By Jane Sandwood
By Jane Sandwood
An exciting new national qualification for the fashion and textiles industry has been launched. The Level 5 Diploma in Bespoke Tailoring will provide learners with the practical skills and knowledge needed within bespoke garment production and the luxury garment market to work as a highly-skilled tailor and/or cutter.
Combining the heritage of bespoke garment production with key production skills and cutting practices, this specialist qualification will give learners the opportunity to develop industry-relevant knowledge and demonstrate high levels of speed, accuracy, precision and consistency.
The qualification comprises of one mandatory unit followed by a choice of specialised pathways in tailoring and/or cutting. Learners will build knowledge of textile brands and standards while developing superb customer relations, in addition to advancing in disciplined processes such as hand stitching, finishing and pressing.
A handbook to support this apprenticeship is available to purchase. Email firstname.lastname@example.org to reserve a copy.
An exciting new national qualification for the
Award winning sportswriter Malcolm Folley gets under the skin of motorsport’s most fabled race in his new book, Monaco – Inside F1’s Greatest Race. The book is not a conventional history but rather a companion of stories and shared memories from those most intimately associated with Monaco such as Sir Jackie Stewart, Niki Lauda, Damon Hill, David Coulthard, Ross Brawn, Martin Brundle, Nico Rosberg and many more, including the most unlikeliest winner of all, Frenchman Olivier Panis.
The entrance to the Automobile Club de Monaco is located on Boulevard Albert 1er, barely 100 metres from the first corner of the circuit, Sainte-Dévote. In the foyer is a portrait of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II and his wife, Princess Charlene; indeed, portraits of the ruling monarchy are omnipresent throughout the principality. Poignantly, before you reach the ground-floor restaurant, there is a painting capturing the alluring beauty of Prince Albert’s mother, Oscar-winning actress Grace Kelly, which is a reminder that her marriage to Prince Rainier III, in front of the world’s media in April 1956, elevated the monarchy of Monaco to the global stage as she became Princess Grace.
Beyond the reception desk is a corridor leading to the library. On the right-hand wall is a photographic gallery of winners of the Monaco Grand Prix. A photograph of the late Ayrton Senna is prominently displayed, his rightful privilege as the man who has won a record six times on these streets. Another man whose history is reflected on this wall of fame is Niki Lauda, a victor twice. The careers of the men overlapped as Lauda neared the end of his pre-eminence in the paddock and Senna made his introduction.
Lauda recalls their earliest encounter as though it occurred yesterday. He was in pursuit of his third world championship – with McLaren then – after winning two titles for Ferrari. Senna was in his first season in Formula One in an uncompetitive Toleman. Only Senna knew – knew for certain – that greatness beckoned. It was 1984: in this scene Lauda is Big Brother.
“I was on a quick lap on Thursday . . . and I came round a corner to find Senna driving in the middle of the road,” says Lauda. Back in the pits, Lauda went in search of Senna. His question to the young Brazilian was typically brusque. “Are you one of us?” he demanded.
“What do you mean?” replied Senna. Lauda explained the fundamental requirements – and respect – expected from a new arrival on the most elevated stage in motor racing. “You can’t sit in the middle of the road in qualifying,” said the Austrian. He had a manner that did not invite debate.
Senna was unusually self-assured, though. “Niki,” he said. “This is the way I am.”
Lauda left without another word. In qualifying on Saturday, he knew his moment would arrive. “I did my quick lap and stayed out,” he said. “I was looking in my mirrors and waving drivers through. Then I saw Senna approaching from out of the tunnel. I stopped my car in front of his. After Senna stopped I took first gear and went. In the garage I waited for him to come to me this time. He did.”
Senna began to make his feelings known, when Lauda interrupted him. “Ayrton,” he said. “That’s the way I am.”
The Austrian, these days a driving force behind Hamilton’s acceleration to greatness with Mercedes, has never compromised his individuality in a sport that long since surrendered its personality to corporate conformity. Lauda has never been measured for a team uniform. “Senna had a belief that he was right, but I told him that I could do the same if that is what he wants,” he explained. “From this moment, we never had a problem.”
To trace the winners at Monaco, from Juan Manuel Fangio to Stirling Moss, to Graham Hill and Jackie Stewart is to follow a lineage of motor-racing aristocracy which runs through the labyrinth of these streets to the barons of the sport these past 40 years: Lauda, Prost, Senna, Schumacher, Alonso, Hamilton, Vettel and Nico Rosberg, all world champions bar Sir Stirling, and all multiple winners at Monaco.
Hamilton always claims to feel the spirit of Senna infiltrate the soul of his driving when he is negotiating the swift changes of elevation, and tight, twisting corners around the harbour after screaming on the rev-limit through the artificial light of the tunnel. The first of his two victories, in 2008, the last win in Monaco for the once invincible McLaren team, evoked an outpouring of emotion from Hamilton that perhaps will never be surpassed no matter how many times he wins the world championship.
Monaco mattered because of Senna, yes; but, more, because of its historical significance to all who have driven a Formula One car on these streets normally governed by a 50kph speed limit, or less.
Michel Ferry is a link to the past and more pragmatic present in Monaco, where a Grand Prix has been held uninterrupted since 1955. Beside his desk in the inner sanctum of the ACM is a photograph of him with Prince Rainier, and another with his son Prince Albert II. Ferry, aged 72, a silver-haired, debonair Monégasque, who is Commissaire Général of the Monaco Grand Prix, has held office within the ACM since 1962.
He recalls with fondness the days of Stirling Moss, who won three times on these streets, and Graham Hill, who wore lightly the epithet Mr Monaco, given him for winning five times between 1963 and 1969. “It was another time, a different way of life, a lot of fun,” says Ferry. “Every night there was a big party with the drivers. Graham was at the Hotel de Paris on Friday and Saturday nights. Drivers were playing cards and drinking.”
Stewart and his wife, Helen, were an exception, says Ferry. “The couple were very close with Princess Grace,” he explains. “They were received at the palace and stayed there, more than once, during the Grand Prix.”
In contrast, the late, colourful James Hunt never knowingly missed a party in the Seventies. Remembering them was another matter. “James smoked drugs – everybody knew that,” says Ferry. “Lots of girls were around. The access to the track was free. You could approach the drivers, you could touch the cars. It is finished like this today: the cars arrive in the pits and the teams close the doors. Today you need to ask ten people to apply for a pass!”
For some years it has been evident that the only people not partying in Monaco until after the flag has dropped are the drivers. With car manufacturers Mercedes, Ferrari, Honda and Renault investing at least $1 billion in Formula One between them, that is the least surprising factor of Monaco over a grand prix week.
Each year the armada of ocean-going yachts and floating palaces that motor into the harbour becomes larger and more ostentatious. Often these boats are registered in tax havens. It is rumoured – but never openly admitted – that oceans of money exchange hands to claim a prime berth on the quayside during the grand prix weekend. It is the race every Formula One driver most wants to win; and for those with power and influence it is the race to be seen at.
Celebrities from down the ages, including Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Bing Crosby, The Beatles, Sylvester Stallone, George Clooney and Brad Pitt, have been seduced by this motor race by the shores of the Mediterranean.
As veteran broadcaster and PR executive Tony Jardine suggests: “Monaco is the glittering prize because everything associated with Formula One is epitomised in Monte Carlo: boats, champagne, success and excess.”
Monaco: Inside F1’s Greatest Race by Malcolm Folley is published in hardback by Century, available to buy from Amazon or any good book store now, priced £20.00
[caption id="attachment_4252" align="alignleft" width="300"] Malcolm Folley with
Gino Russo, a master barber who plys his trade at Truefitt & Hill, the world’s oldest barber shop, in St James’s, London, tells Savile Row Style about his rewarding job
First of all, Gino, can you tell me how you qualify as a master barber?
Experience is the key when it comes to becoming a master barber. For me it all began when I was 12 years old and had returned home from a trip to my local barbers. I was so disappointed with the service I received – and very much to my mother’s dismay – I took the kitchen scissors to my locks and treated myself to a complete restyle. It was the day I vowed never to visit a barber again and that I would learn everything I could about the art.
In 2003, I opened my own salon in my home town in Romania. I hired the best barbers I could find and set up business. I was the most inexperienced in the shop, and each haircut I did took twice as long as my co barbers. They all took me under their wing and, before long, I was the best barber in town. I wanted to keep learning so I sold my business and headed to London to seek a job with the oldest barber shop in the world. Now, 15 years into my career, eight of which have been looking after the finest gentleman in London, I still get so much joy out of each and every haircut.
What do you particularly enjoy about your job?
Each day brings so much variety. I have the opportunity to be creative as each customer is a new canvas. I meet such a huge array of different people, all with their own interesting stories and experiences, and yes, they do like to tell me about their holiday plans. Nothing beats a satisfied customer. Knowing that your work has brought such a smile to a client’s face is so very rewarding.
How has male grooming developed in recent years? What have been the big changes?
Barber shops seem to come in and out of fashion. In recent years, we have experienced a big boom in the industry. Every time barber shops come in to fashion, it’s like a rejuvenation, as the demand is there and the technology gets better and better. The hair styles also change. As we progress through different eras, people’s ideas of style become so much more varied. For example, I often have requests for styles inspired by James Dean and Paul Weller! David Beckham is also a regular hair style icon.
What are the main mistakes men make when it comes to their grooming?
One of the biggest mistakes men make is heading to see their barber with the idea they can look exactly like their inspiration image, when they don’t have the same hair type, head shape or overall personal style. The best thing a man can do is speak to their barber. Tell them as much about their lifestyle as they can and listen to the advice given. A good barber will always try to achieve the client’s desired cut but should always offer what they feel is best suited to the type of hair the client has.
What advantages do you think good grooming gives a man?
When a man looks good on the outside, he feels good on the inside. And it’s that inner confidence that enables him to put his best foot forward. Good grooming should be part of every man’s daily regime.
How should a man’s approach to grooming change as he gets older?
This is really dependant on how a person’s hair ages, its thickness and its colour. I am a firm believer in growing old gracefully and highlighting your better bits. There are a number of things you can do as you get older – embrace the greys, they show a man has had a life full of experiences. For hair that’s thinning, a man can always follow in Prince William’s footsteps and go short. Or he can have a haircut that works with the thinning areas instead of against. Male grooming doesn’t need to take a back seat with age, it should be fully embraced.
If a young person asked your advice about following your trade, what would you tell them?
I would tell them never to use kitchen scissors on their hair! But seriously, it is a great industry to work in. We are a family of artists and we are only getting more creative. I feel like there is so much more to come from this industry and it’s an exciting time to embark on a career. Men are becoming more and more aware of their appearance and always want to look their best. They are also very loyal; a number of my clients are still those I first looked after when I joined Truefitt & Hill.
Truefitt & Hill was established back in 1805. Tell us a bit about its history and its famous clients.
I am very proud to work at a company with such rich history. Truefitt & Hill has been of service to many who have shaped the history of the world including William Gladstone, the Duke of Wellington, Sir Winston Churchill, and Field Marshal the Viscount Montgomery of Alamein. Many other legendary figures from the world of the arts and entertainment have also enjoyed the Truefitt touch, including Charles Dickens, William M Thackeray, Lord Byron, Oscar Wilde, Beau Brummell, Alfred Hitchcock, Laurence Olivier and Danny Kaye as well as the celebrated John Wayne, Frank Sinatra, Stewart Granger, Fred Astaire and Cary Grant.
Gino Russo, a master barber who plys
Robin Dutt’s brilliant interview with fashion icon Pierre Cardin is the centrepiece of another splendid edition of Savile Row Style Magazine, which has just been published.
Also in this edition is all the news from the Row, including how Henry Poole helped with the making of the Darkest Hour, the Winston Churchill film tipped to win all the awards, how Maurice Sedwell’s Andrew Ramroop won a top British business honour and the inside story about the staff buyout at Davies & Son.
Tom Corby and Michael Parkinson remember that legend of Savile Row tailoring, Doug Hayward, while Cindy Lawford recalls five famous Savile Row tales.
Award-winning sports journalist Malcolm Folley looks at the glamour of the Monaco Grand Prix while Savile Row tailor David Ward recounts his cycle across America.
Read all this – and more – HERE
Robin Dutt's brilliant interview with fashion icon