PORT FROM BEFORE THE DISASTER
PORT - an English gentleman's drink. This is not to say that other nationalities do not appreciate this fortified wine but its development is very much based upon English taste and encouragement from its early beginnings to today.
A visit to its heartland, appropriately enough the city of Porto, brings home its English antecedents, as well as providing a journey into a particularly beautiful part of Portugal. Sailing along the Duoro valley from Porto, on one of the cruise ships that ply this river, the name of famous ports appear blazened high across quinta port buildings along the way, a testament to the English input - Graham, Dow, Taylor, Croft, Cockburn, Sandeman, Taylor, and more.
Port aficionados will be well acquainted with the fact that it was trade with England in the 17th century that first established port wine. English wine buyers were sent out to find good, rich red wine, and to preserve the wine during its long journey to England from Portugal, it was fortified with brandy. This made it stronger and sweeter - and English gentlemen liked it.So much so, in fact, that increasing numbers of the English wine buyers started buying up the vineyards and settling along the Duoro valley.
Presentation box of Taylor's very special vintage port from Berry Bros,
Today, descendents of those early port wine enthusiasts are still there, still very much concerned with the production of fine ports. One such is Taylor's, part of the Fladgate Group that also encompasses Croft and Fonseco ports, the present owners direct descendents from the founders of 1692.
A visit to their estate along the valley is a rare treat for any port enthusiast. At its heart is a lovely old house that has all the attributes of an English country manor home. Recognised as one of the top names in the valley, Taylor's offers some of the most covetable ports on the market, with a very special one just launched for this season.
This is Taylor's 1863 Single Harvest Port, fittingly presented in a bespoke crystal decanter in a polished wood casket. 1863 is regarded as the last great port harvest before vineyards across Europe were decimated by phylloxera, a tiny insect that consumes vines. This particular port has been aged in the wood for a century-and-a-half, and in this presentation box is available through Berry Bros at £3,000. It is to be hoped that it will be snapped up by those who wish to drink it rather than those just looking for an investment.
The 'Spirit of Chartwell' vessel, abaove, on which the Queen travelled on her Diamond Jubilee, now refurbished as a cruise ship by Ace Cultural Tours, with week-long cruises of the Duoro from around £2,300. www.aceculturaltours.co.uk
In Porto itself there is scope for quite a port crawl, as all the producers have lodges here. But a cruise along the Duoro, perhaps on the very boat that the Queen used to travel the Thames on her Diamond Jubilee, provides opportunites to visit the estates and also to see the most beautiful scenery. Still blessedly free of tourist hordes, this region is almost one of Europe's undiscovered corners. It is easy to see how those early English wine buyers were beguiled into staying.
DEMAND CORKS AND SAVE THE FORESTS
Drinkers are putting some of the world’s most important forests at risk. The widespread switch to screw tops for wine means cork forests are in danger of being destroyed – and with them the wide diversity of wildlife that lives in them. What is more, the cork industry has employed some 100,000 across the Mediterranean alone, and the cork itself is obviously more environmentally sound than metal or plastic screws.
So, demand corked bottles, or rather, a bottle with cork stopper, and enjoy the contents safe in the knowledge that you are helping the planet.
And to help the home grown wine industry, seek out English wines. Contrary to some belief, there are fine wines produced here, particularly whites, which have been winning international awards.
For the festive season, find Bacchus, a white with less than 1g residual sugar – so might be seen as healthy - at £10.15 a bottle. This comes from Brightwell, a family owned winery in the Thames Valley that produces brandy as well as wines, from hand picked grapes. And for a good fizz, there’s Hattingley Valley Classic Cuvee 2011 at £29.99 or their Kings Cuvee 2010 at £65.
MAKE MINE A DOUBLE
The 'Double Scotch' hamper brings two of Scotland's great products together - Glenfiddich 'Malt Master' whisky and H. Forman & Son smoked salmon.
Both are family-owned businesses with long histories and international appreciation. There is two-and-a half pounds of salmon included with the bottle of malt. Price £124.95. Go to www.formanandfield.com for details and to order.
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