BEHIND THE SCENES - A TAILOR'S TALE

MASTER TAILOR REVEALS SECRETS OF THE BACKROOM IN RIPPING STYLE

Famous head cutter of Huntsman, the late Colin Hammick, was almost lost to the tailoring world when offered a job on-stage at the legendary Windmill Theatre early in his working life. He turned that down in favour of a job behind scenes, from whence he could watch the showgirls on stage , but finally opted to settle into the masculine world of Savile Row.

Richard Anderson, taken on as a junior at Huntsman by Hammick, was also nearly lost to the trade, escaping a sombre career in insurance by a whisker – well, by dint of missing his first job interview. His father, determined to ensure his son attended the next one, accompanied him to another junior position that had been advertised, this one at the august Huntsman.

Past and present head cutters at Huntsman, Anderson left, Patrick Murphy right.

‘Young Richard”, as Hammick dubbed him,  was an unlikely candidate to become a master tailor. Leaving school early with no particular qualifications nor talent for anything other than playing football, chatting to his mates and pursuing his girlfriend, he had not heard of Huntsman, nor indeed of Savile Row, and thought that his successful application to become a “Junior Trainee” must have been a mistake.

How he went on to eventually become head cutter himself, the youngest in Huntsman's history, and then to launch his own tailoring house in 2001 is told in rollicking style in his autobiography , launched at a splendid party at his Savile Row premises this autumn.

Unlike any previous books devoted to the Row, this personal tale of one lad’s rise through the forbidding ranks of tailoring to achieve the peak of success is an entertaining as well as informative read that reveals the hidden workings of this tailoring mecca.

There are anecdotes about such star customer as Gregory Peck, Rex Harrison and Katherine Hepburn,  and other notables. But really it is the nitty gritty, the ‘below-stairs’ gossip about the star tailors and the tailoring fraternity, the archaic practices and, at the heart of it all, the technical essence of fine tailoring that makes this a must-read book for anyone who appreciates the perfection of a Savile Row suit.

At the party,right, Charlotte Rampling with customer Fred Seidel; below, Roland Hurni-Gosman wearing one of Anderson's signature patchwork tweed jackets.

Anderson gives the lowdown on the frantic pace of work, the rivalries and eccentricities of  those engaged in creating these impeccable clothes. He describes the talented and colourful characters who put him through gruelling years of training, who made him strive for perfection.

And along the way, there are explanations, in layman language, of technical requirements and fitting techniques and delightful cameos of customers and staff, interwoven with revelations about Anderson’s personal life and his development from a humble gofer to the apogee of the tailoring craft – the master cutter.

The only criticism of the book is that it deserved some illustrations. But perhaps that will be rectified in Anderson's next effort, now that he has discovered a talent for writing as well as tailoring.

Published by Simon & Schuster, price £14.99, ISBN No 978-1-84737-454-7

SHARP SUITS AND THEIR MAKERS

Just as English has become the language of the international business world so English suits have become the uniform for any man aspiring to business success. Not necessarily English-made suits, of course. But suits of a style refined and perfected by English tailoring houses.

Eric Musgrave’s impressive book, Sharp Suits, provides a timely examination of this phenomena, charting its creation, establishment and on-going appeal, with a wealth of splendid photographs that will be a delight to suit aficionados everywhere.

Musgrave is a former Deputy Editor of Menswear, and an established and respected writer on men’s style. And he has brought to bear his long experience in the field to cover all aspects of the suit's appeal, from sober classic to outrageous extrovert.

The suit is all things to all men, and this book shows its chameleon ability to cover all tastes. The elegance of classic is epitomised by Cary Grant, quoted as saying “ My father used to say ‘Let them see you and not the suit. That should be secondary.” At the other extreme are Zoot suits, Elvis Presley and Ziggy Stardust.

The influences of Italy and France and America are given generous acknowledgement, with illustrations of suits from a cavalcade of famous designers.

Suits for different occasions from the 1910s, above, and below the iconic figure of Patrick Macnee from 'The Avengers' TV series of 1960s.

But it is the personalities that shine here, the men that have motivated changes and inspired others. From Edward Vll as the leading royal style leader, through showbiz stars such as Cary Grant, David Bowie, Sean Connery and Brian Ferry, to the makers themselves in Tommy Nutter, Ralph Lauren, Armani, Tony Sinclair, Pierre Cardin et al, Musgrave spotlights how each has put his on stamp on the suit's evolution.

This lavishly illustrated volume by a dedicated follower of suit fashion is the answer to those who claim that the suit is outdated, who suggest that casual wear is the way ahead.

Each generation brings its own influence to bear on the suit, while T-shirt and jeans remain much the same for successive generations. And, whether in the sombre business model or the flashiest celebrity effort, this book shows that there is nothing like a suit to suit a man.

Published by Pavilion Books, price £25, ISBN 978-1-86205-852-1