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www.savilerow-style.com |
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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST |
Tailors show they can Party |
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Tailors, on the whole, are pretty reticent creatures, more used to the confidentiality of the fitting room and the concentration of the workroom than to hob nobbing with their illustrious customers.
Yet in Florence they entered into a whirl of receptions and parties with an aplomb that revealed their reserved front is just that.
They enjoyed cocktails in the company of Prince Michael of Kent and sundry other dignatories at the grand opening of their show at the Pitti Palace, danced the night away after a gala dinner at the Corsini Palace and enjoyed another evening celebration with His Royal Highness after a day spent enjoying the spotlight.
This bonhomie was by no means restricted to the younger tailors and showed there is plenty of life in the old bespoke yet.
Tailors who contributed to this event were Anderson & Sheppard, Chittleborough & Morgan, Davies & Son, Dege & Skinner, Ede & Ravenscroft, Edward Sexton, Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, Henry Poole, Henry Rose, AJ Hewitt, Huntsman, John Pearse, JsenWintle, Kilgour, Mark Powell, Maurice Sedwell, Norton, Ozwald Boateng, Richard Anderson, Spencer Hart, Richard James, Timothy Everest, Tony Lutwyche, Welsh & Jeffries Not all are located actually within Savile Row but were either trained there, or maintain the Row's standards.
The seven who staged a separate Trunk Show were Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Henry Poole, Jsen Wintle, Richard Anderson, Timothy Everest, and Tony Lutwyche.
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::Style Notes:: |
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THE only tailor to take a stand within the main body of the Pitti Uomo exhibition was Mark Powell, presenting his ready-to-wear collection in support of his bespoke tailoring contributions to the London Cut presentation over at the Palazzo Pitti.
He’s a likeable, extrovert Londoner, much favoured by showbiz and media folk. Based in Soho, a traditional adjunct to Savile Row, he took inspiration from the 1920s and 30s for much of his r-t-w collection, seen in Oxford bag trousers, double breasted waistcoats and check flannels, with some slim silhouettes from the 60s too – some trousers down to 16in bottoms.
Timothy Everest, another tailor who has successfully moved into the ready-to-wear field and become a global brand name, contributed outfits to the ‘Tribute to Tommy Nutter’ section of London Cut.
An early disciple of Nutter’s, he went on to start his own tailoring business away from the Savile Row environs, in London’s Spitalfields – then a run-down area, now trendy.
For this Summer, he is backing traditional boating blazers, in stripes, checks and dogtooth patterns,plus the return of the double breasted suit with peaked lapel.
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Velvet smoking jacket (perhaps the name should be changed now) with frog fastening, as made for King Edward Vll, by Henry Poole. Classic blazer and white flannels, as made by Davies & Son for King George V. 
Left, short opera cloak from Mark Powell. Silver topped cane crafted by Swaine, Adeney Brigg. Checked blazer and flannels as made for Fred Astaire, by Anderson & Sheppard