Robin Dutt finds a wide and historic range of cuff links to suit any occasion
Robin Dutt finds a wide and historic range of cuff links to suit any occasion
In 1932, the year in which brothers Charles and Jean Stern acquired Patek Philippe, the name of the manufacture’s prestigious symbol, the Calatrava cross, was given to a watch collection. The first true ‘family’ of watches Patek Philippe had created, the Calatrava quickly became a classic and is still regarded today as the brand’s most iconic collection.
The design was inspired by the Bauhaus movement, a German school of Arts based on the belief that ‘less is more’ and ‘form follows function’. Since the purpose of a watch is to tell the time, these principles discouraged any embellishments which could detract from the hands. The result was a watch which was at once beautiful and practical. Presented in a perfectly round case with a flat bezel and simple baton dial, the art of omission in the debut model Ref. 96, came to characterise the Calatrava’s understated, yet timeless style.
The collection has since evolved into numerous men’s and ladies models, in every metal from steel to platinum, with manually-wound or self-winding movements and some with discreet additions, such as date apertures or an additional time zone. However, in its 86-year history, the Calatrava’s personality has never changed. Impervious to short-lived trends, the collection has retained its essential simplicity and quiet distinction, recapturing each new generation along the way.
Wearers appreciate the Calatrava’s unique tendency to look just right, no matter the occasion. The understated design of the watches makes them eminently versatile. No oversized protrusion on the wrist or flashy, medallion of a timepiece but a sleek, elegant watch, the presence of which is made known only with a glimpse of its lugs beneath a shirt cuff.
Perhaps the most quintessential Calatrava is the Ref. 5119G, with a distinct, ‘Clous de Paris’ hobnail bezel, a motif dating back to the Middle Ages. The signature elegance of the gold case, framing a white lacquered dial, with black Roman numerals, has made this flagship model one of the most widely known watches of all time.
Connoisseurs also have a special affection for Officer’s-style Calatravas such as the Ref. 5153J, a traditional case form used by the manufacture since the outbreak of the First World War. Distinguished by straight lugs and a transparent case back, protected with a hinged dust cover, this is a watch crafted for a twenty-first century gentlemen with a deep respect for heritage.
One of the most significant moments in the Calatrava’s history, came at Baselworld in 2015, with the release of the Ref. 5524G. This watch paid tribute to historical pioneers of aviation by endowing a Calatrava with Patek Philippe’s patented Travel Time mechanism, which simultaneously displays the time across two time-zones. At this year’s Baselworld, this inimitable watch was released in a rose gold version, for men and, for the first time, for ladies.
Patek Philippe presents two distinct faces to the world, innovation and tradition. The Calatrava collection retains its links with the companies past and continually expresses the route of tradition. It is not the manufacture’s most technical collection nor its most extravagant, but no other watches lend truer expression to Patek Philippe’s iconic and timeless style.
To view and try on these pieces, speak to in-house specialists and learn more about the unique history behind each design visit the Patek Philippe Salon at 16 New Bond St, Mayfair, London W1S 3SU.
In 1932, the year in which brothers
Tom Corby appreciates Tommy Nutter, the tailor who dressed Mick Jagger and Elton John in the latest edition of Savile Row Style Magazine.
Also in this edition is all the news from the Row, including interviews with leather goods maestro Trevor Pickett and Giles Burke-Gaffney, buying director at Justerini & Brooks.
Dege & Skinner takes us behind the scenes of creating uniforms for Prince Harry and Prince William at the Royal Wedding.
We interview John Harrison, the new creative director at Gieves and Hawkes about its autumn/winter collection.
Robin Dutt profiles the 10 best-dressed men in Hollywood history, from Gary Cooper to Sean Connery and Eddie Redmayne.
And celebrated Beatles historian Philip Norman remembers the halcyon days of Apple Corps, when Beatlemania gripped Savile Row.
Also, Tyne O’Connell on Lady Dorothy Savile, the aristocrat who gave her name to Savile Row; Helena Nicklin visits Domanies Ott, the French wine dynasty who made rose fashionable; and Tim Pitt puts his foot down in a a McLaren 720S supercar.
Read all this – and more – HERE
Tom Corby appreciates Tommy Nutter, the tailor
The Design Hotel Matterhorn FOCUS in Zermatt is like a work of art. The combination of modern architecture, genial comfort, attentive service and fascinating countryside create a special ambience. The splendid location with an unbeatable view of the famous Matterhorn emphasises the high standards that the hosts set for the hotel.
Designed by Heinz Julen, known worldwide for his eye-catching and surprising designs, the Focus focuses on unobtrusive elegance and on special attention to detail. Most of the 30 super-comfortable suites and rooms (Heinz Julen created the furnishings and lighting for the Focus) offer a view of the Matterhorn, some even from the free-standing bath tubs. While from the other rooms there is a view of the buzz of activity in the charming Valais village of Zermatt. We recommend the DOM roof suite with fireplace and balcony facing the Matterhorn.
The spacious and exclusive wellness area invites guests to relax in luxury, where all their needs will be catered for. It is very important to the hosts, that the guests are able to enjoy to the fullest their well-deserved and always too short holiday. To this end, a splendid indoor pool, an outdoor whirlpool, a saline bath, a caldarium and a Finnish sauna are waiting for the guests. A relax room with heated couches provide relaxation.
The hotel does not offer lunch or dinner, but its breakfast selection is one of the best both in terms of quality and quantity, and sets the tone of your day, whether you are skiing or exploring the mountains in the summer. A short stroll to the village centre of Zermatt gives you countless dining options.
Needless to say, Matterhorn FOCUS offers all amenities of modern hospitality with free internet access and a competent and committed hospitality. Above all, the hotel is very well located by the cable car station “Matterhorn glacier paradise”.
Phone +41 (0)27 966 24 24
Direct booking link with best price guarantee
The Design Hotel Matterhorn FOCUS in Zermatt
Savile Row tailor’s Huntsman are partnering with auction house Sotheby’s to stage its first online-only luxury lifestyle sale. Featuring an array of bespoke pieces from the private collection of Huntsman owner and financier, Pierre Lagrange, alongside commissioned new works that exemplify the Huntsman lifestyle, this collection reflects Pierre’s expert knowledge and appreciation of exquisite objects.
The sale will offer a view into the life and passions of Pierre as a custodian to Huntsman’s unique heritage, which has attracted discerning patrons throughout the ages. Curated to correlate with the different rooms in his home, the collection reflects Pierre’s enthusiasm for one-off pieces, and his talent for envisioning and commissioning truly extraordinary creations.
Amassed over several years and many continents, each item has been hand-picked from some of the world’s leading companies and artisans, and reflects the ultimate Huntsman lifestyle, from a timeless Cartier watch to cashmerelined cowboy boots, a tweed billiards table to a customised onesie in the Huntsman Burning Man print. Looking ahead to the auction, Pierre said: “From the clubroom and dressing room, to the garage and grounds, a Huntsman lifestyle can extend to each element of the home. I invite you to discover them in our exclusive online sale, where we celebrate the pieces that form the overall experience of the brand.”
Harry Dalmeny, Sotheby’s UK chairman, said: “This sale will see the legacies of two historic Mayfair institutions collide in what will be an exceptional opportunity to acquire bespoke creations from the most exclusive tailor on Savile Row. Our online-only sales have soared in popularity over the past year and we’re tremendously excited to inaugurate our first online lifestyle sale with such an esteemed partner.”
Highlights of the sale include the iconic orange smoking jacket as worn by Kingsman Eggsy, bespoke by Campbell Carey who cut the original prototype, and a pair of 18 carat gold Givenchy cufflinks designed by James de Givenchy and inspired by his uncle Hubert de Givenchy, who frequently graced Huntsman’s fitting rooms. Claret Adidas Stan Smith trainers, watches customised by Huntsman and Sea2See sunglasses embody the full Huntsman aesthetic and will be on offer to complete the look.
The Huntsman x Sotheby’s auction will run exclusively online from Tuesday May 22 to Friday June 1. All lots will be offered without buyer’s premium, and will be on exhibition in the Wemyss Gallery at Sotheby’s New Bond Street.
Click here for more details on to find out how to bid.
Image Credit: Sotheby’s/Helen Cathcart
Pictures: Custom Harley Davidson Crossbone 1600cc; Sunglasses by Sea2See
Savile Row tailor’s Huntsman are partnering with