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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

CLUB OF BRITISH LUXURY BRANDS

Easy to stand out in a mediocre crowd but managing to do so when the crowd is the exclusive  club of the Walpole is quite a feat.

The Walpole has over 120 luxury British brands, from small almost-one-man ones to the likes of Dunhill, the Royal Opera House, Chivas Regal and The Fish Society. It exists to promote and encourage British excellence and elodgershoe.jpgach year selects Brands of Tomorrow as fledgling talents to be nurtured.

The Lodger was one such, which stood out in the Walpole’s summertime presentation at Liberty’s London store (another member). The Lodger was the name given to a travelling shoemaker in medieval times, who moved around making shoes in return for a small fee and a bed for the night.

italianlodger.jpgThe Walpole Lodger, selected as a Brand of Tomorrow last year, has a rather more permanent base at its shop in Clifford Street, just off Savile Row. Launched just 8 months ago by Nathan Brown, a tall young American with experience in the Adidas/Nike world, it offers beautiful shoes, custom made in Northampton and Italy.

The classic English brogue at top is in an almond tinted leather, price £375; the tasselled loafer above is from a new collection of Italian casuals, £350.

“They are shoes for the man who doesn’t want to go for the full bespoke shoe, and yet who wants the best possible fit and quality at a more reasonable price,” Brown explained. “A customer’s feet are measured and we offer 6 different widths. The end result is a shoe made for that customer and ready within 30 days.”

Prices start at £375 for a desert boot, going up to around £550. The English versions, which account for about 60 per cent of sales, are made at a traditional shoemakers in Northampton, all to Brown’s specifications.

poolewalpole.jpgHenry Poole were showing off the tailoring skills that go into making such immaculate suits as this one (left).

As a founder member of the Walpole club, they ensure that the classic British formal style continues to be presented - though this summer have also been promoting their more relaxed linen lightweights. This suit is in the Seafield Prince of Wales check.

Pinstriped suits may now be matched up with pinstripedettingerwallet.jpg wallets, as created by Walpole member, top leather house, Ettinger. And just as in a bespoke suit, the stripes are meticulously aligned and matched, the pattern applied to bridle hide leather. Card cases, key cases and other items also available in black or navy versions.
This classic wallet fits smoothly inside a jacket, price £150
.

Famous Scottish name, Johnstons of Elgin, plans to reinvigorate its menswear collection next year, as it has been somewhat neglected in favour of a very johnstonsscarf.jpgstylish new womenswear range. But their scarves set trends that others follow, their latest seen at the Walpole presentation, an example here.

Silk one side in a Prince of Wales-type check, plain cashmere the other, price £95

To the untutored eye, a Savile Row suit may look just like any other suit – and the Vertu mobile may at a glance be just another phone. But this is the gold standard of mobiles, a work of art that gives its owners not only cutting edge technology but a tactile pleasure that comes from knowing it is the best.

The latest model, as introduced during the Walpole showcase, is the Vertu Ascent Ti Carbon Fibre, handcrafted in England. Carbon fibre is the top luxury material being used in the motorsport, marine and aerospace industries.To illustrate vertumobile.jpg its strength, Vertu are promoting the Ascent Ti by showing four of these mobiles supporting the weight of a Masserati.

There may be few occasions when quite such sterling quality is required - but you never know.
This is the top model, price £10,400.

smedleysweater.jpgAnd from that specialist in fine gauge knitwear for men, John Smedley, comes this fun design with reindeer motif.

It is sure to be a big success for the Christmas period and is in 100 per cent super soft merino wool from the company's New Zealand sheep farmer partners. Other designs feature a neat pattern on the body of a sweater, plain sleeves, and a sleek cardigan with piped pockets. They have also launched a new more tailored sweater, in a cut and sewn merino wool. 

Style Rauol, with matching scarf, price £150.

 

 
 

Autumn 09 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Style 1 - Savile Row finds the Golden Fleece
   
contact Style 2 - Queen's couturier had passion for menswear
   
contact Style 3 - Softest styling from engineer turned tailor
   
contact Style 4 - Luxury club shows tomorrow's brands today
   
contact Style 5 - Savile Row a winner at Royal Ascot
   
contact Style 6 - Magic and comedy in bespoke shirt tales
   
contact Style 7 - Latest design students may head for Row
   
contact Style 8 - Savile Row Selection
   
contact Accessories - Two-tone tootsies, plus wraps, trunks and undies
   
contact Grooming and Health - In pursuit of the body beautiful
   
contact Top Textiles - Linen the latest green cloth in favour
   
contact Drinks /Dining - Less Champagne but more bubbles
   
contact Culture - Zoom in on all the National Gallery
   
contact Travel - Anniversary at Britain's last colony; and on the Zulu trail
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     
:: JERMYN STREET THREAT ::
 

BATES HATS in Jermyn Street has been supplying top hats to toffs and all sorts of other hats to gentlemen for over 100 years; a few doors along, George Trumper’s has shaved and coiffured crowned heads as well as those of lesser mortals over many years; while Hawes & Curtis and Herbie Frogg are two other neighbouring establishments that have helped Jermyn Street remain an exclusive menswear enclave.

But alas, these and other original little establishments are poised for eviction as the Crown Estates moves to development a major block of property.

Jermyn Street became famous as a centre of excellence for menswear back in the days when Regency bucks had their apartments in the area, and shops grew up around there to cater for their needs. Today, it has a wonderful collection of retail outlets, including the best of  cheeses, perfumes, guns, antiques and cigars, as well as men’s shirts, shoes and hats.

Bates, a family concern, offers every type of hat, from classic tweed caps through boaters and panamas to fedoras, homburgs, tweed hats, top hats and trilbies to the bowler that was once such a ubiquitous symbol of the British gent. Run by Tim Boucher, with Michael Mole, this hatters delight is to disappear, when/if  the expected decision is made. “We’ll retire,” said Michael Mole.

They and the other exclusive businesses have had an uncertain future for several years, as the threat of development has hung over them. “If this goes ahead,” said Michael Mole of Bates, “Jermyn Street will become just like any other street.”

As we go to press, a final decision has yet to be announced, so there is still time for Westminster Council or Mayor Boris Johnson to decide that this is another little area of London too good to destroy.