SLIM SINGLES TO FULLER FORTIES

 

WE forecast a Forties revival in the first online edition this year, citing moves in the cloth world as a pointer.  Now, Richard Anderson has just produced a stunning suit with Forties overtones, as shown here.

This is moving towards the more fitting shape of the Fifties but its wide, wide lapels are definitely a Forties detail, and the d.b. fastening reflects the Forties/early Fifties mood.
It comes in a superbly striking windowpane check, pink on a grey pick and pick pure wool cloth. Definitely for the man who likes to be noticed.

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We've had a long period of slim single breasted suit styles, so the time is ripe for a change.

Double breasted styles have to be chosen with care, however. They are not good for the short and stocky, particularly in bold patterns, like this one. And they can look overly formal, unless suitably accessorised. Here, the pink shirt and tie help give a relaxed styling - though perhaps the coordinating handkerchief may be just a little too neat.

At its most extreme, the 1940s went for the Zoot Suit, with a d.b. jacket that hung loose from wide shoulders, above wide and baggy trousers, and with wide ties. It was a relaxation after the strictures of wartime uniform. Then, the line started to narrow as the 40s gave way to the 50s and then moved into a narrow single breasted suit style for that decade.

 
 

Historical footnotes to style

 

ALSO on a Forties footing (see above), are some splendid two-tone 'co-respondents' brogues in the latest Oliver Sweeney collection. And taking inspiration from the earlier spats of the Edwardian era, this slick boot with piping has a matching ‘spat’ style bootlace cover, an interesting addition.   Price £250.

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The shoes above are a very special release from Oliver Sweeney, combining British design with Italian craftmanship. In a limited edition of just 75 pairs, they are named the Londoninium LXlll, in tribute to an excavation in 1997 of the London Bridge built by the Romans. Remarkably preserved were oak timbers, dated to 63AD, and this date in Roman numerals is lasered into the heel and toe of the shoes, along with a Roman eagle symbolising Roman strength. Made to order over 12 weeks, they are priced at £750. For stockists contact www.oliversweeney.com.

 
 
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:: What's In Savile Row Style ? ::

     
 
     

Glamour of sun specs

 


THE style in sun specs is for large and glamorous but styles in optical spectacles remain resolutely small. We wonder why.

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It isn't as if there is any choice in the matter. All frames on show in opticians are almost identical in terms of narrowness of depth and width. A few more colours are creeping in but given that there are such attractive variations in sun glasses, it seems that the uniformity can only be to suit the spectacle producers.

These large wrap-around sun glasses are by Ray Ban

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:: English dress for outdoors ::
   

A magical evening at the Open Air Theatre in London’s Regents Park late summer provided some unexpected style interests.

The show was The Boyfriend, a joyous pastiche of a 1920’s musical, performed before a capacity audience that had been undaunted by threatening clouds and dripping trees.

Indeed, many arrived early, some with picnics, others opting for the al fresco restaurant, fully prepared in classic macintoshes, anoraks and capacious capes for whatever the weather might provide.

This ability of the English to defy the weather, bred before global warming sent us hotter summers, has undoubtedly inspired and been aided by the kind of traditional clothes worn on this evening. Fortunately, the rain held off, as the cast danced along what was depicted as the plage at Nice. 

And the bright, light, striped 1920s style suits and blazers worn by the male dancers demonstrated just how attractive some hot weather wear can be.  Could we see see a revival of these for our hotter summers?