THE FUTURE'S BRIGHT

Forecast is for brighter fronts coming in from the West and the East

The outlook is brighter for tailored menswear, judging by emerging trends in the USA and Europe, and more tentatively in the UK. More men are choosing suitings and jacketings that are just a little more colourful, a trifle more daring, and though it isn't yet another Peacock Revolution, it is a welcome indication that men, international business men, grown up men, are becoming a little less conformist.

The Dandy exhibition in the US (see Dandies ) shows just how colourful and extrovert men have been in the past - and indeed, how some are now. That quite a few of these are British is evidence that British chaps have been just as partial to a colourful get up and bit of bling as any others.

But Savile Row has reigned supreme over a couple of centuries of restraint. Now, it is time, as there is movement, for it to lead the way into the sunny brighter uplands that men once enjoyed. Shown here are just a few of the latest outfits from the tailors. They bring a touch of summer that is very welcome.

Despite acknowledging that his customers generally opt for classic, sombre shades, Alan Bennett at Davies always presents innovative designs for display - which must tempt some customers. With tie, this jacket, above, is perfectly businesslike but it could also be worn with an open necked shirt.

Kathryn Sargent has three outfits featured in the Dandy exhibition in the US and sees that market becoming much more adventurous in terms of style and colour.

She launched her own business just a year ago, after some 15 years at Gieves & Hawkes that culminated in her being head cutter there. This single breasted suit jacket, left, comes in a distinctive check, not bright enough to frighten the horses, but a good step away from the standard stripe.

Charlie Allen shows off his colourful credentials with this trio of checked jackets, single breasted, in linen. They show the way forward for younger customers who don't want the dark, traditional look, formal with a tie or relaxed with open-necked shirt over jeans.

With considerable experience as a consultant designer in the US - he worked with Barneys and Saks 5th Avenue to name just two - he sees demand for brighter cloths developing there, as in this strong blue suit seen below.

Benson & Clegg has recently gone into partnership with top quality retailer, Sterling & Burke, in Georgetown, Washington, to provide a bespoke service. Already visiting the States three times a year, this move has seen them take increased orders for bolder checks, with more colour, in tweeds and tweedy suitings, as in this single breasted style, below, an unusual green with pale blue overcheck.

The firm is one of the Warrant Holders who will be included in the exhibition taking place next monthin the grounds of Buckingham Palace , as part of the Coronation Festival.

Their Warrant is as suppliers of badges, buttons and military neckwear to Prince Charles, and these items, with cuff links, will be the focus of their display. Buttons and links with a Coronation motifs are featured on their website.

Huntsman has been blazing a colourful trail for some time now, by virtue of its exclusive tweeds each season. These are especially woven for this firm and feature bold colours and patterns, in wool cloths that may be made up into suits and jackets, as this three piece suit with an orange window pane check.

The firm was taken over earlier this year by Roubi l'Roubi, better known as a couturier in the women's field. He is still in the process of making some changes, though the key figures of Peter Smith, as manager, and Patrick Murphy, head cutter, remain.

As one of the most famous of Savile Row houses, with an illustrious list of past customers, it now has someone at the helm who is a highly skilled craftsman himself and who is absolutely thrilled to be running this star name.

Interestingly, another green style from Andy Kapetanos is seen here. Green traditionally has been little favoured in menswear, apart from in the country sector, but these examples show the green shoots of a new acceptance.

Andy has built up a considerable reputation in the US, especially in the movie and opera worlds, and goes back and forth across the Atlantic. These major commissions keep him pretty busy but he also finds time to make tailored outfits for ladies.

From the top, Davies & Son, Kathryn Sargent, Charlie Allen, Charlie Allen, Benson & Clegg, Huntsman and Andy Kapetanos.