PLACING BETS AT HUNTSMAN

By day, a picture of quiet Savile Row tradition; by night, the tailoring setting is rolled aside to transform the hallowed establishment of Huntsman  into  a poker den for dedicated players.

This is not some alarming moonlight addition to augment tailoring activities, but an evening’s entertainment in aid of a good cause, due to take place at Huntsman late in 2009.

“We will have green baize tables and professional croupiers,” explained Poppy Charles, marketing director of Huntsman. “Around 30 players will be taking part and no money changes hands, so it is perfectly legal. Each puts £200 in the pot  and all proceeds go to children’s charity ‘Facing the World.”

Two earlier evenings have been tried and such has been their success and popularity with key poker players among Huntsman’s customers, that this third one is to be staged, with the chance for some lucky punter to win a Huntsman suit.

“The players have been incredibly generous on the earlier occasion,” said Poppy. “And it is a very worthy charity, bringing children to London from all over the world for life saving and life changing operations.”

THE GLAMOUR PUSS IS PURRING

Huntsman was the glamour puss of Savile Row. “We used to watch the cars and the people arriving,” says present-day Huntsman head cutter, Patrick Murphy, who trained with Alan Bennett across the road. “They were always the grandest cars, the most glamorous people.”

This was in the days when the legendary Colin Hammick was head cutter at Huntsman, and ultimately managing director. After his retirement in 1993, the grand old firm gradually went into something of a decline, with management changes that culminated in a particularly sad period as it moved into the  21st century (see footnote).

But now, after new management took over in 2004, Huntsman is once again a bustling beacon of bespoke at its best, with a good team under the affable general manager, Peter Smith, and a full order book.

Famous for its exclusive tweeds, the firm has just received its latest batch of colourful designs, woven for them in Scotland; it has sent out its first promotional brochure to customers and press; and it has taken delivery of a particularly special, high quality cloth, Opus, pictured below , one of the most luxurious ever to be produced.

This comes from a bale Huntsman bought at auction inAustralia, of an 11.9 micron,1PP graded wool, judged to be the finest 1PP wool ever produced. Spun and finished into a cloth like molten silk for Huntsman, it is available in a 10 and half ounce weight, plain navy or a discreet navy herringbone.  It is quite sober, does not shout about its illustrious beginnings but the wearer will have the satisfaction of knowing he has the best, at a cost of around £15,000 for a suit. And as there was only enough for 34 suits in total, of which 5 have already been made, he will know that he is one of a privileged minority.

“It follows our policy of providing a complete history of a suit, right from sheep to finished garment,” said Poppy Charles.

The classic double breasted business suit, above, points up renewed interest in db styles ( see also Style p6) and incorporates the high line of the Huntsman style.

Peter Smith (pictured here, far right, with Patrick Murphy) has seen the old firm - 160 years old this year - go through its vicissitudes and is very happy to report that it is now on a firm footing once more, with an enthusiatic and talented young team. Head cutter, Patrick Murphy, is another happy man, to have gained the position he has in a tailoring house he so admired when he started training. "Its a privilege - and a responsibility," he admits.

After training at Davies, he also spent time at Dege & Skinner before joining Huntsman, where his father used to work. He says the Huntsman style is instantly recognisable - "one-button, a high line, flush to the chest, then cut away, so elegant". But whether for this iconic style or any other demanded by customers, the Huntsman name is bringing in the glamorous customers once more.

*For an insider's view of the Huntsman workrooms of the past, go to the book review of Richard Anderson's 'BESPOKE - Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed' on Style p3,