SEE ENGLAND - AND STAY AT HOME

Not many grand country houses in England are founded on Pop. But that is indeed the case of a lovely old place in the Kent countryside, built by a local brewer who made his fortune through Ginger Beer.

The beverage came to be a staple of Boys’ Own adventure tales and of Enid Blyton’s Famous Five books, but before then, from around the mid-1800s, Ginger Beer was drunk in bucket-loads by adults as well as children, boosted by approval from the temperance body.  Benefitting from such widespread demand, a  master brewer in Sandwich was able to build a fine house for himself and his family, now the home of Neil and Katie Gunn.

Great Weddington suggests rather more refined taste than ginger beer, a fizz of a different complexion perhaps. Sitting on the terrace, overlooking a beautiful garden and sipping a glass of wine, its nice to think that ginger beer made this possible – but a relief that the Pop is different now.

This elegant Regency pile is but one of many similarly up-market, individual and personal homes that come under the umbrella of Wolsey Lodges, a body that represents private houses that accommodate guests.

Bed and Breakfast was once seen as a cheap and cheery alternative to staying in a hotel, but definitely not any more. Not when you can stay in a castle or a folly, a manor or a mansion, as well as the prettiest of thatch cottages, grand country houses and ancient halls, all with first class facilities.

All these and more are encompassed under the Wolsey Lodges banner, scattered throughout the UK, and offering four and five star quality accommodation with a very personal service. Guests stay in the owner’s home, with the owner intimately concerned with making sure that  they are happy and content – as indeed, we were.

We were on a mission to revisit childhood haunts in the Sandwich area, and Gt Weddington was chosen as a convenient base. But it turned out to be much more, a haven of tranquillity and elegance, with the added bonus of a delightful dog, Doodle.

The Gunns bought the house some 37 years ago and brought up their family here. When their children had all flown the nest, they made the decision to stay on in what is quite a large family home, and take in occasional paying guests – or PG’s as they were once known.  They enjoy the company and have formed close friendships with some guests who became regular visitors.

“They come from all over,” Neil explains, “UK and abroad. Some are attracted by the golf courses at Sandwich, some because their children may be at school in Sandwich, and others simply to visit the area.”

The region has many attractions. Canterbury is nearby, Dover and the gateway to Europe just down the road, and there are many historic sites, as well as beautiful countryside and the Kent coastline.

Sandwich is a particularly attractive small town,  with higgledy-piggledy streets of medieval houses. It is one of the Cinque Ports that were established in the 12th century to defend England, now two miles inland due to silting, and by no means just an ancient outpost.  The Royal St Georges Golf Course (left) is an international draw, while sailing, a local nature reserve, and some  fine old hostelries ensure it gets a steady stream of visitors.

It also has the distinction of being the first place in England to see an elephant.  One stepped ashore here in 1255 as a present from the French king. On its ponderous walk towards London, it was attacked by a bull that clearly didn’t like being upstaged. It  was, say the records, “thrown by the elephant and killed outright”.

From the delights of Sandwich, we moved on to Deal, a seaside town that is said to be one of only two in the country that has a seafront  untouched by modern development. It seemed a singularly dreary town, with nowhere to eat and no obvious attractions, apart from fishing. It could certainly benefit from being touched.

So we headed for Margate, a favourite destination of Londoners for  over 250 years. Its kiss-me-quick reputation as a seaside resort, coupled with the  fun of its Dreamland funfair, has been taken up-market somewhat with the opening of the Turner Contemporary Gallery two years back. The artist went to school in the town and continued to visit and paint here throughout his life, so the gallery commemorates this association – but not necessarily with many of his paintings.

A more curious place is the Shell Grotto near to Margate, an amazing underground labyrinth discovered in 1835.  A Mr James Newlove was digging a duck pond when a hole opened up in the ground, into which he lowered his young son Joshua. It seems a somewhat cavalier treatment of a young son but anyway, he emerged safely to tell of tunnels covered in shells.

Ever since, controversy has raged as to the origins and age of this amazing find, featuring millions of shells with strange symbols. Visitors continue to venture into its tunnels and central chamber today, as they did from when Mr Newlove attracted his first paying customers. It is a particular delight for children.

“My grandchildren absolutely love it,” Katie Gunn told us. “They said it is the best thing ever.”

Back at Gt Weddington, we enjoyed tea on the terrace, a walk with Doodle, and then a fine meal prepared by Katie. A nightcap beside the roaring fire – no flaming June outside – then off to a warm and comfortable bed, to sleep the sleep of the righteous after a long day.

The house is beautifully appointed and full of the family photographs and knick knacks that make it a home. Though solicitious hosts, the Gunns are happily  not over-attentive, and we  were left to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet of this special place.

There are now a wide variety of organisation offering listings of good bed and breakfast places but Wolsey Lodges has been established for over 30 years, and has built up a reputation for reliability and quality. It inspects each property before adding it to its repertoire, taking account not only of its attractions but of the personal welcome offered by the owners.

With around another 130 properties throughout the UK, and a few in France, touring them all could provide a new version of the Grand Tour, a splendid programme for visiting all corners of the UK. It might have to take a year or two but where quality and personal service are concerned, who wants to rush? MS

For details on other lodges go to www.wolseylodges.com