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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

LONDON'S SWINGING AGAIN - IN TAILS

London swings again but not to the 1960s  tunes. Now, the vibes of the 1920s, 30s, 40s are resonating about town, attracting young and old tailscouple.jpgto dress up, turn up and strut their stuff.

A quick search online reveals a cornucopia of such evening occasions, promising introductory lessons on the lindy hop, the charleston, quickstep and other such steps for tripping the light fantastic. After any lesson, the main event kicks off, some with groups, some with big bands, some with crooners, providing the cheery, jolly tunes of the times. And up get the enthusiasts, almost to a man and a woman, no hanging back here, to tailsflapper.jpgindulge in a veritable frenzy of vintage dancing in their period costumes.

Hard by the site once famous as the Marquee Club in Soho's Wardour Street, the Floridita has live music and dancing every night, and early in April had Alex Mendham and his Big Band performing vintage dance music. Guests, many of them clearly regulars, showed off their dance expertise and their style. Most of the men were in tails, some white ties, and the ladies in the lean, slinky dresses of the 20s and 30s. There was a prize for the best dress lady and gent. It was such fun as well as stylish.

And there are plenty of other venues about town showing that a vintage revival is very much in vogue, with special clubs emerging to cater for enthusiasts. The Candlelight Club is tailsmark.jpgone such, devoted to organising Roaring Twenties evenings and preparing for a rush of 1920s interest as the latest 'Great Gatsby' film was launched in May.

Elegant dancers at top and flapper above, as seen at Candlelight Club events. Right, Mark a professional dancer in tails from Pure Class, photo by John Sinclair.
Below, Leonardo DiCaprio is the latest to play Gatsby in the film to be released in May.
Below right, an immaculate white tie and tails suit from Ede & Ravenscroft. At bottom, a professional dancer's tailsuit by Pure Class Bespoke. And bottom right, a shawl collared dinner suit from Timothy Everest.

"We have a series of Great Gatsby events happening around the launch of the movie," Nige Carlos of Candlelight reports. All are held at venues kept secret until just before the date, all lit by candlelight, and all dedicated to the 1920s jazz age tailsgatsby.jpgand the prohibition era.Partygoers are expected to dress to impress in vintage style, and a list of suppliers of suitable clothes and hairdo's is provided on their website www.thecandlelightclub.com

Savile Row may also prepare itself for a rush of interest in evening tails. Just as it might have seemed that tails had been pretty well allocated to Ascot and weddings, this revival may call for skills that have been languishing in quite a few houses. They will undoubtedly rise to the occasion, but customers need to bear in mind that a fully bespoke Savile Row set takes time.

For those keen to look the part soonest at 20s parties, there are made-to-measure and vintage alternatives. Kent Haste & tailsede.jpgLachter is one that offers made-to-measure tails as well as bespoke, while www.savvyrow.co.uk is a good source of authentic vintage outfits.

Given that a bespoke set in the Row would set a young clubber back by quite a few thousand pounds, those keen to embrace the professional level dancing may feel an investment in a professional tail suit is worth it and at a rather more reasonable price.

Mark Plant of Pure Class Dancewear has been a professional dancer for 35 years and a professional dance tailor for over 25 years. His suits are designed for the needs of the dancer and sell all over the world.

Pure Class trousers may seem a tad full for current fashion, some suits may have no linings, but they are fully bespoke, and tailored exactly to fit the energetic requirements of a dancer.

tailspro.jpg“We have developed some very particular cloths for our new suits,” says manager Andy Brown. “They are stretch cloths, woollen with 6% lycra content, and a fantastic microfiber cloth with a satin inner face that takes the place of the lining. Both of these have a one way stretch which allows the back line to be kept tensioned and clean, and means the suit moves much better with the dancer."

The company is based in Staffordshire, and sources most of its cloths from Yorkshire, as well buttons and other requirements. "If we cannot find a product that is made in England, " says Brown, " we will either get it made for us or make it ourselves."

But they have a completely gobal reach when it comes to selling and attending dance competitions, Mark Plant one of the top internationaltailseverest.jpg adjudicators. This means they have built up a very personal service, geared to the needs not just of each dancer but to particular dance sectors as well.

So, when next watching those dancers gyrate on TV, you will appreciate why their pants don't split at the seams or their jackets bulge at the neckline. They have been bespoken for the dance. wwwpureclassbespoke.com

 

 

 
 

2013

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief
   
contact Cuba - not rushing to change
   
contact Tails win in new London Swing
   
contact Savile Row success in New York
   
contact Keeping the City in trim
   
contact Rolls goes on trial again
   
contact Dandy show in U.S.
   
contact Formal shoes go brighter
   
contact Many Shades of Colour
   
contact Boris leads the way
   
contact Culture - London fizzes
   
contact Poole's Citizen Kane
   
contact

Going colourful - carefully

   
contact

Japan's fine whiskies

 

 

contact Compendium - Links to the best brands and services
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
   
contact Archive - Back Issues
 
     

:: DRESS-UP LEEDS TOO ::

 

 

IT isn't just in London that boys are starting to enjoy dressing up once more. In Leeds, a new ready-to-wear brand has been launched to cater for demand from teenagers and young men wanting to dress to impress their girlfriends.

'Johnny Tuxedo', with a launch on St Georges Day, is the brainchild of Austen Pickles, who perceived a gap in the market.

tuxedo.jpg

This pale young man with a 1920s aura wears a shawl- collared Johnny Tuxedo design. The range of dinner suits and tuxedos is stylish, reasonably priced and aimed at 16 to 25 year olds.

Pickles points to recent changes in Hollywood that have helped encourage young interest in smart dressing. "The red carpet has certainly shifted its focus in recent years from its single-minded obsession with frocks," he explained. "The boys are no longer letting the girls have it all their own way." www.johnnytuxedo.co.uk

:: FIZZING SHOES ::

NOT the sort of shoe from which to sip champagne but that didn't stop Piper-Heidsieck sponsoring the launch of Rupert Sanderson's latest collection of such exotic footwear.

tailsshoe.jpg

At his shop in Mayfair, a celebratory party was held early Spring, while the dark days of Winter were still with us, to show off a collection that was high on heels and low on practicality. But what the heck, what shoe designer worries about walking now?

Piper-Heidsieck provided plenty of their excellent fizz. It helped encourage a vista of when boots could be shed and tootsies exposed in such shoes as these. Savile Row grass widows will find them conveniently placed in Bruton Place, not far from the Row. www.rupertsanderson.com