oz weight, No 2335; centre, luxury Huddersfield chalk stripe flannel, milled wool worsted, 12oz, No 2680; right, herringbone pattern in Solaro pure wool worsted, 11/12oz, No 2312. |
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:: What's in the sack? ::
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When the cognescenti of the world's menswear markets descended upon Florence in January for the top seasonal trade show, the first cases of human melt-down seemed imminent.
Dressed for effect, many swathed in fabulous furs and fur-trimmed designer parkas, they braved outdoor temperatures in the mid to upper 50s F (15/17C) and endured dangerously rising body heat
rather than consign their winter finery to the cloakrooms.
Nevertheless, this proved to be a most successful Pitti Uomo show, attracting near 27,000 buyers from around the world, there to decide what men will be wearing next Autumn/Winter.
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