BESPOKE FOR CHRISTMAS

The man who wants to buy his lovc a stunning pair of earrings like these for Christmas will have to move sharp-ish. They are bespoke and take weeks to make so, bearing in mind the Christmas rush, need to be ordered now.

They were on display at the Goldsmiths’ Fair, the sumptuous feast of contemporary jewellery design that takes place at this time each year. For two weeks, dedicated collectors converge upon the suitably gilded Goldsmiths’ Hall in the City of London to see and to buy designs by top jewellers and silversmiths.

Earrings by Henn of London in Hatton Garden, in 18ct yellow gold, set with green tourmalines (31.90cts) and diamonds, hand engraved and enamelled. This particularl colour is unlikely to be available, as it is very rare, but other colours are. Around £54,000.

From slender chains and delicate charms to outsize rings and chunky necklaces, and tableware and ornaments, the pieces on display represent the very best of craftsmanship, all with the hallmark of quality.  After the first week, a second batch of 90-strong designers replaces the first, all selected by the Goldsmiths’ Company and each showing individual, original pieces.

These designes manage to craft hard metals and stones into essentially fluid, delicate and meticulously intricate pieces that are works of art as much as jewellery and silverware. In such company, it is hard to stand out but some manage to combine craftsmanship with a dash of humour and maybe intrigue.

Beth Legg weaves a spell with silver strands, making them look like ribbon, for chunky bracelets and necklaces. She beats the silver thin, then cuts ribbons, then treats some more. Daniel Gallie uses wax to build around stones, cast in silver or gold, for sculptural shapes in jewellery for men and women, and also for belt buckles, as above.

Everyday objects, such as paper bags and tin cans and packets, are transformed into silver vases and ornaments with quirky humour by Rebecca Joselyn - her vases shown right.  And more fun is evident in Bryony Knox’s collection, taking inspiration from fabled figures for a variety of silverware objects, many with enamelled and gilded detail. Her silver decanter top of a Mad March Hare is below.

In the glamourous jewellery field, outsize drop earrings certainly stood out. Henn of London makes handmade jewellery for individual customers, showing pieces that may be worn in sets. The hammered gold designs of Disa Allsopp offer a more modern, rugged look, set with chunky gemstones. In contrast, Janet Barber specialises in delicate, intricate designs, particularly inspired by flowers and leaves made in gold.

And just to show that fine jewellery doesn’t have to be in precious metal, Emmeline Hastings creates stunning chunky pieces in Perspex. Information from www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk