LOOK TO THE FABRIC

The weird and wonderful had been largely elbowed aside by designers  at the  London Collections. Whilst there were still plenty of unusual, interesting and pretty daft creations unlikely to be seen worn out anywhere soon,  the emphasis for next Spring was definitely upon the wearable, and on tailored designs.

Man’s preference for the classic suit seemed to have been recognised by many of the younger pack – but that it could be made to look quite different with original fabric. This saw the use of more colour, and patterned materials, including some florals, made up into neat jackets, trousers maybe matching or plain. Intricately layered fine fabrics, washed leather, and impressive cloth made from recycled materials were just some of the options.

Top designer Paul Smith spearheaded the fresh look at cloth with an impressive display in Savile Row. He has worked with the Joseph H Clissold mill in Yorkshire to come up with some basically classic suitings and jacketings that incorporate subtle variations in the weave.

Not many mills would have the ability to provide these constructions, which allowed the gradation to a dark grey centre panel on the jacket right, matched on the lapel, and another with bands of pattern that emphasise the body shape, above.

 Cad & the Dandy, which has just opened a showroom in Savile Row, concentrated attention upon cloth at its launch party with a suit made from start to finish on the premises, including weaving of the cloth.

“Making our own fabrics isn’t a gimmick,” maintains James Sleater, who with his partner Iain Mieirs is behind this brand. A 200 year old Georgian loom was installed in the workroom, and the resulting Prince of Wales check suiting it produced was to be seen in the suit being worn by Sleater at the party.

The company, established just five years ago, has made a name for itself by providing tailored suits with the option of machine made, half hand made and fully hand made versions, at extremely competitive prices.One of their classic three-piece suits is shown left.

“We want to make suit-making an interesting, accessible and viable option for young people again,” Sleater went on. “It’s a noble profession. We don’t want it going the way of the telegraph operator.”

With outlets in the City and Canary Wharf, they have built up a loyal following among City businessmen, who like the easy, modern methods the company employs. A great film on their website shows the whole process in the twinkling of an eye – in reality, around four weeks work. The new shop is upstairs at Number 13 – lucky for some.

Chester Barrie, known  for darkly classic luxury suits in ready-to-wear and made-to-measure qualities, moved smartly into a brighter spotlight with its Spring collection. At a showcase event during the Collections week, vibrant blue suitings were mixed with a new range of apple green, orange and fuschia accessories.

Colour and a more casual approach go together in a new addition, the Chester Barrie Blue range. Whilst maintaining the same immaculate finish associated with the brand, this takes a softer approach to tailored lines and brings in some casual jackets and trousers, plus a riot of colour in accessories.

"Its a new look for us," George Orris, managing director said, "more casual and with lots of colour. "

The London Collections is as cosmopolitan as the capital, taking in designers not only from indigenous minorities but also attracting some from overseas. Jaewan Park, who comes from South Korea and graduated from the RCA with an MA, shows that highly skilled tailoring is alive and well in his home country, where his designs are made up.

"Everything is hand stitched," he emphasises. And everything is meticulously executed. His are modern styles aimed at people "who make statements through their wardrobe" but though certainly avantgarde, they reveal the strong influence that Savile Row has had upon him and come in a range of fine fabrics. This tailored jacket is in layered chiffon and silk.