IT'S ALL IN THE DETAIL

The art of bespoke is all in the detail. Infinitesimal variations in pattern cutting, in putting the parts together, in the fitting room changes, in sewing techniques and pressing applications, all these and much more go into the bespoke tailor's striving for perfection.

From the moment the shears first cut into that expensive virgin cloth to the final appraisal by the customer in a fitting room mirror, the truly bespoke article has undergone a concentrated gestation that sets it quite apart from flattering but ultimately lesser forms of imitation.

And it is in the detail that the pedigree of craftsmanship may be seen. The matching of checks, the roll of a lapel, the smoothness of an inverted pleat, the application of an undercollar, the stitches on buttonholes - all these will tell you of bespoke provenance.

The designs featured here not only give evidence of their pedigree but also show how the bespoke tailor can provide style variations that reveal his craft.

From Welsh & Jefferies comes this unusual jacket, above. It is long line, button one, with a shawl collar. The photograph doesn't quite do justice to the immaculate matching of collar stripes with those across the front pieces - but they do match up perfectly when the collar is properly adjusted.

Here again, below, the matching of the check on the collar and lapel, and across the shoulder to the sleeve head and down through the pocket is as immaculate as one would expect from Davies & Son. This is a d.b jacket with peaked lapels in the popular Prince of Wales check.

Strictly speaking, a Prince of Wales should have a brown and cream hue, as originally designed for the then Prince of Wales and future Edward Vll, instead of the blue and grey seen here. He had the large Glen Urquhart check of the Scottish Seafield estate, which is black and white, slightly adapted.

By popular usage, it has become acceptable to describe such checks as this one and other colourings as Prince of Wales. Indeed, successive Prince of Wales' have given it their blessing, as seen worn by the present Prince of Wales. And Davies & Son made just such a suit as this one for a former Prince of Wales, later the Duke of Windsor.

Overcoats have been out of favour somewhat, country waxed coats, hooded anoraks and the ubiquitous padded styles preferred for their casual practicality. But when a modern Sherlock Holmes became a TV hit last winter wearing a long, flowing overcoat, he inspired fresh appreciation of such long, enveloping styles at a young level.

Anderson & Sheppard made this grand style, which features a detailed back, with pleats above and below the half waist belt. The belt is set in, the pleats just giving restrained soft fullness, with a long vent below. The front is double breasted, with peaked lapels and cuffed sleeves.

Despite its traditional image as the home of classic, conservative dress for men, the Row's tailors have and do make all sorts of flamboyant styles for their more extrovert customers. This design, below, copies one originally created by Tommy Nutter for Ringo Starr in the 1960s, but made today by Anthony Sinclair.

Sinclair, responsible for making the James Bond style image, died in 1992 but the present day firm copied the original to show off the same skill in check contrast and edge trims.

With its wide shawl collar, edged with the shepherd check of the vest and trousers, and patch breast pocket also in the shepherd, it is a combination of tailoring skill and design originality.

When worn at a party held in the Burlington Arcade by Savile Row this summer, it attracted as much attention as when first worn in the 60s.

All of these designs show off bespoke talent - without, of course, being in any way show offs. That wouldn't be Savile Row.