BEACH BUMMING IN THE MALDIVES

As the mists of a British winter descend, what better than to helter skelter off to a sunny athol in the Indian Ocean and become a beach bum?

It is so much more sensible to go seeking the sun at this time of year rather than go when we might enjoy our own summer - as we did indeed this year.

The drawback, of course, lies in the fact that you have to go quite some way to be assured of the sun now, but direct flights to all sorts of far-flung places once remote are now available and if not direct, then stop-overs on the way are increasingly popular.

So to reach the idyllic Maldives, we went via Dubai, that cauldron of soaring buildings, multi-highways, mega-shopping malls and many well-paid expats. Not expecting to be charmed by such a bling-oriented city, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a two-day stay. Its sheer chutzpah and flamboyance take your breath away.

The ultimate image of Dubai - the huge, sail-like structure of the Burj al Arab hotel manages to dominate even against so many impressive buildings.

That said, we were unimpressed by the "world's largest shopping mall", an overwhelming edifice containing every known High Street brand; and the avenues of luxury apartments on The Palm were big-scale suburbia. But a boat trip round the harbour at night was stunning, showing off all those skyscrapers with space between them, mirror images of others around the world - a Big Ben, only bigger, a Chrysler Tower, only twins. And a dune bashing trip out into the desert was amazing, a delirious stunt ride over the sands followed by kebabs under a starry desert sky.

We were happy to be off the next day, to land in the Maldivian capital of Mali and to have a short walk from the aircraft to our waiting speed boat. A great way for the final leg of the journey - but next time we'll opt for the thrill of a seaplane delivery.

The Maldives attracted international attention a few years back, when it staged a government meeting beneath the waves. Ministers donned scuba tanks and plunged into the sea, to communicate with hand signals and boards. Their aim was to promote the need for more action on global warming and the effects it is having on the seas. The islands have the lowest natural highest point - yes, that's right - in the world, at just 7ft 10in. With sea levels rising, their concerns are understandable.

Away from it all - on a tiny Maldive athols; and see circling fish, including sharks, from the jetty.

But holidaymakers can leave their own concerns behind. For a real getting-away-from-it all paradise, this is it. There are hundreds of island, only a few with developments, and mostly controlled and of a good quality. The Bandos island offered luxurious bungalows, all with beach access almost opposite. The food was good, if not high cuisine, and wine and cocktails readily available in this Muslim country.

Beach bumming aside, the chief attraction here is being in the clear, warm waters of the lagoon, either snorkelling or venturing farther in scuba diving. Everyone takes to the sea, even if there are sharks. We were assured they are friendly and they are only about five foot long - but watching them circle in the spotlights of the jetty of an evening, with that prowling, menacing movement seen in so many movies, we were happy not to come across them while snorkelling.

There isn't a great deal more to do. One of the high spots was a trip out to see dolphins, and although it cannot be guaranteed that they will appear and perform, boy, did they. Their swoops and dives and leaps and spins had a boat load of adults squealing like kiddies. Magical creatures. There are also nocturnal fishing trips and island-hopping jaunts, as well as 'entertainment' at the large, thatch-roofed reception area each evening.

But for those who seek culture, museums, kareoke or suchlike on holiday, this is probably not the place to head for. Leave it to us beach bums.

Editor Marie Scott travelled to the Maldives with Audley Travel, at a cost of around £3,000.