CLOTHES WITH ATTITUDE

With the East End or more specifically the Shoreditch and Spitalfield areas of London now seen as style leading zones, it is instructive to find them embracing rather more formality than of late.

Neat dark suits, heavy overcoats, white shirts and plain narrow ties topped off by hats that might even be homburgs present something of a menacing mode. Essentially masculine, tailored, sombre, it is at odds with the somewhat effeminate menswear designs featured in recent student shows; and may be seen perhaps as an urban alternative to the neat casual styles that have something of the I-Am-a-Lumberjack look about them.

Beggars Run provides some fine examples of the genre. They are designed by Cian McAuliffe, who says "I have an honest respect for classical styling".

Based above an old East End pub and a contemporary art gallery, he is at the centre of the action, and favoured by London's art and music sectors. He has concentrated upon made-to-measure but ready-to-wear versions of these well tailored lines will be available before Christmas.

Like all clothes, the end result is achieved in the way in which they are worn, and these outfits are presented in a grown up manner on models with Attitude.

More models with attitude graced the Tom Baker show.  This rock’n roll tailor goes for a long, lean line – reflected in his own long, lean style. Perhaps his models weren’t long-legged enough, or maybe the length of the trousers was deliberate, but the end result is in keeping with the mood down in the East End – formal, edgy, aggressive. He likes leather trims, some sparkle, black.

Noone has better credentials for making hard-men  suits than Mark Powell , the Krays included in his list of earlier clients. He is a fund of knowledge on the Edwardian look and favours three piece suits with a watch chain that have Edwardian overtones. But as all true bespoke tailors, he is equally at home with lighter, more casual tailoring. This was the styling for a show in Ibiza earlier this year, where he was launching a bespoke service.

At top, a Beggars Run outfit of lean, mean black suit and coat, black homburg hat. Centre, above, long coat with mink trimmed collar and broad-brimmed hat by Tom Baker. Above right, classic three piece suit from Mark Powell, with reveres on the vest and velvet trim on the collar, stock effect at neck.

Right, striped grey flannel suit by Beggars Run, and left, three piece black brocade suit, leather trim on the collar, from Tom Baker.