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Robert Bright, the man who  founded the Golden Shears back in 1974, has died, aged 89.  In announcing the news, Rear Admiral John Clink CBE told members of the Merchant Taylors’ Company: “It is with a heavy heart I bear the sad news that Liveryman Mr Robert John Bright MBE has passed away. Robert was a much loved member of our fraternity and died on 26 December.

“Robert joined the Company by Redemption in May 1987. He immediately was involved in re-establishing the links between the Company and its historic trade. He was elected to the Livery in 1990. He created the Golden Shears Awards, which champions the tailoring trade and celebrates outstanding new talent from across the UK.

“Robert is best known as a pillar of strength in the Trade, and as a grantee of a royal warrant of appointment to HRH the Duke of Edinburgh. His legacy in the City is impressive. He was chair of the Golden Shears committee from its inception and was involved in the City and Guilds committee and was chairman of the Livery Companies’ Skills Council. Robert’s vast experience and passion for the Trade upheld his values of excellence, fairness and integrity; he was a shining example of all that is best in a Merchant Taylor and our thoughts are with his wife Jean and their family.”

There will be a full tribute to Robert Bright in the next edition of Savile Row Style Magazine.

Robert Bright, the man who  founded the

Do make a visit to any major gallery or even costume display (if you can find one) and look at the 18th century section, advises Robin Dutt. They are certainly silent lecture halls. You may be certain to see portraits of well-dressed gentlemen at home in their drawing rooms resplendent in silk and satin or out hunting in sturdy thorn-proofs and ‘Pinks’. Period clothes on anonymous mannequins still show the character of the look which lent a sense of occasion to those dressed for evenings of elegance. But pay closer attention and you just might see elements of classic ‘undress’ – ‘loungewear’ of three centuries ago. It makes more than a difference when compared to our contemporary boxers and bare feet look many sport, because they can’t be bothered. And Zoom sessions have only increased this slovenly approach. For what the desk hides, no one can chide about.

Elegant contemporary undress in the capable hands of New & Lingwood, Jermyn Street stalwarts, takes the form of glossy silk dressing gowns and sleek pyjamas finished with velvet slippers, embroidered to perfection – or left stoically plain. Some Drawing Room Dandies might want to top the lot off with a circular smoking cap in velvet plush with tassel – even if they don’t partake of a Gitanes or amber flakes stuffed into an Applewood bowl. Rewind, cinematically and you see a young Dennis Price in ‘Kind Hearts and Coronets’ wearing a house gown with such sartorial aplomb it almost hurts one’s inability not to pull this look off. No. Not almost…

New & Lingwood has much in plain silk (cotton for every day) but their signature looks include their florid peacocks and almost military, piratical skull motifs. The latter you can buy emblazoned on socks and washbags too. Many will plump for navy or blacks, greys or moss but those with a penchant for deliberately lurid (in the best possible sense) hues will marvel at the selection of clashing and harmonic ruby, teal-petrol, grape purple and ice blue colours, the silk threads reflecting light, whether that of sundown, a candle flame or roaring fire.

Sport one for any future Zoom meeting you just may have to be part of and you might say that you will have much on your side.

New & Lingwood’ s pyjamas from c. £275, silk gowns from c. £895.
0800 083 5102

Do make a visit to any major

Book Review – ‘Bacon in Moscow’ By James Birch, with Michael Hodges

By Robin Dutt

James Birch is one of the most original and maverick gallerists and curators in the country and very possibly the world. A big claim, perhaps but knowing him for some 35 years or so, and witnessing his shows, displays, performances and ‘happenings’, I am confident that no one will be able to refute this. He it was who championed a then unknown Grayson Perry and hosted the artist’s ‘Sardine Cinema’ at the end of the King’s Road, where the object was to cram as many souls as possible into the space of this once Victorian domicile turned art space? For those who saw the flickering flick, who can forget Perry’s ‘A Pucker-Lipped Cow’ (Yes, yes…’Apocalypse Now’). Then there was Jennifer Binnie riding practically naked to the gallery on a white horse, a la Lady Godiva. I seem to recall she had a bit of silver netting about her. She and another Binnie sister or two once also strapped/sellotaped themselves, naked to a vintage Rolls Royce and cruised down Cork Street in its art hey day, at one of the street’s then annual summer parties.

So, it will not come as a complete surprise to learn that Birch’s book is a memoir/document celebrating a most unusual event in Russia – the unveiling of a Francis Bacon retrospective at the Central House of Artists, Moscow in 1988. Bacon’s unique depiction of the human (especially male) body has always caused controversy but garnered also the praise of eminent critics and of course the young. But this project was so typical of James Birch. I had been a guest at an event (call it a tableau vivant?) where jazz maestro George Melly was playing a game of cards with some ‘nuns’ and seemingly lost each hand and removed layer after layer of clothing until he got down to his wizened underpants. Rather yellow and grey. He lost another hand which meant the removal of said pants to reveal a small, wizened willy. It’s all in the name of art, you know… Birch is a magnet for such affairs and people and a dalliance with the seemingly bizarre – but of course full to bursting with art credentials – is his style. One might say that he more than recognises and appreciates originality – especially when controversial.

And so this book about Bacon reminds just what a shock the master must have caused all those decades ago in a Russia, nay Soviet Union, which had not much (if any) time for eccentricity or flouting convention. And little time for Western values, one might add. I remember encountering Bacon one twilight in Soho, his eyes living coal (probably on his way to the Colony Rooms), his hair jet black from boot polish. He it was who famously intoned at a do – ‘Champagne for my real friends, real pain for my sham friends’.

Birch with Michael Hodges have assembled archival photographs, transcripts, copies of telegrams and also hilarious quotes from Russian artists, gathered from the visitor’s book, about the whole Bacon experience. It is also an important document recalling Soviet-Western relationships at the time before Russia emerged as the eagle she was under the Tsars and now is again. These quotes from fellow creators range from the sublime to the plainly lost in translation. ‘Bacon’s vision! Why is it so horrible?’ ‘Speaking frankly, this exhibition depressed me.’ and ‘ I would like to ask artists: “Haven’t we got anything better to show than this daub?” As ever, Bacon divides opinion and thought, as this lively text recounts.

It is, at once the work of Birch’s creative spirit and a mischievous one at that, who had to brave convention, hostility, the possibility of any kind of positive reception – and all this, under the eyes of the KGB; And just before the fall of the Berlin Wall. This gives the book an immediate and important time context.

Grayson Perry himself says of the book, that it is ‘a rollicking cultural adventure…fascinating and true.’ This is a fast-paced and informative read for anyone interested by revolutionaries – of every kind.

Published by Cheerio. £20 (Hardback)

Book Review - 'Bacon in Moscow' By

Book Review – BALRAJ KHANNA – Born in India Made in England

By Robin Dutt

Balraj Khanna is one of the most tireless and enthusiastic painters working in Britain today. His art, frequently featuring dancing motifs (seemingly anonymous shapes, yet full of life) on hyper colour backdrops, are celebrated around the world and many comparisons have been made with master abstract painter, Joan Miro. In both cases (and with also, say, Kandinsky in mind) Khanna seeks to create symphonies out of his canvases, scores and music sheets too which contribute to the flow and mellifluous nature of his oeuvre. Carol Jacoby of Tate Britain refers to ‘his strong intellectual base’, his style ‘at once distinct, personal and universal’. Bryan Robertson calls him ‘one of the most distinguished artists working in England’.

Much has been written about the very real connection between the Indian subcontinent and England, for many Indians, seen as a type of maternal figure. This aspect of respect, of course, did not come without certain disagreement, dissention and downright hatred of a conquering nation expressed by many – and few would, especially today, argue with that. The conflicts, massacres (on both sides), mistrust and distrust are items of historical reference material but still vivant and fresh, amidst much change and development.

This book is described as an ‘Autobiography of an Artist’ and if the first word inevitably involves the real essence of a journey, then one comes more than close to Khanna’s intention to set all down on paper. He’s a striking, elegant man, tall, sartorial and imposing, with snowy white hair and a ready laugh and smile which is more than memorable. You know when he walks into a room. Look at pictures of him as a young man at one of his openings and that man, defying time, is still there today.

Khanna grew up and witnessed the cataclysmic Partition of India in 1947. He went on to be a Foreign Correspondent between 1971 and 1972 during the India-Pakistan War. He began his love affair with England as a young child falling for the charms of the richness and poetic possibilities of expression – even in everyday prose. And then, returning to his work, are not his treasured motifs, apart from notes on a score, letters or ‘characters’ on a multicoloured page, telling a sensual and sensuous story? This love of the English language was the cornerstone (along with British culture in general) for his decision to come to London in the bitter winter of 1962, which many still remember – a time of ice and smog – where, as a ‘foreigner’ it cannot have been an easy task to simply merge with the day to day of being. Khanna has much to say about this. But an artist, in general, has only his work that he regards and understands as important. The minutiae of life’s little ironies and direct brickbats (forget the bouquets) are as nothing when you create other worlds within a new one.

Khanna with his infectious charisma made a superb start in England when at the age of only 28 he was invited to have a solo show at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford and has had several private and public shows, notably at the Hayward Gallery, Serpentine Gallery, Victoria & Albert Museum and Brighton and Hove Museum. He has had a lifetime of lecturing at such august establishments as Oxford and Cambridge Universities and the Royal College of Art. As a talented writer, his novel, ‘Nation of Fools’ was awarded the Royal Society of Literature’s Winifred Holtby Prize for a first novel, in 1984.

In ‘Born in India Made in England’ one learns about the equally ‘special relationship’ one might often hear trumpeted, regarding the UK and US when one considers India and the UK. The text is written from such a personal perspective that the author’s voice is tangible and real. Snippets and snatches of remembered conversation, add a directional element. You can almost hear that famous laugh of his, in some passages.

This is an energetic, funny, sad and moving tale of one of India’s sons and one of England’s treasures.

Published by Unicorn Press. £25. (Hardback).

Book Review - BALRAJ KHANNA - Born

Whilst the idea of food paired with fine alcohol may be nothing new, it is a skill and absolutely fascinating to be part of such an event, writes Robin Dutt. Two brands, Ron Abuelo, Panama and the Brandy, Vecchia Romagna were reminding all that as the winter nights draw in and the cold becomes, for most, a daily and nightly feature, the comfort of a strong, treacle or amber-hued tipple simply goes best with a roaring fire, fine cheeses or indeed, a great armchair read. Or, of course, all three.

To hear a dedicated master luxuriate in choice words and ask for thoughts and opinions about the delicate notes of the drinks is a delight and you certainly feel being part of some esoteric masterclass. It can also be quite daunting. Do you really want to shout out the notes and flavours you think might be present? A few sips – and you do! Perhaps the first drink one thinks about when considering pairing is wine. And those who know that wonderful Roald Dahl story about a manipulative TV wine expert who plays a trick on an old friend to secure the hand of the latter’s daughter, will smile at the memory – and the denouement. But of course, it need not be only wine or, indeed, champagne when it comes to pairings.

Rum may not be the choice for all but those who appreciate its fiery strength and potency, indeed, its spiciness and magnetic sweetness, will love Ron Abuelo (grandfather, in Spanish) the Award winning Panamanian Rum (established 1908) which is double-matured and the Two Oaks variety is 12 years old with a strong, smoky taste and finish which is the result of the concluding process being carried out in extra charred barrels.

Rum is an alcoholic spirit, distilled from sugar cane residues or molasses and originates from the 17th century. The event was held at Hedonism Wines, 3-7 Davies Street, W1K 3LD and as the name of this wine and spirits boutique surely suggests, it is a lavish palace of pleasure for the dedicated imbiber. After a welcoming and certainly unusual cocktail, light bites were placed in front of the hand selected connoisseurs and rotated and replaced with other treats, frequently, their purpose to unlock the mysteries of the drink.

‘There’s nought, no doubt, so much the spirit calms as Rum and true religion’, observed Lord Byron in his picaresque poem, ‘Don Juan’ and Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘Yo-ho-ho and a bottle of Rum’ even today more than hints about the drink’s masterful properties of overtaking the drinker.

There are many in the range to choose from – Anos, The Two Oaks, The Finish Collection and Ron Abuelo Centuria. And showing just how versatile Rum can be, the cocktail featured, lime juice, Angostura Bitters and Champagne. Utterly refreshing – even on a chilly day when it seems at first glance and premier sip, more suited to a summer’s afternoon. Global Brand Ambassador, Cristobal Srokowski shared his knowledge to evident enthusiasm with the journalists assembled and that knowledge is vast and stories engaging.

With similar and unapologetic potency the Brandy by Vecchia Romagna (established in 1820) was showcased at the charming eatery, Luca, near Farringdon Road. Brandy, like Rum, hails from the seventeenth century and is described as a strong alcoholic spirit, distilled from wine or fermented fruit juice. The actual name derives from the Dutch word ‘Brandewijn’ meaning, ‘burn, distill’. This variety is an 18-year old aged Brandy, finished in Armandine della Valpolicello Barrels. The makers describe the taste of its satisfying finish as, ‘intense and refined’ and there is certainly no countering this. With good humour and a lifetime’s knowledge ‘The Maestro’ regaled the assembled with tales and explanations of this beautiful Brandy and others too to distinguish one taste from another. ‘ ‘Brandy for the Parson, Baccy for the Clerk’, said Rudyard Kipling and ever the pursuer of placement in his pronouncements, Samuel Johnson wrote ‘Claret is the liquor for boys; part for men; but he who aspires to be a hero (smiling) must drink Brandy’.

Of course, the intention here is not to favour one drink over the other. Enjoy them both. They are both stealthily strong.

There are 12 days of Christmas, after all! Cheers!.

Whilst the idea of food paired with