THE MEANING OF BESPOKE IN TECHNICOLOUR

Try finding such colourful, individual and stylish garments as the ones pictured here among the serried ranks of made-to-measure and designer men's clothes on sale in fashionable shops.

You won't be successful for the simple reason that it is not commercially viable to stock such. Navy, black and grey, as anyone knows, are the staples for menswear, in minor variations of the classic suit style, and it is only in the bespoke world, where the customer bespeaks what he wants, that such wonderfully exclusive garments as these will be made to fit the body.

That is what bespoke allows and it is a pity that this point didn't emerge in this summer's adjudication on use of the 'bespoke' term by the Advertising Standards Authority.

The case was referred to the ASA after a series of advertisements by a company based in Savile Row but which has its suits manufactured elsewhere and not to accepted Savile Row bespoke standards. The ads offered a “bespoke” suit service but this was contended on the basis that the suits in question are actually made in Germany after one initial fitting and are not made exclusively by hand.

Above a flambouyant frock coat made for Guy Hills, whose company Dashing Tweeds supplied the cloth, a 16oz weight, to tailor Russell Howarth. Left, classic tailoring married with a distinctive check by Huntsman. Below, a colourful check in a jacket with tab collar detail, from Maurice Sedwell. Bottom, another bright style for Guy Hills, this one made by Davies & Son.

Not surprisingly, the ASA did not uphold the complaint. Though Savile Row craftsmen may define bespoke as referring to a suit cut and made by hand, dictionary definitions are various, and more importantly, the man in the street does not necessarily associate the term with a hand cut and sewn Savile Row item.

In its ruling, the ASA noted “that both fully bespoke and made-to-measure suits were "made to order" in that they were made to the customer's precise measurements and specifications, unlike off-the-peg suits.  We considered that customers would expect a bespoke suit to be tailored to their measurements and specifications.  We considered that the majority of people, however, would not expect that suit to be fully hand-made with the pattern cut from scratch.  We concluded that the use of the word "bespoke" to describe the advertised suits was unlikely to mislead.”

It is a nebulous term that does not lend itself to legal requirements. The only way for Savile Row’s tailors to safeguard their craft from those who would hang on their coat tails is for them to establish their own registered brand logo and definition. This would be available only to vetted tailors, could be displayed in windows, and used to promote true bespoke standards – and not be restricted to those on the Row.

This was what we produced and presented to tailors, when this magazine was in its previous print version a few years ago. It was well received then but now, however, there are two bodies representing the tailors. And even if the two were to agree on a single logo, the rub remains the cost of promotion.

It is perhaps this, the prominent advertising taken by the offending non-bespoke house, at not inconsiderable expensive in national and regional newspapers, that prompted the tailors' ire.

But to true bespoke tailors, and to aficionados of the real thing, the genuine article is unmistakable. And the garments shown here illustrate just how original and eye-catching that may be, as well, of course as being beautifully made. The ASA understandably failed to appreciate that.