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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

THE FUTURE IS GETTING BRIGHTER

AS we emerge from the huddle of winter, from the chrysalis of protective apparel, blinking into the bright light of Spring, so a desiremarchblake.jpg to shuck off dreary dark clothes in favour of something a little brighter is as natural as the birds and the bees.

Too many men still stifle this impulse, conditioned by all those years of  dark and formal uniform. But freer spirits are indulging in the sort of colourings and patterns that will make heads turn and horses stare. Go on, give in to it, and take a leaf out of the sort of designs featured here.

Gresham Blake, based partly in Brighton and partly in London’s fashionista hot spot of Spitalfields, devotes his latest promotion to numbers that once would have sent a traditional tailor apoplectic.

Brightly patterned suits, shorts suits, abstract patterned jackets, bar striped sports jackets all illustrate how far we have come from the sober sides of yesteryear. Though these may be seen in a ready-to-wear context, he is more than happy to provide similarly extrovert materials for his bespoke creations.

With such alumni as Ray Winstone, Richard E. Grant and Steve Coogan  among his fans/customers, he attracts those who want originality – though he is equally at home with the kind of classic dark business suit that even the most eccentric of dressers continues to appreciate.

Check out his website, quite marchdavies.jpgone of the best, at www.greshamblake.com 

Alan Bennett is one of Savile Row’s most respected tailors, steeped in the classic craft of the Row, and rescuer of many an old tailoring name. Yet for all his traditional training and pretty conservative (small c) persona, he has made suits and shorts suits in the brilliantly coloured and patterned cloths of Dashing Tweeds.

For those who don’t know of Dashing Tweeds, it creates wonderfully colourful cloth designs, produced in British mills, and has just opened its first shop on Sackville Street, just around the corner from the Row. There’s a fine collection of ready-to-wear here as well as accessories and of course the cloths.

Alan Bennett is the man who made the first shorts suit for Dashing Tweeds director, Guy Hill, as well as a variety of other equally eye-catching outfits. Here, he has used a fine silk cloth for this immaculately tailored, double breasted style.www daviesandson.commarchpearse.jpg

John Pearse has a peerless pedigree as an originator, starting way back when at Hawes & Curtis, and going on to be the supremo at the iconic ‘Granny Takes a Trip’ shop in London’s Kings Road during the 1960s. A somewhat frantic lifestyle followed, here and in the US, before he settled down to doing what he does best, fine tailoring with an edge, at his discreet shop in Soho.

He  likes to create funky designs and show them in his window, where they certainly catch the eye – as this brilliantly coloured jacket. Some may be bought as ready-to-wear, some may provide inspiration for bespoke outfits.

He remains an individual tailor, something of an iconoclast outside the Savile Row loop, but very much of its standards. www.johnpearse.co.uk

 

 

 
 

2014

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
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contact Looking good, seeing good
   
contact Mixing drinks
   
contact Gifts for Valentine's Day
   
contact Following fancy footsteps
   
contact Living in London
   
contact Peacock's revival
   
contact Miracle on Savile Row
   
contact Dandy alive and well
   
contact Sporting Tailor
   
contact Tailors pick Hot Spots
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     

:: MOVING ::

 

LONG-TIME stalwart at Huntsman, Peter Smith is leaving to join Richard Anderson. Peter, the genial general manager, will be moving just a few doors along the Row at the beginning of May to join his former Huntsman colleagues, Richard Anderson and Brian Lishak. They left Huntsman to set up this firm in 2001.

:: LONDON LAUNCH ::

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LAUNCHING on the Row in April is the flagship store of shoemakers, Gaziano & Girling. Devoted to handmade, bespoke shoes, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling combine classic craftsmanship with innovative styling.

Since setting up their own factory just outside Northampton in 2006, they have made quite a name for themselves internationally. The Rowstore gives them their first London base to show off a new benchmade collection.

:: HEADS GO BRIGHT ::

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COLOURFUL titfers from John Pearse, to go with his colourful jackets (see left) and shirts. These are from a selection of caps at his Soho shop.

:: ON MR PORTER ::

MAYFAIR firm, Thom Sweeney, has joined the eclectic body of names featured on the Mr Porter site. The duo who run this company, Thom Widdett and Luke Sweeney, have concentrated upon bespoke tailoring up until now, since setting it up in 2007. Now, on Mr Porter, they have launched a full ready-to-wear collection, ranging over suits with a slim-cut silhouette, through softer blazers and tapered trousers.