DON'T SPOIL THE SUIT FOR A HA'PETH

Spoiling the ship for a ha’peth of tar: An expression that may well be applied to the mismatched accessories all too often seen spoiling the best of Savile Row’s art. The tailors, of course, do their best to advise but though they may be sound on the etiquette of what goes with what when and how, they may lack, frankly, the style element that should complement a suit from the Row.

Where shirts are concerned, top tailors all offer a bespoke service. Not surprisingly, plains, classic stripes and unobtrusive self patterns are most popular but these are perfectly well provided in ready-to-wear ranges. With the luxury of choosing a shirting from the extensive selections that a good shirtmaker can offer, something a little brighter, a trifle more original, slightly more detailed can provide a fitting accompaniment to the usual classic suit.

The late Editor of Tailor & Cutter and Savile Row-Style, John Taylor shocked shirtmakers at Hilditch & Key when he specified that a bold black striped shirting should be used so that the stripes ran horizontally rather than vertically. But they approved the result (see left, worn as an evening shirt) - and it also disproved the fact that a big man should never wear horizontal stripes.

Master shirtmaker, Robert Whittaker, may be seen in action at Dege & Skinner, his work table at the back of the showroom.  Just like the tailor, he takes personal measurements, makes an individual pattern and incorporates any modifications or details the customer may require.  There’s a wide selection of shirtings from which to choose, covering cotton poplins, oxfords and sea-islands in 2-fold 100s and 140s. The minimum order here is of four shirts, prices starting at £142.50 each plus VAT, depending on cloth chosen. Left, one of their shirts with discreet tie.

Jermyn Street was traditionally the centre for shirtmaking but alas, many of its illustrious names are now reduced to ready-made selections not even made in Britain. This is not the case with Hilditch & Key, who have been shirt makers here since 1899, so should know what they are doing.  All their shirts, both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure, are made at their Scottish plant by a team of skilled workers,

It should be noted that in shirt making, the term made-to-measure means bespoke, whereas in tailoring  it means a garment made where an existing standard pattern is adapted to a customer’s measurements. The bespoke suit is, of course, made from a pattern cut entirely for the individual. That’s a great difference that is, not surprisingly, reflected in the price. Just to complicate things further, custom is the American term applied to both bespoke shirts and suits.

At Hilditch & Key, measurements are taken and a sample shirt made.  The customer is asked to wear and launder this two to three times. Then, if any adjustments are needed, they are made to the sample. Only then is the full order made up, a minimum of 6 shirts required, priced at from £165  each.  The sample shirt takes approximately six to eight weeks, the rest of the order taking a further six to eight weeks. Two of H & K's bright options, with sober ties.

A number of quality clothing shops have opened in and around the City to cater for City businessmen.   One of these, which makes bespoke shirts, is Susannah Hall’s shop on Clerkenwell Road.

The brighter colours and fun accessories on show here are designed to attract the fashion tastes of the young City boys – but sober and restrained cloths and clothes are also available. Her displays illustrate how one of her bespoke suits may be teamed with eye-catching but elegant shirt, tie and pocket handkerchief. Right, a bright tie emphasises the gingham colour.

There's an extensive range of quality shirtings to choose from, in wonderful colours. Her made-to-measure shirts start at £100 and take around 5 - 6 weeks for completion. www.susannahhall.com

JUDGE A MAN BY HIS SHOES

It used to be said that you could judge a man by his shoes and Tricker's, the top name in hand made shoes, provides a particularly good character baseline.

The company has been making hand made shoes in Northampton since 1829, and has managed to maintain its traditional skills, whilst adapting to modern marketing - a feat that alas, all too many old Northampton shoe names found impossible. An initial pair of bespoke shoes will take around 8 months to completion, and cost from £850. With the last made, future pairs will not take so long. www.trickers.com

The three Tricker's styles shown above reflect the basics required for a man's shoe wardrobe - a leather and a suede brogue, and the black calf Oxford.